Best heads and big cam for LS6 resleeved 441ci...4.125 x 4.125
05-17-2011, 09:16 PM
#1
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Best heads and big cam for LS6 resleeved 441ci...4.125 x 4.125 I was thinking ported LS7 heads that flow around 400cfm @ .650......
What other options would you guys suggest?
Also, what cam?
It'll be 11.5:1 and I haven't picked a cam yet. I'd like to go 660 lift and rather aggressive, but nothing ridiculous thats going to have idle issues. Gonna use a ported LS7 intake and LS7 TB. 3200 stall for street driving and roll runs only. 3:73 gears.
Thanks for the input, I'm all ears.
.
What other options would you guys suggest?
Also, what cam?
It'll be 11.5:1 and I haven't picked a cam yet. I'd like to go 660 lift and rather aggressive, but nothing ridiculous thats going to have idle issues. Gonna use a ported LS7 intake and LS7 TB. 3200 stall for street driving and roll runs only. 3:73 gears.
Thanks for the input, I'm all ears.
.
05-19-2011, 03:30 PM
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I asked about 5-6 years ago about how much lift is too much for a 100% daily driven street car. I was asking if .700 can be done and last a long time. People on here basically laughed and said no way.
So....today with whatever improvements have been developed......what is the highest lift I can go with and still have it last a long time?
So....today with whatever improvements have been developed......what is the highest lift I can go with and still have it last a long time?
05-19-2011, 03:43 PM
#6
I'd still keep it under 650 if you want it to stay together for a while. IMO, over 650 you are into solid roller territority.
I'd look at something like a 240/250 with about 6.teen lift for something you want to drive all the time. Idle will be better, vacuum will be better, general tuning will be pretty easy to do, and it should still make enough power to get into lots of trouble with on the street
I'd look at something like a 240/250 with about 6.teen lift for something you want to drive all the time. Idle will be better, vacuum will be better, general tuning will be pretty easy to do, and it should still make enough power to get into lots of trouble with on the street
05-22-2011, 01:22 PM
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I'd still keep it under 650 if you want it to stay together for a while. IMO, over 650 you are into solid roller territority.
I'd look at something like a 240/250 with about 6.teen lift for something you want to drive all the time. Idle will be better, vacuum will be better, general tuning will be pretty easy to do, and it should still make enough power to get into lots of trouble with on the street
I'd look at something like a 240/250 with about 6.teen lift for something you want to drive all the time. Idle will be better, vacuum will be better, general tuning will be pretty easy to do, and it should still make enough power to get into lots of trouble with on the street
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05-22-2011, 01:48 PM
#8
I was thinking ported LS7 heads that flow around 400cfm @ .650......
What other options would you guys suggest?
Also, what cam?
It'll be 11.5:1 and I haven't picked a cam yet. I'd like to go 660 lift and rather aggressive, but nothing ridiculous thats going to have idle issues. Gonna use a ported LS7 intake and LS7 TB. 3200 stall for street driving and roll runs only. 3:73 gears.
Thanks for the input, I'm all ears.
.
What other options would you guys suggest?
Also, what cam?
It'll be 11.5:1 and I haven't picked a cam yet. I'd like to go 660 lift and rather aggressive, but nothing ridiculous thats going to have idle issues. Gonna use a ported LS7 intake and LS7 TB. 3200 stall for street driving and roll runs only. 3:73 gears.
Thanks for the input, I'm all ears.
.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...ywheel-hp.html
05-22-2011, 04:11 PM
#9
I'd still keep it under 650 if you want it to stay together for a while. IMO, over 650 you are into solid roller territority.
I'd look at something like a 240/250 with about 6.teen lift for something you want to drive all the time. Idle will be better, vacuum will be better, general tuning will be pretty easy to do, and it should still make enough power to get into lots of trouble with on the street
I'd look at something like a 240/250 with about 6.teen lift for something you want to drive all the time. Idle will be better, vacuum will be better, general tuning will be pretty easy to do, and it should still make enough power to get into lots of trouble with on the street
Also running a ported Edelbrock proflo intake to help ot breath at 7,500 rpms.
05-22-2011, 06:00 PM
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What are you going to do for an intake? Bigger isnt always better if it cant breath. On the other hand Shawn did a pretty good job on the conservative side with this 440
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...ywheel-hp.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...ywheel-hp.html
Or a ported FAST 102 or ported LS7 intake. Whatevers best......
What do you think about using a carb style intake with an elbow...so I can keep under the stock WS6 hood?
.
05-22-2011, 08:31 PM
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05-22-2011, 08:44 PM
#13
Dual spring for sure. As for spring life, it depends what you want to spend. honestly for the $, the extreme duty gold springs from patriot/tsp/etc are a decent spring for the money. Just make sure that when they are set up, that you shim them to about .065 +/- .05 so that way they're strength at seat is bumped up a little. This will help control the heavier valves that you will likly be running.
