fbodlovr

I just changed out my valley cover to the LS6 cover with the internal PCV valve. I had taken the intake off before and had no issues. But, this time I went in to replace the old LS1 PCV harness which was dry rotted in the back as well as in the front. The weird thing is that I didn't really have any idling issues when the old LS1 harness had those dry rotted spots. It just idled a little rough. The car would sit at about 600 rpm in park, and right on 500 in drive. Now after doing the swap, the car is idling at about 700ish to 800. The other issue is that it's dripping oil quite a bit, about a drip every second. It's running down the passenger side from what I can tell. I think it might POSSIBLY have something to do with the OPSU, but I sent it to a mechanic because I don't have time to do it again. But, would changing to the LS6 valley cover cause the rpms to go up? I forgot to mention that the idle stays the same in drive as when it does in park. It stays about the 700 area. It will actually start out at about 1300ish, and slowly go down the 700ish. The guy that is going to be working on it says that it's still really close to what it was before. I don't completely agree with that. Let me know what your thoughts are. Everything is definitely connected again, I double checked. I'm not certain if the valley cover gasket could have been installed the incorrect way possibly, and that's leading to the leaking oil as well as the increased rpm because of possible vacuum leak(although rpm didn't increase before with broken PCV harness.) PLEASE let me know what your thoughts are.

Could intake not being fully seated, cause the rpms to increase for some reason?

I cleaned the hell out of the throttle body with brake cleaner. That wouldn't do anything would it?

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

700ish 800 sounds normal. opsu was probably cracked when reinstalling intake. spray some carb cleaner around intake area to see if there are any vacuum leaks.

fbodlovr

What I've seen is that 700ish is normal for a stick, not an auto. Is that correct? Mine is an A4. Plus it doesn't go down at all when I put it in drive, which is weird. I could swear there is a sucking sound coming from somewhere too. I just can't tell. The mechanic said he'll spray around everything to see if he can find a leak.

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

sorry never owned an auto. But i dont see a difference as far as idle goes especially in neutral.

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

Did you plug the outlets that needed plugging. I havent done the conversion yet but read that there is a port that needs plugging on the back of each valve covers..

fbodlovr

Yeah I got the plug for the drivers side from a dealer and used the cap from the new cover on the passenger side. So those are good from what I can tell.

nm2769

iTrader: (1)

Did you have a LS1 or LS6 block? If you have the LS1 block did you do the block modification to clear the LS6 valley cover? If you did the modification you may want to check that you removed enough material and it is not lifting the valley cover slightly off the block. This would explain your oil leak and internal vac leak.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

This would definitely explain his issues.

fbodlovr

I have the LS1 block. I did the modification, but I did take off a decent amount of material. If that is it, I would be extremely surprised. But, is there enough oil that gets splashed up under there anyways?

nm2769

iTrader: (1)

I would say enough oil get up in the valley to explain the leak you described. If it was a damaged OPSU from removing or installing the intake I would expect the leak would be much worse. I seen an OPSU broken when installing the manifold that looked like someone used a garden hose full of oil to wash the engine bay. Did you remove the OPSU is it working correctly?

fbodlovr

No, I didn't remove the OPSU. The guage is reading just like I would expect it to, at least showing the pressure that I would normally be seeing. I'm still really surprised that, that much oil can get splashed up to the valley cover to leak out that much.

nm2769

iTrader: (1)

If it is working normally and you didn't remove it I would think it is not the issue. Check out the images at LS1 howto they give a good indication of the amount of oil in the valley. Also note the windows in the block were you can see the cam. You will get a constant small spay of oil from the moving parts. You can see this by the gold color of the oil that has stained the block. Just trying to help.

fbodlovr

I just got a call from the guy that is working on the car. He said he got everything back together, and it is STILL leaking!!!!!! He went ahead and replaced the OPSU, seal on the cam sensor, and put on a new gaskey under the valley cover. He said it is still leaking somewhere in the back. It was dripping, slowly, before I did the swap, and is pretty bad now. He's wondering if the rear main is bad, and mentioned the freeze plug in the back. He also said the cover is NOT hitting the casting boss that I ground down. He is wondering if the engine just needs to be replaced. He said it's making noise when it first starts, which is piston slap. But he thinks it's making another odd noise too. I think it sounds fine after it warms up and the piston slap goes away. But, is there anything that would cause the engine to leak MORE after fixing the vacuum leak? Is it possible that the rear main is bad, and possibly that plug is out, and by me fixing the vacuum leak, it's causing more oil to get out somehow? Could that be possible? If it is, would it mean a sign of the engine creating too much pressure? It still ran like a bat out'a hell before this, even with the slow drip and vacuum leak.