FAST 102 INTAKE is FULL of OIL ?
#1
FAST 102 INTAKE is FULL of OIL ?
I have a '72 Nova we just finished the conversion on with a LS1/Auto setup.
Now the PUZZLE.......The owner built the motor ,stock 346 block is clean,
was honed & filled with the polished stock crank & rods.
NEW Diamond Pistons 6cc dish ,topped with RHS 205 heads milled to 59cc[GM 52mls gaskets]
NEW Fast 102/102 Intake seup.
The car has started smoking ALOT with only 10 miles or so on it so we checked compresion ......ALL cylinders are 148lbs to 152lbs.Upon more searching discovered the Intake was FULL of OIL & burning it back thru the motor.So the intake was removed ,taken apart & properly cleaned & installed once again .
ALL PCV lines are routed as stock with new hose.Just to see if there was any changes we pulled the PCV line out of the routing & ran it into a catch can by itself .ALL passenger side lines to the Intake were left to the Throttle Body[front line]& Intake [rear line].
The owner drove the car home about 7-8 miles easy & the Intake was full of OIL AGAIN.The catch can from the PCV is clean & dry .I am no expert but guess the compression to around 11:1 ?Is there a need for catch cans or evac lines ?This is a first for a problem of this kind for me .Thank you for all help.
I am a proffesional conversion shop & have done many swaps ,H/C setups ect.I am not a proffesional engine builder & the owner is not either but has built his own motors in the past & is **** picky about ALL his toys.
Oh ye..the car has manual brakes for now & the vacuum port on the back of the Intake is capped off .This is also the same on my "72 SS Camaro with Fast 92/92 & no issues on my car.
Now the PUZZLE.......The owner built the motor ,stock 346 block is clean,
was honed & filled with the polished stock crank & rods.
NEW Diamond Pistons 6cc dish ,topped with RHS 205 heads milled to 59cc[GM 52mls gaskets]
NEW Fast 102/102 Intake seup.
The car has started smoking ALOT with only 10 miles or so on it so we checked compresion ......ALL cylinders are 148lbs to 152lbs.Upon more searching discovered the Intake was FULL of OIL & burning it back thru the motor.So the intake was removed ,taken apart & properly cleaned & installed once again .
ALL PCV lines are routed as stock with new hose.Just to see if there was any changes we pulled the PCV line out of the routing & ran it into a catch can by itself .ALL passenger side lines to the Intake were left to the Throttle Body[front line]& Intake [rear line].
The owner drove the car home about 7-8 miles easy & the Intake was full of OIL AGAIN.The catch can from the PCV is clean & dry .I am no expert but guess the compression to around 11:1 ?Is there a need for catch cans or evac lines ?This is a first for a problem of this kind for me .Thank you for all help.
I am a proffesional conversion shop & have done many swaps ,H/C setups ect.I am not a proffesional engine builder & the owner is not either but has built his own motors in the past & is **** picky about ALL his toys.
Oh ye..the car has manual brakes for now & the vacuum port on the back of the Intake is capped off .This is also the same on my "72 SS Camaro with Fast 92/92 & no issues on my car.
#3
Heads are NEW & I do not suspect this to be it but some new stuff is messed as we all know.It appears the oil is being pulled thru the vacuum lines off the valve covers .
What will happen if I cap off the lines leading to the throttle body & Intake ?the IAC will go nuts right along withn the idle.Is there any kind of a valve or filter supposed to be in line with the vacuum lines?Now there is just new rubber vacuum lines to the Intake & Throttle Body .
OH YE the heads do have YELLA TERRA 1.7 Fixed Rockers .
What will happen if I cap off the lines leading to the throttle body & Intake ?the IAC will go nuts right along withn the idle.Is there any kind of a valve or filter supposed to be in line with the vacuum lines?Now there is just new rubber vacuum lines to the Intake & Throttle Body .
OH YE the heads do have YELLA TERRA 1.7 Fixed Rockers .
Last edited by wantsum410; 05-07-2012 at 10:07 AM. Reason: more info
#4
10 Second Club
While my car was on jackstands waitinng on my 9" I would start it occasionally and let it idle and give it a few slight revs. One day after a week or so of not running I started it and it smoked like a dozer even at idle. I just knew I had a ring broke. I started playing with the pcv system and just for the heck of it I sprayed some carb cleaner in the pcv valve and tried it and the smoking completely stopped. Changed it the next day and haven't puffed since.
#6
It sounds like maybe the PCV vacuum and fresh air lines are installed backwards (?). The line on the valve cover should go to the port BEFORE the throttle body butterfly valve, and the line from the valley cover should go to the intake vacuum port AFTER the throttle body butterfly valve.
Take some photos or describe in detail exactly where each line starts and ends.
#7
The vacuum ports are ....2 come off the passenger side valve cover that feed the T/B & Intake .None off the valley cover.
1 line comes off the back of the driver side valve cover out of the PCV valve that ties in with the other 2 feeding the T/B & Intake.This is EXACTLY as it was from the factory .
1 line comes off the back of the driver side valve cover out of the PCV valve that ties in with the other 2 feeding the T/B & Intake.This is EXACTLY as it was from the factory .
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#9
Thanks ! Still wanna know what is causing this ?Is it because of the increased compression ?I searched alot of other Fast 102 threads but did not specifically look at 11:1 or more compression set ups .
Also how much oil is normal to be in the catch can on a regular basis ?THANKS for all the help !
Also how much oil is normal to be in the catch can on a regular basis ?THANKS for all the help !
