NorcalDiablo

So the LS1 has sat for a number of years. I got it in the kit car I purchased.

I want to turn it over to see if it is free and how it spins.

Can't really pull the distributor on it! :-)

So how do you prime the oil system without turning the engine?

Any other suggestions?

02_Orange_D1SC

iTrader: (27)

go to your local home depot or lowes and get a cheap garden sprayer you'll have to get a fitting also for the oil pressure port in the back of the motor its been awhile since ive done one so off hand i cant remember the size of the fitting but your local hardware store should have one. then fill the garden sprayer about half full with your choice of oil and pump until you see oil coming out the pushrods.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I used the garden sprayer technique. I highly suggest using the port by the timing chain. If you dump oil into the oil pressure port, you are bypassing the filter (bad if there is a contaminate in your oil or pressure device.

The AN fitting and reducers are about $20 from Summit. M10-1.5 and -4 and -6 AN

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

OP I dont mean to hijack your thread. but just curious if there is a writeup or a link to this sprayer technique??

CattleAc

iTrader: (7)

Sprayers work good...

I have converted a couple of these empty R-134 tanks to pre-lube tanks...

They're a little more durable.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Wal-Mart Garden Sprayer
-4 AN Female with barbed end
-4 male to -6 AN female reducer
-6 AN Male to M10-1.5

About $30 all said and done....

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

Thanks! Im trying to visualize this. Im assuming this port is visible when the timing cover is off right?! or is it located outside the cover? forgive me its been awhile since i did a cam swap and dont recall ever priming oil..

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

No, its on the outside of the block on the driver side towards the front.

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

Thanks for the post and pics!
OP hopefully all this info has helped you as it did me.

NorcalDiablo

Thanks guys! I will check it out tomorrow. I have just about wrapped up my intake rotation and getting ready to fire it!

NorcalDiablo

HEY! I was just thinking (OK, trouble there!! ) Could I use this location also for relocating my pressure sending unit? I have to move it for the intake rotation.

02_Orange_D1SC

iTrader: (27)

interesting i didnt know that the oil pressure port on top behind the intake manifold bypassed the filter good to know

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

I would just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over with the starter. (I am assuming this kit car is in working order.)

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Not on an F-body, The alternator blocks the location.

For the other post, I wouldn't spin the engine over unless you know the bearings are fully coated with assembly lube. With the pump, I was able to achieve 25psi.

3rdCoastPowerSports

iTrader: (5)

you can turn it over with the starter for a few seconds at a time (ignition and fuel system disabled of course) until you get pressure then fire it up. Best is to use a pre lubber though. The one in the picture would work great and I like the inventiveness. I personally use the Kentmoore Pre Lubber (looks a lot like the one a few posts above).

Syclone0044

I searched and found this thread on google, and it sees to have a clever solution so I tried it out.

Wow! That Walmart "Flo Master" (Michigan company with company motto on box "We work best under pressure" lol) pump sprayer packs a punch! We had more oil pressure than we needed! We had to back off so it wouldn't shoot out on the floor. It worked PERFECTLY! And it was only $8.95!

We went slower and cautiously checked everything on this 100% new virgin crate engine, and were rewarded with oil out of all 16 pushrods.

We weren't able to find the right AN fittings in stock and one local shop wanted $19 for just the M16x1.5 fitting. (Which BTW is wrong, it's an M10x1.5... I think?! Dammit I forgot!)

So we happened to have a brass metric fitting that fit the oil port and connected that to a male-male hose barb adapter via rubber hose, and then the garden sprayer hose fit onto our barb adapter and we just zip tied them and they didn't even leak!

From now on I will be using this badass, ingenious method to prime all my future engine builds. Thanks to badazz81z28 who posted those nice photos of this, you really bailed us out dude! Not to mention saved us a lot of cash!

Our somewhat crude connection:


Flo Master $9 sprayer Pump from walmart attached to engine on stand:


Bone dry virgin 0 mile 2007 GM 4.8L crate engine, just some Powerhouse Products tan colored assembly lube visible:


Now we have oil beginning to flow, thanks to badazz81z28 and his badass sprayer pump idea! (Eventually all 16 pushrods oiled but I didn't take a final photo)

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Melling or Goodson sell the correct priming tool, also some advanced auto part stores rent it

schnellttz06

Or you can get the right tool for the job and not try to rig a bunch of stuff together. This is what I use and it worked great with everything you need and clear step by step instructions with color photos.

https://www.mdrtuning.com/content/x-...p-priming-tool

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

The point is, this home made tool works and puts a few dollars back in your pocket. I couldn't get my self to spend the money to use it once.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Somewhere here on LS1tech, there's a write-up to relocate the OPS. I'll look for it later.