Knocking after a full rebuild? Did I just spin a bearing again?
#1
Knocking after a full rebuild? Did I just spin a bearing again?
So I live in Raeford and there is no one in the area with LS1 motors so no help out here. Anyways: I have a 2000 Firehawk and was racing a RS4. Lost but kept up. I ended up spinning a bearing, bending a push rod, and notching one piston. I finally was able to build my motor after 7 months. Got it done last night and I have the same sound ish. I put new bearings, seals, rings, and gaskets. sent the motor out to get a once over. The crank got re-serfaced and i had to put 30 over bearings on the rods, and 10 over on the mains. Everything is by the books when it came to this build. I am using Royal Purple synth. 5w30. With a 60 PSI pump. Im lost....Any advice?
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#13
This is totally my opinion,
I have found out from my younger years that using the recommended lubricant as specified is a good idea. I have done a head cam change and didnt use the recommended moly type lube on the cam and wiped out my lobes on my lunati
cam. So for reassurance i will always be using recommended lubricant from now on.
Now after break in period that is when i would run the synthetic to help keep friction down. Rings are seated and bearings are mated. All is good for metal to metal contact for many miles hopefully
I also believe that all car manufac. start those motors at the factory before they hookup the speedo. i guess. somehow gm has to test that rpm limiter ! lol
I believe that any car producer will break an engine in to seat the rings and bearings. They would have alot od warranty issues with all of those crazy people
out in the world
That is MY OPINION
Maybe im highly opinionated?
I have found out from my younger years that using the recommended lubricant as specified is a good idea. I have done a head cam change and didnt use the recommended moly type lube on the cam and wiped out my lobes on my lunati
cam. So for reassurance i will always be using recommended lubricant from now on.
Now after break in period that is when i would run the synthetic to help keep friction down. Rings are seated and bearings are mated. All is good for metal to metal contact for many miles hopefully
I also believe that all car manufac. start those motors at the factory before they hookup the speedo. i guess. somehow gm has to test that rpm limiter ! lol
I believe that any car producer will break an engine in to seat the rings and bearings. They would have alot od warranty issues with all of those crazy people
out in the world
That is MY OPINION
Maybe im highly opinionated?
#14
Is your oil pressure good at idle?
You seem pretty confident about bearing clearances. Is it a knock or tick?
Did you hone the cylinder walls and re-install the origanal pistons?
Piston slap?
A fine cracked flex plate will put nitemares in your head but that was a ticking for me.
If you start the engine and put your hand on the bottom of the block you can feel a loose rod bearing. (I had too many beers one night)
Post a sound clip
You seem pretty confident about bearing clearances. Is it a knock or tick?
Did you hone the cylinder walls and re-install the origanal pistons?
Piston slap?
A fine cracked flex plate will put nitemares in your head but that was a ticking for me.
If you start the engine and put your hand on the bottom of the block you can feel a loose rod bearing. (I had too many beers one night)
Post a sound clip
#15
One more suggestion
Are you certain its a mechanical issue?
Done anything to the ecm?
Sound clip?
Be your best bet for the guys on this forum. There is some knowlegable guys on here that could guess better than me im sure
Are you certain its a mechanical issue?
Done anything to the ecm?
Sound clip?
Be your best bet for the guys on this forum. There is some knowlegable guys on here that could guess better than me im sure
#18
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (31)
I had my rods turned .030 and my mains turned .010, no problems here after multiple 7k rpms. At around 3k miles on the rebuild or more.
As long as you get the correct bearings and do the correct torque procedures, then there should be no problem.
Oh and just for knowledge, a .030 turned crank on rods on an ls1 crank makes it the exact same size as a standard SBC 350 rod bearing.
As long as you get the correct bearings and do the correct torque procedures, then there should be no problem.
Oh and just for knowledge, a .030 turned crank on rods on an ls1 crank makes it the exact same size as a standard SBC 350 rod bearing.
#19
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Doesnt have the rat-tat-tat sound of rod bearing problem and doesnt have the growling of a main bearing problem either. Typically a valvetrain problem would have more of a rat-tat-tat sound similiar to a rod knocking as the engine winds down off a higher RPM. Sounds alot more like an exhaust leak or possibly like someone else mentioned a cracked flywheel. I noticed upon revving the engine as it wound down there was exhaust smoke coming up the drivers side of the motor. A little mini cloud!
Check all the exhaust manifolds for leaks and where the exhaust connects too before you going yanking the engine apart! Inspect that flywheel/ring gear also.
I honestly dont believe to be a serious internal engine problem with the info given and what the video/audio shows.
Check all the exhaust manifolds for leaks and where the exhaust connects too before you going yanking the engine apart! Inspect that flywheel/ring gear also.
I honestly dont believe to be a serious internal engine problem with the info given and what the video/audio shows.