LS1TAUTO

iTrader: (1)

Runs really good...i wanted a nice aggressive cam where u can hear me a block away. I want adleast to be in thr high 11"s i plan on orderin a yank 4k rebulidin my rear with some moser axels i already got umi phr and umi relocation bracket got LTs texas speed duals no cats no mufflers... I understsnd a must is a ls2 timing chain and vavle springs anythin else i would need, oh and what cam should i look into?? Thanks

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

You can get a custom specd cam to your mods, or just grab a polluter or magic stick.

LS1TAUTO

iTrader: (1)

Does it cost more to have a custom one made???? Or same price?? Is my car fine to cam?? What are some things to look for when u cam ur car or things u need to make sure work 100%

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

People have put a cam in their car with 100k+. You should be fine.

A custom cam is around the same price, maybe $25 more give or take

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

i just went heads and cam with 130K on the clock. the big thing with going heads and cam on a high milage motor is to ensure that your block in is good working order. also you should replace as many parts as possible while you are in there due to the wear they have taken. for example when i swapped my cam i also changed:

LS2 timing chain
LS1 sprockets
LS7 style lifters
TSP Ported/shimmed oil pump


i also decided to go with new heads (and boy i am glad i did) cause when i pulled my old heads there was more wear then i thought. some of the valve tips were worn down, and the stock valve springs couldn't hold up an empty beer can! i could move the valves back and forth just by looking at them. i am sure this is where my tick was coming from and the drop off of power past 5k. that is the main reason i went with new heads, more power was just a plus.


just make sure you do a compression test before you tear down your motor, to make sure it is worth putting a cam in it

PREDATOR-Z

Compression and leakdown

Gunrock_T/A_0811

iTrader: (1)

Cam it and don't look back! You won't be disappointed. Hit up Pat G or talk look at any of the vendors on here. I've got 78922 on the clock and just did a cam about 1200 miles ago and car runs great.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

If your going big cam you will probably need a different size pushrod

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Are you serious?

Changing out the stockers are a must but to just say he will need a different size pushrod because the cam is "big" is a bit far.

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

Its not must first off. If you swap a small cam in your car and dont spin it high you could run the stock ones and not worry about it. If its a cam with a lot of lift you need to measure the length because its going to change. A ms4 cam is not going to keep the stock 7.4 rod. I thought this was the way it was but correct me if I am wrong

PREDATOR-Z

It has nothing to do with how high you spin it, stock prods just flex too much and mess up your geometry. Look at U-tube for spintron photography of a working setup, you'll get a visual of what happens.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

You've got a healthy stall, what do you plan on shifting at? You want a cam that makes the most average power to get you down the track the quickest

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

You change them regardless if its a TR220 or a TRex. Lift has nothing to do pushrod length. Deck height, head gasket thickness and the deck thickness of heads is what changes pushrod length.

There were guys bending them in stock motors back in the day. It was more common in the 6 speed guys missing gears.

Just for the hell of it, my buddy put in a TR224 ( which is a baby in today's LS world) back in the day with the stock pushrods. He didn't even rev it over 3500 and bent the stock pushrods.

Latch

iTrader: (8)

When it doubt, get the biggest ******* cam you can cram in an LS1.

LS1TAUTO

iTrader: (1)

I do want big cam....somthin that pulls hard to 65 or 67 watever redline would be...the heads might be pushing it kinda cuz of money, can i just port and polish these 241s if it came down to it??? How are they when u start to port and clean them up a lil??? And i gotta tick to when its cold it will be ticking a way till it warms up Also i dont mind gettin alll the lil stuff like rods rockers springs and ls2 chain

LS1TAUTO

iTrader: (1)

O and the car will be driven like 3 times a week maybe around 100 miles a week if that, so it will be driven

Latch

iTrader: (8)

I think we need a sticky in this forum explaining why bigger isn't always better. It seems like EVERY guy with an LS1 wants to put a damn TREX or MS4 in their daily driver. Then they wonder why their car drives like **** and looses to bolt-on cars at the track. Cams that have power under the curve are better than max-effort cams that live at 6,500 RPM, especially in a street car.

Double Aught

iTrader: (5)

I am doing a H/C in my car with 105k. I am not worried in the least.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

trex. bigger pushrods, as in diameter, is a sound investment when using a cam that utilizes aggressive lobes, high rpm, or both...

order a 4400 yank and trex cam. ls2 timing chain, oil pump of your choice, proper length pushrod of your choice...have fun.

jlrz28

iTrader: (7)

96k MTI A1 Cam
128k TR224
138k no problems