#14
TECH Enthusiast
If your heads were ported enough, the rocker stud could leak oil if you didn't use any thread sealer. Can you see the stud coming through the intake port?
#15
TECH Senior Member
This is incorrect:
From the factory it's not plumbed like that.
This is what it's doing:
The vacuum ports are ....2 come off the passenger side valve cover that feed the T/B & Intake .None off the valley cover.
1 line comes off the back of the driver side valve cover out of the PCV valve that ties in with the other 2 feeding the T/B & Intake.This is EXACTLY as it was from the factory .
1 line comes off the back of the driver side valve cover out of the PCV valve that ties in with the other 2 feeding the T/B & Intake.This is EXACTLY as it was from the factory .
This is what it's doing:
#16
Through the valve guides or pcv?
I don't know if this relates to the specific topic of this thread, but I've experienced massive oil consumption after replacing my original pcv valve with a $2.99 aftermarket from Autozone.
I figured it was a good idea to replace it since the vehicle's got a lot of miles, and, upon immediate comparison, I noticed that the aftermarket one rattled more than the stock. I just assumed that this was because the original was clogged and put in the new one. Then immediately after several trips with a heavy load (2 other 150+ lbs passengers), the oil level went down about half a quart on the hatch in just 700 miles. This persisted with subsequent normal trips and the level eventually went down to about 1/4 on the hatch. Confounded, I inspected the pcv valve and there was a narrow stream of fresh oil. I shook it a little and rehooked it up. Then, after 2+ months of storage on a sloped ground (front end up), the oil level went back up to about third quarter mark. I thought, "OK, something's unusual here. Used oil is not supposed to come back." Then, after an oil change, there was no oil usage at all during the entire span up to the next oil change (current period). Now, I've experienced a little usage (down 1/4 quart), but seems to be holding steady after shaking the pcv valve again--though it appeared to be quite dry this time.
Thinking back and forth, I wondered if it had anything to do with the valve, because there was never ever any oil usage with the old valve. Looking around some stuff, I found the old one and noticed it's an AC Delco brand, and the opening is still nicely spring loaded, as I was able to press it with the tip of my pinky. Realizing this, I'm suspecting the higher spring tolerance in the aftermarket may be the reason for its greater internal play. So my ultimate question is: Would I be correct in assuming that the pcv valve should never be stuck open?
I don't know if this relates to the specific topic of this thread, but I've experienced massive oil consumption after replacing my original pcv valve with a $2.99 aftermarket from Autozone.
I figured it was a good idea to replace it since the vehicle's got a lot of miles, and, upon immediate comparison, I noticed that the aftermarket one rattled more than the stock. I just assumed that this was because the original was clogged and put in the new one. Then immediately after several trips with a heavy load (2 other 150+ lbs passengers), the oil level went down about half a quart on the hatch in just 700 miles. This persisted with subsequent normal trips and the level eventually went down to about 1/4 on the hatch. Confounded, I inspected the pcv valve and there was a narrow stream of fresh oil. I shook it a little and rehooked it up. Then, after 2+ months of storage on a sloped ground (front end up), the oil level went back up to about third quarter mark. I thought, "OK, something's unusual here. Used oil is not supposed to come back." Then, after an oil change, there was no oil usage at all during the entire span up to the next oil change (current period). Now, I've experienced a little usage (down 1/4 quart), but seems to be holding steady after shaking the pcv valve again--though it appeared to be quite dry this time.
Thinking back and forth, I wondered if it had anything to do with the valve, because there was never ever any oil usage with the old valve. Looking around some stuff, I found the old one and noticed it's an AC Delco brand, and the opening is still nicely spring loaded, as I was able to press it with the tip of my pinky. Realizing this, I'm suspecting the higher spring tolerance in the aftermarket may be the reason for its greater internal play. So my ultimate question is: Would I be correct in assuming that the pcv valve should never be stuck open?
#17
Theoretically, it should only be able to get into the intake via the PCV system or a leaking intake gasket. However, a friend has had the same issue on a small block ford engine for a long time now and has spent countless hours and money chasing it and still hasn't found it.
#18
The customer & owner of the car is still chasing the problem .While many are betting on a Ring issue he is sure he did a good job on his engine build.
I have done a TON of digging for him & last night questioned if he put thread sealant on the bolts after he replaced the springs from single to dbl......NO he did not .If this was enuf to cause the problem & the amount of oil we will see as he is going back to fix that.
The new RHS 205 heads from Comp did have extensive work to them & u could see the bolt holes.WILL KEEP U POSTED ON PROGRESS....
I have done a TON of digging for him & last night questioned if he put thread sealant on the bolts after he replaced the springs from single to dbl......NO he did not .If this was enuf to cause the problem & the amount of oil we will see as he is going back to fix that.
The new RHS 205 heads from Comp did have extensive work to them & u could see the bolt holes.WILL KEEP U POSTED ON PROGRESS....
#19
The vacuum ports are ....2 come off the passenger side valve cover that feed the T/B & Intake .None off the valley cover.
1 line comes off the back of the driver side valve cover out of the PCV valve that ties in with the other 2 feeding the T/B & Intake.This is EXACTLY as it was from the factory .
1 line comes off the back of the driver side valve cover out of the PCV valve that ties in with the other 2 feeding the T/B & Intake.This is EXACTLY as it was from the factory .
The other hose off the passenger side valve cover (fresh air make-up hose) should connect to the nipple BEFORE the throttle butterfly.
If that how yours is hooked up?