#7 is gone! Broken ringland
#1
#7 is gone! Broken ringland
Back in October I noticed oil coming out of the dipstick tube so I did a compression and leakdown test and #7 showed to be bad. I've just recently had the time to pull the motor. (BTW I had to pull the motor from the top since I have a 4-post lift. Pretty damn easy with the QTP lift plate.)
I pulled the #7 piston and noticed some hair line cracks, luckily no damage to the cylinder walls. Once I pulled the rings, the 2 pieces fell out.
I now have the block all tore down and ready for the machine shop. My plan is to just rebuild with forged components. I wanted to go bigger but that will have to wait.
I pulled the #7 piston and noticed some hair line cracks, luckily no damage to the cylinder walls. Once I pulled the rings, the 2 pieces fell out.
I now have the block all tore down and ready for the machine shop. My plan is to just rebuild with forged components. I wanted to go bigger but that will have to wait.
- Wiseco Pistons (flat-top -3.2cc reliefs 3.905)
- Callies Compstar H-beam Rods (6.125)
- ARP Main stud kit
- Durabond cam bearings
- Clevite Main/Rod Bearings
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#8
Most likely high RPM pre-detonation. #7 is usually the first to go. Runs a little hotter & leaner. Connecting rear steam vents isn't a bad idea, but, isn't the best solution. Best solution is to use the highest flowing fuel injector in #7 location. Also, helps to reduce WOT timming a bit.
Injectors get flow tested & marked accordingly. Then, highest flowing injector goes in #7 w/ second highest in #8.
Injectors get flow tested & marked accordingly. Then, highest flowing injector goes in #7 w/ second highest in #8.