Which cam?
#1
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Which cam?
I've decided to get a cam for my TA. Whch one do you all recomend? It's gonna be driven about 50 to 100 miles a week (weekends). It's gonna be mostly for the track and cruises. I'm going to leave the heads stock except for springs and retainers. Also, eventually I'm gonna spray it too. Here are the 3 cams I'm looking at. 224/224 .581/.581 112+4 and, 224/224 .581/.581 113+4 What's the difference in the 2? Also a 231/237 .595/.595 112.
TIA,
Rob
TIA,
Rob
#2
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Given the choice of the 3, I would go for the 224/224@112+4
Theres lots of info here on cams and what these values mean. I found this thread especially informative https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php
But for the vege version go see http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm
In summary,
#1 224/224 .581/.581 112+4
#2 224/224 .581/.581 113+4
#3 231/237 .595/.595 112+0
#1 and #2 appear identical with the same inlet and exhaust duration of 224 degrees crankshaft rotation at 0.050" lift. They have the same lift therefore indicating similar lobe profiles. Both are advanced 4 degrees, meaning the cam will deliver peak volumetric efficiency earlier in the rev range. This is good for street cars as with this amount of duration nil advance will deliver peak power in the upper 6000 rpm range- too high for the average driver.
#1 and #2 are different in that #2 has 2 degrees less valve overlap at 0.050" lift meaning it will smog better, deliver a slightly flatter torque curve but make a little less peak power. #2 will idle with a little less lope.
Using the above explanation you can now draw your own conclusions on #3. #3 will deliver more peak power but higher in the rev range again. It has more lift so will be harder on the valve train and result in noisier valve events. It has more overlap again so will lope more given the bigger inlet and exhaust durations. It likely wont smog and will sacrifice more low down torque for upper end power. This is more a drag racers cam.
Theres lots of info here on cams and what these values mean. I found this thread especially informative https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php
But for the vege version go see http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm
In summary,
#1 224/224 .581/.581 112+4
#2 224/224 .581/.581 113+4
#3 231/237 .595/.595 112+0
#1 and #2 appear identical with the same inlet and exhaust duration of 224 degrees crankshaft rotation at 0.050" lift. They have the same lift therefore indicating similar lobe profiles. Both are advanced 4 degrees, meaning the cam will deliver peak volumetric efficiency earlier in the rev range. This is good for street cars as with this amount of duration nil advance will deliver peak power in the upper 6000 rpm range- too high for the average driver.
#1 and #2 are different in that #2 has 2 degrees less valve overlap at 0.050" lift meaning it will smog better, deliver a slightly flatter torque curve but make a little less peak power. #2 will idle with a little less lope.
Using the above explanation you can now draw your own conclusions on #3. #3 will deliver more peak power but higher in the rev range again. It has more lift so will be harder on the valve train and result in noisier valve events. It has more overlap again so will lope more given the bigger inlet and exhaust durations. It likely wont smog and will sacrifice more low down torque for upper end power. This is more a drag racers cam.
#3
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#1 224/224 .581/.581 112+4
#2 224/224 .581/.581 113+4
#3 231/237 .595/.595 112+0
Ok. Lets take a simpler approach. Both of the 224 cams will pretty much acheive of the same thing. #1 will not drive as well in your A4 then #2, b/c of the LSA(Lobe Seperation Angle). A4's tend to like larger LSA's. 114 is a very nice number for A4's. BUT, its largely all in the tune. You can tune an a4 to run a 110LSA if u really wanted to for a DD. Both 224 cams will get you about 30rwhp give or take a few. They're GREAT daily driver cams, they have great flat torque curves, they're very dependable, and they always produce good numbers. Keep in mind A4's always dyno lower then M6's.
The 231/237(the cam I have sittin in my room waiting for my car to get fixed, then is gettin installed, so yea i've researched it a bit), was once a max-effort cam. This cam can put down some serious horsepower. Like over 400rwhp cam only(full boltons of course). Serious power. Some nasty lope too Great nitrous cam *look at that wicked split* This cam is getting a bit smaller compared to the bigger cams nowadays(G5X3, T-ReX, TSP Magic Stick), but is still a pretty big cam. -=*READ* MUST USE DOUBLE SPRINGS =- Don't wanna risk snappin a spring and havin a valve kiss a piston. Thats a nono.
Either way, for both of these cams you might want to look into getting your converter re-stalled. To something like 3500.
Sorry for the novel. Hope that helps.
#2 224/224 .581/.581 113+4
#3 231/237 .595/.595 112+0
Ok. Lets take a simpler approach. Both of the 224 cams will pretty much acheive of the same thing. #1 will not drive as well in your A4 then #2, b/c of the LSA(Lobe Seperation Angle). A4's tend to like larger LSA's. 114 is a very nice number for A4's. BUT, its largely all in the tune. You can tune an a4 to run a 110LSA if u really wanted to for a DD. Both 224 cams will get you about 30rwhp give or take a few. They're GREAT daily driver cams, they have great flat torque curves, they're very dependable, and they always produce good numbers. Keep in mind A4's always dyno lower then M6's.
The 231/237(the cam I have sittin in my room waiting for my car to get fixed, then is gettin installed, so yea i've researched it a bit), was once a max-effort cam. This cam can put down some serious horsepower. Like over 400rwhp cam only(full boltons of course). Serious power. Some nasty lope too Great nitrous cam *look at that wicked split* This cam is getting a bit smaller compared to the bigger cams nowadays(G5X3, T-ReX, TSP Magic Stick), but is still a pretty big cam. -=*READ* MUST USE DOUBLE SPRINGS =- Don't wanna risk snappin a spring and havin a valve kiss a piston. Thats a nono.
Either way, for both of these cams you might want to look into getting your converter re-stalled. To something like 3500.
Sorry for the novel. Hope that helps.
#6
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Both are advanced 4 degrees, meaning the cam will deliver peak volumetric efficiency earlier in the rev range. This is good for street cars as with this amount of duration nil advance will deliver peak power in the upper 6000 rpm range- too high for the average driver.
#3 will deliver more peak power but higher in the rev range again. It has more lift so will be harder on the valve train and result in noisier valve events.
#1 will not drive as well in your A4 then #2, b/c of the LSA(Lobe Seperation Angle)
Either way, for both of these cams you might want to look into getting your converter re-stalled. To something like 3500.
For the 231/237>>> 4200>4400 (especially with no heads)
I have a TCI 3500 2.5str with a stock cam/internals.
If you're worried about tightness, then get 3:73 gears that will make up for a lot of the looseness.