I would, record the seat and full open pressure on them all @ assembly, and check every oil change, or at least a couple of them (intake/exhaust on each side) and continue to do this until you start seeing the pressure's fall off. There's alot of factors that will effect how long they last. how well you warm the car before driving it, how hard you are on it, how much and how often they see RPM, valvetrain weight, cam lobe, etc. This, is why I would be pretty diligent about testing the first set often, and get some type of lifespan on them.
Let's say, if you know that 18K is when you start seeing them drop off, then I would change at 15K to be safe and make that the norm, and just check every 5 to 6K, for example.
Just check the strength on them, or whatever spring you go with often on the first set, and when you see the seat pressure starting to drop off (say it's 200 @ open, and the next time you check and it's down to 150, that's a good dropoff) I would change them.
If the type/brand you use the first time don't last long, don't hesitate to go to something different, and just repeat the setup and check process. With a cam like I mentioned, say on an xer lobe, with lift in the 615/618 range I would expect to see the springs need to be changed once a year, or about every 12K. That's a guess, as I said every setup is a little different. But you get the idea.
I would, record the seat and full open pressure on them all @ assembly, and check every oil change, or at least a couple of them (intake/exhaust on each side) and continue to do this until you start seeing the pressure's fall off. There's alot of factors that will effect how long they last. how well you warm the car before driving it, how hard you are on it, how much and how often they see RPM, valvetrain weight, cam lobe, etc. This, is why I would be pretty diligent about testing the first set often, and get some type of lifespan on them.
Let's say, if you know that 18K is when you start seeing them drop off, then I would change at 15K to be safe and make that the norm, and just check every 5 to 6K, for example.
Just check the strength on them, or whatever spring you go with often on the first set, and when you see the seat pressure starting to drop off (say it's 200 @ open, and the next time you check and it's down to 150, that's a good dropoff) I would change them.
If the type/brand you use the first time don't last long, don't hesitate to go to something different, and just repeat the setup and check process. With a cam like I mentioned, say on an xer lobe, with lift in the 615/618 range I would expect to see the springs need to be changed once a year, or about every 12K. That's a guess, as I said every setup is a little different. But you get the idea.
05-23-2011, 03:55 PM
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Dual spring for sure. As for spring life, it depends what you want to spend. honestly for the $, the extreme duty gold springs from patriot/tsp/etc are a decent spring for the money. Just make sure that when they are set up, that you shim them to about .065 +/- .05 so that way they're strength at seat is bumped up a little. This will help control the heavier valves that you will likly be running.
I would, record the seat and full open pressure on them all @ assembly, and check every oil change, or at least a couple of them (intake/exhaust on each side) and continue to do this until you start seeing the pressure's fall off. There's alot of factors that will effect how long they last. how well you warm the car before driving it, how hard you are on it, how much and how often they see RPM, valvetrain weight, cam lobe, etc. This, is why I would be pretty diligent about testing the first set often, and get some type of lifespan on them.
Let's say, if you know that 18K is when you start seeing them drop off, then I would change at 15K to be safe and make that the norm, and just check every 5 to 6K, for example.
Just check the strength on them, or whatever spring you go with often on the first set, and when you see the seat pressure starting to drop off (say it's 200 @ open, and the next time you check and it's down to 150, that's a good dropoff) I would change them.
If the type/brand you use the first time don't last long, don't hesitate to go to something different, and just repeat the setup and check process. With a cam like I mentioned, say on an xer lobe, with lift in the 615/618 range I would expect to see the springs need to be changed once a year, or about every 12K. That's a guess, as I said every setup is a little different. But you get the idea.
I would, record the seat and full open pressure on them all @ assembly, and check every oil change, or at least a couple of them (intake/exhaust on each side) and continue to do this until you start seeing the pressure's fall off. There's alot of factors that will effect how long they last. how well you warm the car before driving it, how hard you are on it, how much and how often they see RPM, valvetrain weight, cam lobe, etc. This, is why I would be pretty diligent about testing the first set often, and get some type of lifespan on them.
Let's say, if you know that 18K is when you start seeing them drop off, then I would change at 15K to be safe and make that the norm, and just check every 5 to 6K, for example.
Just check the strength on them, or whatever spring you go with often on the first set, and when you see the seat pressure starting to drop off (say it's 200 @ open, and the next time you check and it's down to 150, that's a good dropoff) I would change them.
If the type/brand you use the first time don't last long, don't hesitate to go to something different, and just repeat the setup and check process. With a cam like I mentioned, say on an xer lobe, with lift in the 615/618 range I would expect to see the springs need to be changed once a year, or about every 12K. That's a guess, as I said every setup is a little different. But you get the idea.
Is .610 allot different than .616-.618 as your recommending for me?
Just wondering why I would have to check them so frequently at 616-618 and have to replace them every year?
