DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

I'm swapping in a new LS1 to replace the old one that spun a rod bearing. Leaving the short block alone as it should be healthy with the new crank, bearings etc.

I want to shift no later than 66-6700 to be "easy"on the stock 4l60. If that's too high for the stock trans to realistically handle on a every day to every other day basis, let me know.

Shooting for 400 to the wheels, slightly higher or lower is no problem. More fixated on track times than a dyno number.

High 11's to bottom 12's in good weather would be fine for me.

The car is a true daily driver in every sense of the word, but that just causes concern for loudness and longevity. Street manners aren't too much of a concern, it will be dyno tuned by Steve who makes the mail order Frost tunes, so I"m sure I'll be able to get by with a moderately sized cam, especially with a stall that flashed to roughly 4200 on a bone stock motor.

I have a budget of no more than 2000 in go fast parts, car has been sitting a long time so all fluids, all tires, new battery, etc are getting changed as is. The cheaper the better to be quite honest.

Game plan goes as follows in order of what would get done first.

- Speed Engineering 1 7/8ths to eBay true duals dumped. I will later get them extended past the bumper.

-LS6 intake.

-Mid 230's cam. Thinking along the lines of a custom EPS, something custom or off the shelf from Martin @ Tick, or the BTR Stage 3.

- Supporting mods for the valvetrain, BTR duals w/tool steel retainers, not sure on pushrods at the moment, BTR trunnion upgrade, and maybe Morel 5315's.

-Stock 243/799's. Might as well swap for $400 since the motor is on a stand right now.

-If somehow the budget allows for it, i'd do turned down LS3 valves w/ a 3 angle valve job for the 243's. I've heard a good chunk of the power from ported heads comes from the valve jobs, not sure how true that is, but if it is true it seems like a nice way to add power to a budget set of heads without spending 800 to have them ported.

I'm basically focused on making the car faster than the last time I drove it in 2013, but it doesn't have to be a race car. Just looking for bang for the buck improvements while I have the new motor sitting on a stand.

Tuskyz28

This thread will definitely be worth looking into......

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/1531973-advanced-induction-hcr-241-s-dyno-results.html

The factory 241 heads can clear your goal......

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

I was looking at those for maybe this fall, but for now I think I'll stick to a stock casting that's better than the 806s i have now. Maybe get 241s now and later having them ported, but I might as well get 243s if I can though. Without porting, do you think everything on that list should get me to my goals at the track?

Tuskyz28

Yes I do. In fact check this out here.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/1213394-baby-eps-cam-lays-down-430rwhp-415rwtq-track-results.html

Car surprises a lot of people!!

DREAMZ28

iTrader: (1)

I actually just read that thread before I made this post. Great results from that car. Given that my setup will be slightly more aggressive than theirs, I think I'm on a good track.

Also, I was playing with the idea of having the heads milled as well, I would like compression to be around 11.3-11.5, as I have constant access to 93 octane and a great tuner.

Is there any other approach, or maybe better parts you would select if you were looking at the same goals and budget?