Oil pump swap questions
11-02-2013, 02:48 PM
#1
Oil pump swap questions While changing the oil pump, I've read that you only replace the front crank seal, GM (dealer) part no. 12585673, which I have. Do I/can I/would I want to reuse the timing cover gasket?
What brand and type of RTV should I be using for the timing cover to oil pan seal?
It seemed to me like I had more questions but that's all I can think of for now. Any help is much appreciated!!
What brand and type of RTV should I be using for the timing cover to oil pan seal?
It seemed to me like I had more questions but that's all I can think of for now. Any help is much appreciated!!
11-02-2013, 06:33 PM
#2
While changing the oil pump, I've read that you only replace the front crank seal, GM (dealer) part no. 12585673, which I have. Do I/can I/would I want to reuse the timing cover gasket? What brand and type of RTV should I be using for the timing cover to oil pan seal? It seemed to me like I had more questions but that's all I can think of for now. Any help is much appreciated!!
RTV - Ultra Black.
Don't forget the new O-Ring for the oil pickup tube.
Any other questions throw them up. There's more than enough knowledge on this board to help with anything you could possibly think of.
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11-03-2013, 07:51 AM
#8
Yeah. I'm out till Tuesday. Once I hit the beach my phone normally goes ballistic for a solid 5 minutes, lol.
The black is EXTREMEMLY oil resistant, and what I've used for both the front and rear covers, as well as rocker arm bolts. This is of course, if your rocker holes are no longer blind.
The black is EXTREMEMLY oil resistant, and what I've used for both the front and rear covers, as well as rocker arm bolts. This is of course, if your rocker holes are no longer blind.
11-16-2013, 02:29 PM
#10
Bump! I'm moving really really slowly on this.
I can't get the crank pulley bolt off. (M6 car.) I have a 25-inch breaker bar and all it's doing is turning the crank. I have the car in 4th BUT my parking brake cable snapped off at the handle so I can't set it. The car isn't moving at all because my wheels are nice and chocked, but I'm lost as to how to get the crank to stop turning while I'm trying to loosen it.
I should be going lefty loosey right?
Is the lack of parking brake what's killing me on this?
I can't get the crank pulley bolt off. (M6 car.) I have a 25-inch breaker bar and all it's doing is turning the crank. I have the car in 4th BUT my parking brake cable snapped off at the handle so I can't set it. The car isn't moving at all because my wheels are nice and chocked, but I'm lost as to how to get the crank to stop turning while I'm trying to loosen it.
I should be going lefty loosey right?
Is the lack of parking brake what's killing me on this? Last edited by fruitsalad; 11-16-2013 at 02:38 PM.
11-16-2013, 02:45 PM
#11
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It's on with a 240Lb-ft of torque... they're not fun to break loose. I suggest an Impact; that's always worked the best for me. There are other ways... just search how to remove the balancer bolt.
11-16-2013, 05:35 PM
#14
I haven't. I've heard I should stick a flathead or a dowel pin or something in it to lock it.
What else do I need to disassemble to lock it and how do I make sure it doesn't distort the flywheel? That's no doubt what I need to do to stop it rotating.
What else do I need to disassemble to lock it and how do I make sure it doesn't distort the flywheel? That's no doubt what I need to do to stop it rotating.
11-16-2013, 09:11 PM
#15
All I can give is MY experience. My car was jacked up on jack stands i forget how much.
I used a piece of the jack assembly from my (at the time) 2004 escalade. The part that goes TO the jack itself, to aid in turning. I put that on a tooth, touching the floor of the garage, and proceeded to "dead lift" the wrench and broke it free that way.
It didn't" feel" a full 240, that's for sure.
I used a piece of the jack assembly from my (at the time) 2004 escalade. The part that goes TO the jack itself, to aid in turning. I put that on a tooth, touching the floor of the garage, and proceeded to "dead lift" the wrench and broke it free that way.
It didn't" feel" a full 240, that's for sure.
11-16-2013, 10:15 PM
#16
I hit it with an impact and it laughed at me. So I pulled out my 24" breaker bar (while it was on the engine stand mind you) and broke it loose. I put a couple of the old head bolts in the flexplate and wedged them against the block to keep it from turning. It seems steady pressure works best.
11-17-2013, 05:02 AM
#18
A long breaker bar and a cheater pipe worked for me, I had it in 4th gear and e-brake all the way up.
Felpro Has a complete gasket kit, I have used this kit in 2 TA's and it's awesome!!!
Here's the link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-tcs45993
Also, I used LS7 bolt to install the balancer, is the cheapest and easy way since it's longer than the ls1 so the balancer goes in.
Felpro Has a complete gasket kit, I have used this kit in 2 TA's and it's awesome!!!
Here's the link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-tcs45993
Also, I used LS7 bolt to install the balancer, is the cheapest and easy way since it's longer than the ls1 so the balancer goes in.
Last edited by Ronny_02_WS6; 11-17-2013 at 05:09 AM.