Thanks.
05-23-2011, 04:48 PM
#15
Honestly I think your friend has been very lucky that he hasn't had a spring fail. Like I said alot has to do with the lobe that the cam is ground on. If his 610 lift cam is on an xe lobe, or something that's mild on the ramp rate and whatnot it will be alot easier on the valvetrain. But, won't make the power that he could be making.
The lift range I am suggesting, on an xer lobe say, I would change the springs on yearly, or every 10000 miles. If you went with the same lift on an xe lobe, you probably could go ALOT longer then 10000, again I would still be checking on a regular basis to determine spring life.
Your ls7 heads will also have alot heavier valve, then say an ls1 head from 6 years ago due to the size of the valve. This, is one reason you will make alot more power (bigger valve and alot mroe flow) and it's also why you need to be up on the valve spring maintenance more.
I hope this makes sense... ?
The lift range I am suggesting, on an xer lobe say, I would change the springs on yearly, or every 10000 miles. If you went with the same lift on an xe lobe, you probably could go ALOT longer then 10000, again I would still be checking on a regular basis to determine spring life.
Your ls7 heads will also have alot heavier valve, then say an ls1 head from 6 years ago due to the size of the valve. This, is one reason you will make alot more power (bigger valve and alot mroe flow) and it's also why you need to be up on the valve spring maintenance more.
I hope this makes sense... ?
05-23-2011, 05:44 PM
#16
Honestly I think your friend has been very lucky that he hasn't had a spring fail. Like I said alot has to do with the lobe that the cam is ground on. If his 610 lift cam is on an xe lobe, or something that's mild on the ramp rate and whatnot it will be alot easier on the valvetrain. But, won't make the power that he could be making.
The lift range I am suggesting, on an xer lobe say, I would change the springs on yearly, or every 10000 miles. If you went with the same lift on an xe lobe, you probably could go ALOT longer then 10000, again I would still be checking on a regular basis to determine spring life.
Your ls7 heads will also have alot heavier valve, then say an ls1 head from 6 years ago due to the size of the valve. This, is one reason you will make alot more power (bigger valve and alot mroe flow) and it's also why you need to be up on the valve spring maintenance more.
I hope this makes sense... ?
The lift range I am suggesting, on an xer lobe say, I would change the springs on yearly, or every 10000 miles. If you went with the same lift on an xe lobe, you probably could go ALOT longer then 10000, again I would still be checking on a regular basis to determine spring life.
Your ls7 heads will also have alot heavier valve, then say an ls1 head from 6 years ago due to the size of the valve. This, is one reason you will make alot more power (bigger valve and alot mroe flow) and it's also why you need to be up on the valve spring maintenance more.
I hope this makes sense... ?
05-23-2011, 06:41 PM
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Honestly I think your friend has been very lucky that he hasn't had a spring fail. Like I said alot has to do with the lobe that the cam is ground on. If his 610 lift cam is on an xe lobe, or something that's mild on the ramp rate and whatnot it will be alot easier on the valvetrain. But, won't make the power that he could be making.
The lift range I am suggesting, on an xer lobe say, I would change the springs on yearly, or every 10000 miles. If you went with the same lift on an xe lobe, you probably could go ALOT longer then 10000, again I would still be checking on a regular basis to determine spring life.
Your ls7 heads will also have alot heavier valve, then say an ls1 head from 6 years ago due to the size of the valve. This, is one reason you will make alot more power (bigger valve and alot mroe flow) and it's also why you need to be up on the valve spring maintenance more.
I hope this makes sense... ?
The lift range I am suggesting, on an xer lobe say, I would change the springs on yearly, or every 10000 miles. If you went with the same lift on an xe lobe, you probably could go ALOT longer then 10000, again I would still be checking on a regular basis to determine spring life.
Your ls7 heads will also have alot heavier valve, then say an ls1 head from 6 years ago due to the size of the valve. This, is one reason you will make alot more power (bigger valve and alot mroe flow) and it's also why you need to be up on the valve spring maintenance more.
I hope this makes sense... ?
What about spraying this thing with a dual stage 200-250 DP shot? ---Does this change everything you've posted about---
05-23-2011, 06:56 PM
#19
If you have the money for To valves, by all means yes, the lighter you can get the valve/ retainers, the better because your not working the spring near as hard at high rpms....could save alitttle money and go with hollow valves and To retainers and locks
05-23-2011, 07:37 PM
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Ever heard of the Ray Little high rev kits......someone said they're real nice kits....
Also, my builder is recommending I stay around 11.3:1 - 11.5:1 cr down here in hot south Florida. Since we have 93 octane everywhere, would going more like 12:1 be worth it for N/A driving? Also, consider I will spray a 200-250 shot and spraying will definitely be with a stand alone tank with race gas to feed the DP shot.
Last edited by needadvice; 05-23-2011 at 07:45 PM.