Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Flycutting in the car

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-02-2004, 08:38 AM
  #1  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
 
xfactor_pitbulls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nevada, TX
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default Flycutting in the car

I understand the procedure and know what it is going to take. My issue is that I havent heard anyone talk about getting to the back cylinders with the drill and cutter. I have put valve springs in the heads while on the car and barely had enough room to get the spider tool for the back 4 valves. So with that said I must imagine getting a drill in there would be a serious bitch. Unless you hook up some kinda funky wobble contraption.
Could someone ease my mind before I get wrapped in that mess.

Thanks

Brandon
Old 11-02-2004, 08:52 AM
  #2  
12 Second Club
 
jermstyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Houston
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

You use a ratchet...
Old 11-02-2004, 08:59 AM
  #3  
Restricted User
iTrader: (43)
 
2001 Pewter WS6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

90* right angle drill... They also make a 90* drill attachment...
Old 11-02-2004, 10:18 AM
  #4  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
 
gomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: The Confederacy
Posts: 3,063
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 2001 Pewter WS6
90* right angle drill... They also make a 90* drill attachment...

I used a 90* drill that I have, without it.. the job would have sucked even worse than it did.
Old 11-02-2004, 04:55 PM
  #5  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
 
xfactor_pitbulls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nevada, TX
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by gomer
I used a 90* drill that I have, without it.. the job would have sucked even worse than it did.
Well thank you for the answers guys. That makes sense. One last thing before I am on my way. The standard acceptable cut seems to be around .080. A few guys say .100 is ok and a few say .060 is max. My question is this. If you cut .080 does that mean you increase your actual clearance by that number. For example if I am going to run a cam with .605 lift int/exh and I end up with .040 PTVC, after a cut off say .080 will I have a PTVC of .12? I just wasnt sure if it was a direct translation.

Brandon
Old 11-02-2004, 05:20 PM
  #6  
11 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
 
gomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: The Confederacy
Posts: 3,063
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by xfactor_pitbulls
Well thank you for the answers guys. That makes sense. One last thing before I am on my way. The standard acceptable cut seems to be around .080. A few guys say .100 is ok and a few say .060 is max. My question is this. If you cut .080 does that mean you increase your actual clearance by that number. For example if I am going to run a cam with .605 lift int/exh and I end up with .040 PTVC, after a cut off say .080 will I have a PTVC of .12? I just wasnt sure if it was a direct translation.

Brandon
Yes, you are correct, how ever much you cut by.. that's how much clearance you'll gain. I tried for .080 on my car... but some of them are a little deeper than that It is real real hard to be exact about it. If I wanted .080 again, I'd shoot for .090 and take a +/- .010 tolerance on it




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:32 PM.