fastbird02

iTrader: (4)

ok i got a cam dirt cheap with 300 miles on it. specs are : 228/230 .585"/.585" 112 lsa. my 02 ws6 is bone stock besides a slp dual/dual a lid and a ftra. im picking up lt headers before the install. I also just got a great deal on PSI Maxi-Life valve springs #1511. My questions are, what should i be getting for push-rods(length or anything else i need to know.) Also what about rockers? should i keep stock ratio or go up or down? For the time being I am keeping my stock heads, (until i can afford the 1s Don at Slowhawk told me to get.) do i need anything else? I know i need a stall, but i am getting mixed advise about which 1 to get. Please don't be hesitate to dumb it down for me. Will this put me to the point where i need sfc's? I do plan to get them just don't have them currently.I know i will get them before i hook up the 100 shot. Thank you all in advance for all your help, I don't know what I would do with you guys(probably spend way more than i need to on stuff i dont need...)

-Bruce

Decadence75

iTrader: (17)

Best that you measure for the pushrods once the cam is in if you do not know the base circle or can't call to find it out. Stock rockers should be fine but I would suggest the trunion upgrade kit. I would suggest a Yank SS4000 for a stall. SFCs are never a bad thing to have. They are an essential part of any suspension build in my opinion. Don't forget new adjustable Torque Arm, LCA and Panhard while doing suspension but not necessarily needed for your mods.

jessanator

iTrader: (1)

yeah, we can't just tell you a pushrod size, it has to be dead on. Especially because its s non adjustable valveterrain...

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Is Don doing the install or are you doing it?

My suggestions:

1. The PSI springs are excellent but will not provide a high enough seat force without shimming. You may need to buy some shims from COMP to set them up properly.

2. In order to set the valve spring height you should pick up a valve spring micrometer. I would measure the cylinder #1 setup first to determine if and how thick of a shim is required, then order appropriately. You can order a kit, but it is more money and you likely won't use them all.

3. Stock rockers should be OK for your setup.

4. Pick up a container of Redline Assembly Lube, it dissolves quickly when oil hits it and will prevent a dry start.

5. Where did you get the used cam? Inspect it very carefully for any inperfections. Also, with the local weather we are having make sure you keep the cam well coated in oil to prevent rust prior to installation. Not sure about Attleboro but down on the south coast you can cut the humidity with a knife.

6. Pick up an adjustable pushrod and measure for the length once you get the cam in the motor. If you plan correctly, you can finish buttoning up most of the motor while waiting for the pushrods to arrive. There are a couple of local sources if you need them quickly.

7. Have Don do a baseline dyno before you start so you can track the improvements.

fastbird02

iTrader: (4)

Starting to think im getting in over my head, i was going to do it myself but im starting to think maybe not...

Decadence75

iTrader: (17)

Don't be intimidated by it all. If you have a decent amount of common sense and the tools, you can do this yourself. I will be doing a cam change along with oil pump, timing chain, pushrods and trunion kit myself next month.

I would call the company that ground the cam and ask them the rod length needed with stock heads.

Here is a good walkthrough if you need some direction.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23