Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

head torquing issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-20-2011, 05:51 PM
  #1  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
nazztman4739's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Martinsburg wv
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default head torquing issue

i torqued my heads yesterday according to specs 22 lbs first pass 90 degrees second and 90 3rd 50 final ok the problem is the first pass didnt make it pass 45 degrees whats the final torque number
Old 03-20-2011, 06:00 PM
  #2  
Restricted User
iTrader: (12)
 
z99ls1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 1,794
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

That doesn't sound right
Old 03-20-2011, 06:26 PM
  #3  
Staging Lane
 
ct06gto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=3
Old 03-20-2011, 06:36 PM
  #4  
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
 
speedtigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 8,826
Received 50 Likes on 32 Posts

Default

I see some that say 22 then 90 then 70 and some that say 22 then 90 then 90 again. So, which one is correct?
Old 03-20-2011, 07:04 PM
  #5  
TECH Resident
iTrader: (11)
 
CNTLSE 1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Charleston Illinois
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I just did mine torqued to 22 then 90 and 90 except for numbers 9 and 10 which is 50 instead of the last 90. Same way I did my last heads with 0 issues
Old 03-20-2011, 07:09 PM
  #6  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
sman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by CNTLSE 1
I just did mine torqued to 22 then 90 and 90 except for numbers 9 and 10 which is 50 instead of the last 90. Same way I did my last heads with 0 issues
Done 3 sets this way on 2 different motors, works fine every time.

Make sure you have the bolt holes clean! No coolant or anything in them, liquids dont compress, and you WILL break a bolt, theres several threads on here right now where people broke bolts.
Old 03-20-2011, 07:43 PM
  #7  
Staging Lane
 
ct06gto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by speedtigger
I see some that say 22 then 90 then 70 and some that say 22 then 90 then 90 again. So, which one is correct?
My helms book for my 06 gto (ls2) says tighten the m11 bolts 1-10 to 22lbs, then a second pass to 90 DEGREES, then a third pass to 70 DEGREES. Then tighten the m8 bolts 11-15 to 22 lbs.
Old 03-20-2011, 08:32 PM
  #8  
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
 
speedtigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 8,826
Received 50 Likes on 32 Posts

Default

This is what I have read most too.
Old 03-20-2011, 08:55 PM
  #9  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Camaroz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 1,713
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Straight From AllData for a 01 SS


First Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 22 ft. lbs.

Second Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 90 degrees

Final Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 90 degrees
Note: Excluding the Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head

Final Pass M11 Medium Length Bolts 50 degrees
Note: at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head in Sequence

M8 Inner Bolts in Sequence 22 ft. lbs.
Old 03-20-2011, 09:23 PM
  #10  
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
 
99slobird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: tuscumbia al
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by sman
Done 3 sets this way on 2 different motors, works fine every time.

Make sure you have the bolt holes clean! No coolant or anything in them, liquids dont compress, and you WILL break a bolt, theres several threads on here right now where people broke bolts.
I sa your lucky if you break a bolt ..... I cracked the block instead
Old 03-20-2011, 09:27 PM
  #11  
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
 
speedtigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 8,826
Received 50 Likes on 32 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Camaroz
Straight From AllData for a 01 SS


First Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 22 ft. lbs.

Second Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 90 degrees

Final Pass all M11 Bolts in Sequence 90 degrees
Note: Excluding the Medium Length Bolts at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head

Final Pass M11 Medium Length Bolts 50 degrees
Note: at the Front and Rear of Each Cylinder Head in Sequence

M8 Inner Bolts in Sequence 22 ft. lbs.

I don't know anything more credible than AllData. Texas speed told me 90 & 90 too.

I always hate when there is conflicting information out there.
Old 03-21-2011, 05:07 AM
  #12  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
vettenuts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Little Rhody
Posts: 8,092
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts

Default

Depends on the year, later cars have equal length bolts if I am not mistaken. Do you have the service manual for the year of motor that you are working on?
Old 03-21-2011, 09:11 AM
  #13  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
 
01ssreda4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,240
Likes: 0
Received 79 Likes on 70 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 99slobird
I sa your lucky if you break a bolt ..... I cracked the block instead
I ripped most of the threads out of one hole....not fun

Originally Posted by CNTLSE 1
I just did mine torqued to 22 then 90 and 90 except for numbers 9 and 10 which is 50 instead of the last 90. Same way I did my last heads with 0 issues
This is the way my Haynes says to do it, and thats the way I have always done it.
Old 03-22-2011, 05:12 PM
  #14  
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
 
speedtigger's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 8,826
Received 50 Likes on 32 Posts

Default

I just went by the dealership and had my buddy pull it up on AllData. We looked up a 2004 Cadillac Escalade Vin Code "N". (LQ9) The specs were:

22lbs
then 90 degrees
then 70 degrees

Since I saw that with my own eyes on the most credible source that I know, that is what I am going to use to torque mine unless somebody makes me aware of something that I did not account for.

Edit: From what I understand, in 2004 they changed the design so that all bolts are the same length (4" or 100MM). This may explain why I have found different torque specs than others who may be working on older motors with different length head bolts. All my research has been for the 2004 and newer engines with single length 4" head bolts.

Last edited by speedtigger; 03-22-2011 at 05:24 PM. Reason: New information
Old 03-22-2011, 08:30 PM
  #15  
TECH Senior Member
 
garygnu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,446
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

are you using ARPs bolts?
Old 03-22-2011, 08:52 PM
  #16  
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
nazztman4739's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Martinsburg wv
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

yes arp bolts when u torque the second and 3 time do u use a standard ratchet or the torque wrench
Old 04-12-2011, 12:57 PM
  #17  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
 
chrisfrost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: phx the cactus patch
Posts: 1,095
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 13 Posts

Default

The second and third passes are degrees of rotation (360deg a full circle) so if You don't have and are'nt going to buy an angle gauge then make 1 out of construction cardboard and put a hole at the center for You're rachet/socket . Basically a compass or protractor but bigger as to be more accurate . I would use a regular 1/2 inch rachet as the more You use a torque wrench the less in calibration it becomes especially using it in reverse to remove head bolts .....etc good luck
Old 04-12-2011, 08:15 PM
  #18  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (19)
 
ryle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Morris, IL
Posts: 607
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by nazztman4739
yes arp bolts when u torque the second and 3 time do u use a standard ratchet or the torque wrench
Hold on man... If you are using ARP bolts you could possibly do some damage if you are using the degree method. From my understanding that method is for use with stock GM Torque to Yield head bolts...

ARP BOLTS DON'T STRETCH LIKE GM BOLTS!

I have always used the torque specs on this page and never had a problem. Look under the section that says in Yellow: If Using ARP Headbolts
Old 04-12-2011, 08:43 PM
  #19  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Camaroz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 1,713
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ryle
Hold on man... If you are using ARP bolts you could possibly do some damage if you are using the degree method. From my understanding that method is for use with stock GM Torque to Yield head bolts...

ARP BOLTS DON'T STRETCH LIKE GM BOLTS!

I have always used the torque specs on this page and never had a problem. Look under the section that says in Yellow: If Using ARP Headbolts
I agree! Read the instructions that come with ARP headbolts.
Old 04-13-2011, 07:12 PM
  #20  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (11)
 
S10xGN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Port Neches, TX
Posts: 3,782
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Camaroz
I agree! Read the instructions that come with ARP headbolts.
Actually, ARP has a new web page just for instructions. Plug in your kit number and download a PDF for that kit.


Quick Reply: head torquing issue



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:37 PM.