complementing/choosing parts for 224?
03-23-2004, 04:27 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: MO
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
complementing/choosing parts for 224? I am getting a used Comp Cams 224-224-.563-.563-112, and had a few ?s about which parts to buy with it. I know 918s are the norm but what about that manley kit on SDPC(ti retainers too?), and are the trick flow hardend pushrods acceptable? I would also like to do the dbl roller timing chain w/ oil pump at the same time too. Are the respectable SLP units worth the money or should I go with something like a rollmaster and a ported LS6 oil pump. Thanks,
Matt
Matt
03-23-2004, 04:39 PM
#2
I used and am currently using the Spring and Ti retainer kit from SDPC. I am also using their double roller Rollmaster. They are all quality looking parts and I havent had any problems with anything. Total for the spring/retainer kit and the double roller was about $250...
I used the springs for 5,000 miles with the LPE GT2-3 (207/220 .573"/.580") and I just installed a TR224 on 114...I will use them for another 10,000 miles and then check them. They are godd until .600" so you wil be fine using them...
I used the springs for 5,000 miles with the LPE GT2-3 (207/220 .573"/.580") and I just installed a TR224 on 114...I will use them for another 10,000 miles and then check them. They are godd until .600" so you wil be fine using them...
03-23-2004, 06:21 PM
#4
I used my stock pushrods because I have an A4. It is wise to swap them out if you have an M6 because it is easier to over rev if you miss a gear...which is what bends them...You can get a set of chromoly or hardened ones for about $110...
As for my oil pump, I have heard the pre-00 or 01s had problems, but I have never had trouble with mine so I kept it. You should change the little blue o-ring that is on the tube because those are where most of the problems seem to start (a tear in the o-ring). I changed that and I have never had a problem. Usually, if the pump is going to fail, it will do it before 20 or 30K miles...I'm at 50K and it is fine so I have no reason to believe it will fail. It's up to you really...if you have thge extra $$, you might as well do it...
As for my oil pump, I have heard the pre-00 or 01s had problems, but I have never had trouble with mine so I kept it. You should change the little blue o-ring that is on the tube because those are where most of the problems seem to start (a tear in the o-ring). I changed that and I have never had a problem. Usually, if the pump is going to fail, it will do it before 20 or 30K miles...I'm at 50K and it is fine so I have no reason to believe it will fail. It's up to you really...if you have thge extra $$, you might as well do it...
03-23-2004, 07:06 PM
#5
I 'm putting in the same cam, but also heads with Rev dual springs/ti retainers.
as far as the chain/pump - nobody has the Rollmaster double row as they are on national back order from Australia. I couldn't even get an SLP (same chain, expensive brand name) except from SLP at $169.00
I was advised to leave my 18,000 mile oil pump alone as long as it is functioning well.
Pushrods = ditto advice for protection upon over rev. I bought a used set of moly 7.35 to match my milled heads. 7.4 should work with stock (unmilled) heads beccause the base circle of the cam is smaller diameter than the stock cam - thus less likely to bend a pushrod.
I was also advised to change the O-ring.
Good luck!
as far as the chain/pump - nobody has the Rollmaster double row as they are on national back order from Australia. I couldn't even get an SLP (same chain, expensive brand name) except from SLP at $169.00
I was advised to leave my 18,000 mile oil pump alone as long as it is functioning well.
Pushrods = ditto advice for protection upon over rev. I bought a used set of moly 7.35 to match my milled heads. 7.4 should work with stock (unmilled) heads beccause the base circle of the cam is smaller diameter than the stock cam - thus less likely to bend a pushrod.
I was also advised to change the O-ring.
Good luck!
03-24-2004, 05:25 PM
#7
Yes...it is $5 from a dealer, and I wouldnt do a swap w/o replacing it. It's the least you should do....
Be careful when reinstalling the pump so you dont tear the new gasket...maybe rub a little motor oil on it. You will have to lower your oil pan to get the oil pump off and you will see what a bitch that oil tube is. Once you see how it all goes, it wil be easier...I recommend stuffing a rag into the oil pan so if you drop the bolt for the oil tube it wont roll all the way to the back of the pan.
For reassembly, I took the cover off my oil pump and pulled the gears out...it made it much easier to get the tube back in and the bolt in thats under the pump. Then just slide the 2 gears in and put the cover on, tq. the bolts to spec and you're done. Then tighten the oil pan bolts but be careful on the back 2...they are long and will break easy if you over torque them.
You will have to drain yur oil...
Good luck...lmk if you have any questions...
Mike
Be careful when reinstalling the pump so you dont tear the new gasket...maybe rub a little motor oil on it. You will have to lower your oil pan to get the oil pump off and you will see what a bitch that oil tube is. Once you see how it all goes, it wil be easier...I recommend stuffing a rag into the oil pan so if you drop the bolt for the oil tube it wont roll all the way to the back of the pan.
For reassembly, I took the cover off my oil pump and pulled the gears out...it made it much easier to get the tube back in and the bolt in thats under the pump. Then just slide the 2 gears in and put the cover on, tq. the bolts to spec and you're done. Then tighten the oil pan bolts but be careful on the back 2...they are long and will break easy if you over torque them.
You will have to drain yur oil...
Good luck...lmk if you have any questions...
Mike