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Generation III Internal Engine
1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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View Poll Results: Which rod bolts to go with on LS1
KATECH ROD BOLTS!!! 14 60.87%
ARP ROD BOLTS!!! 9 39.13%
OR OTHER (Specify please) 0 0%
Voters: 23. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 01-01-2012, 09:53 PM   #1
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Default Rod bolts!!!!

Hey guys so im learning more and more about this motors, and i have come to find out that one of the weak points on LS1's are the rod bolts. So that said I'm buying some this week, but I'm debating on ARP Rod bolts, OR KATECH rod bolts.

Now the other thing MONEY is not an issue i have saved enough for both but i would like to save money if they are both equally as good. If ARP has the same SAFE margin as the KATECH ones then there is no point on spending an extra $130 Dollars on the KATECH ones. Thank you, and if there is anything else i should be looking at let me know please thanks.
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:55 PM   #2
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They say you have to have the rods resized with ARP, katechs are drop in and go. I have arp's and never had to resize the rods, ive always used arp and never had problems. Just my .02
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:37 PM   #3
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pound for pound the bold strength is the same between the aftermarket bolts. They are going to both be high strength steel with rolled threads. However, as stated in the above post you should have your rods resized and get new bearings as well. when buying the ARP bolts. but many people just forgo the resizing. I am building a motor so I just had the shop recondition my factory rods with the new bolts as everything was out of the car. IMO, ARP recommends it so I would do it.
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:46 AM   #4
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ARP- never had issues..
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:01 AM   #5
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buddy ran arp on his camaro with 439rwhp with no issues
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:25 AM   #6
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got a stock bottom end ( except with ARP rod bolts) and making 520 to the wheels. camed/6lbs of boost and water/meth. I have been told i can make 600+rwhp alot more safely with those rod bolts given the extra margine of bottom end strength they provide.I'm shooting for about 630RWHP and I'm not even scared to shoot for that since I have been beating on it for over a year with it's current setup.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:40 AM   #7
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Built LS2 402ci here with ARP 2000 everywhere in my engine (head bolts, rod bolts and main bolts) and I wouldn't use anything else..
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:06 AM   #8
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arp is good if your building an engine but if your looking to just drop the pan and do rod bolts katech hands down! this is something i will do when i swap for a new k member
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:47 AM   #9
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Thanks guys i think imma go with katech sense i have a fairly stock motor ls6 intake manifold and and ported throttle body, with a 150 shot from NOS plate kit, running through a semi-built 4l60e
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:31 PM   #10
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I had Katechs until I built my new motor, and the callies rods came with ARP so i used those. Both are good.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:19 PM   #11
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End of the day it's your choice, forged block, ARP 2000 bolts here
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:00 PM   #12
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Thank you guys... i talked to one of the guys in ARP and they said that this ones the
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/234-6301/10002/-1

are drop ins like the katech is this true or safe to do...?
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:20 PM   #13
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no they arent thats the problem arp even states that the rods should be line honed. ARP's are great fasteners but with their rod bolts the rods should be resized reason being is that since the arp's are stronger bolts they will clamp down more on the cap and may cause distortion of the cap which will spin the rod bearings. Some people have never had this happen but others werent so lucky. for 130 bucks more i wouldnt chance it. the katechs are designed to just be a drop in and go deal.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:44 PM   #14
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I have those 234-6301s in stock if you need a deal.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
no they arent thats the problem arp even states that the rods should be line honed. ARP's are great fasteners but with their rod bolts the rods should be resized reason being is that since the arp's are stronger bolts they will clamp down more on the cap and may cause distortion of the cap which will spin the rod bearings. Some people have never had this happen but others werent so lucky. for 130 bucks more i wouldnt chance it. the katechs are designed to just be a drop in and go deal.


this topic has been beat beyond the proverbial dead horse...people who start these new threads on the topic of "rod bolts" should have their account deleted.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:07 PM   #16
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come on man he has a 240sx cut him a lil slack and has been around since aug lets not get 1337ist in here.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bww3588 View Post


this topic has been beat beyond the proverbial dead horse...people who start these new threads on the topic of "rod bolts" should have their account deleted.
Im sorry for my ignorance but i did use the search button and nothing came up with good info like this... and I'am new to the LSX platform. I'am very familiar with fords, BMW, and Nissan motors but i decided to stop playing with kids toys and move to the big boys. Sorry but its always better to ask and get answers/opinions.


Thanks for does that helped out. I'am going to go with the KATECH's reason being is that i'am planning to stay around 550-600 with the nitrous so i dont think i need a tear down yet on my motor. Plans are H/C package and direct port instead of the NOS plate i have now. OH yeah on E-85 that is all i need to a 2700+/- LBS car lol

Shit the car as it sits now went 11.87 @ 118 MPH OF THE BOTTLE on bottle is a 125 shot i aiming for high 10's WITH A/C-P/S-HEATER-FULL INTERIOR- and about 60-100 lbs of tools in the trunk lol
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:33 PM   #18
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yeah the search feature on here is weird, I usually use google or yahoo and go to the ls1tech links on those best way to do it if search on here doesn't work.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:33 PM
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