Timberwolf

iTrader: (8)

I am thinking of doing a build up to a 427 stroker. My plan is a 6.0 block bored to 4.060 and a 4.125 stroker crank. Which rods and pistons? Will a 6.125 rod work and allow the skirts plenty of clearance? Who offers pistons for this setup?

I'd like to go with a longer rod to reduce angularity, but it seems like that would make for a compression height that's getting into the ring lands a bit much.

what do you think?

Ben R

Your best bet is to call a reputable engine builder and let him make the decisions.

I would recommend LME. Great work at great prices. They have a 408 special for the month of January if you're interested!

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

Lunati makes a kit for exactlly what your doing. Actually, my buddy has the exact set-up for sale in the FS section. A 4.060 bore on a 6.0 is very dangerous. The block needs to be sonic tested for it's stregnth, and if it dosen't pass the test, then you've crapped out a block. A 423 would be a better choice. Just reduce the bore to 4.040, that way you have room for a hone if anything were to ever happen. Here is a link to my friends thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...3&page=1&pp=10 He has the kit and the block ready to be assembaled.

Timberwolf

iTrader: (8)

I'm not spending $10k on a shortblock so someone else can pick the manufacturer. I have built a ton of engines in the last 20 years. All I'm looking for is info on what's out there. What I'm not looking for is someone to tell me that I should let someone else build my engine because I don't know what I am doing.

I may be new to big inch gen 3 motors, but I am by no means new. Besides, how do these reputable engine builders figure out what to do? they try it. That means if they've done it, the recipes are out there. these motors have been around 8 years now, they aren't magical creatures to be feared.

Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

When you find a good price on a Lunati crank, let me know.

If you plan to put any spray to it, forget the 427. But if you have your mind made up, I would contact Kris @ Scoggins (link to right) and see if they can sonic check some blocks for you until you find the one you want.

I wanted a 427, but I've decided to just put together a stout 402-408 until parts from the new LS7 comes out.

As atated, Lunati puts out a kit that has everything you need. Get the part # & call everyone to the right, (or your favorite parts guy) until you get a good price. Good luck.

Ben R

Here we go.....

1. Taking a 6.0L block to 4.060 is VERY dangerous. Anybody with LS1 experience knows this.

2. Try 5,200 for a bullet-proof 408CI Short-Block. Lunati crank. Lunati Rods. Wiseco Pistons. Clevite Rod Bearings. Federal Mogul Main Bearings. Precision machining and installation.

3. If you were supremely intelligent you'd be on LS1Tech.com sponsors' websites looking through their stuff to figure out which manufacturers make good parts for these LS1 cars. You'd also be calling manufacturers asking them any specific questions you might have.

4. Once again, you're going to need to start calling the manufacturers. Some simple math will also be in order.

5. Refer to number 4.

6. This is something an experience LS1 engine builder could discuss with you. They know enough to be able to tell you which would be the best bet based on your power goals and intended use. They would also be able to tell you that if you're really trying to save money, it can be cheaper with some parts to buy a SBC equivallent and do some machining on them to get them to work with an LS1.

These are 6 great reasons to go with an experienced engine builder. Not that one can't do it by themselves in a garage. But by the time a machine shop does all of your machining, sets your ring gaps and bearing clearances, it's almost easier just to let them do the assembly. A lot of these engine builders offer some kind of warranty, which isn't something you get when you do it yourself.

Goodluck with whatever you decide to do.

11 Bravo

iTrader: (3)

I can tell you from personal experience that if you are building a LS1 stroker from scratch, it's actually cheaper to buy a motor built by one of the sponsors, or another reputable shop. Unless you have some kind of hookup on some serious discounts. I'm sure if you don't like the parts they offer, they will work with you. However many thousands of motors you have built in 20 years ain't gonna change that. These are no small block chevy's lol

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I had a 4.060 bore iron block and it was a rare block. It can be done but most have too much core shift.

You may also want to contact APE or W2W are in near Detroit.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

4.060 bore w/approval via sonic checking is safe for N/A applications.

ls6jimmy

iTrader: (2)

timberwolf check your pm's

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

i was also thinkin of building a stroker motor, except i was going to use an ls6 block and go with a 422,is it any better with the ls6 block to start out with?

racer7088

Hey to get in here at the end we also sell all the parts VERY reasonably. Also I can tell you anything you need to know but you would need to call after 2 pm central here and ask for me. We do these engines every week here. I agree with Ben though that I'd probably shy away from .060 but it all depends. You couldn't run NOS on an engine like this.

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

I think the problem here is people that have never tried to do this combo. I have a 4.060 bore iron block that I have put plenty of nitrous through with no issues. It took me two blocks of sonic testing, but with an offset bore on a couple cylinders I am still at .100 thickness minimum. My only problem is keeping a tranny running long enough to enjoy it. With a 4.125 stroke you are stuck with the 6.125 rods. If you are going to run a big power adder then I agree that a 30 or 40 over would be a better idea. I would still sonic test and offset bore either way to maintain the thickest sides. I put my motor together and it was a great experience. This way when something breaks I only need to point the finger at myself. Sponsors are still great for info and parts.

onebad427

iTrader: (4)

I have Speed Inc. outside of Chicago assembling my Stroker. Tom is the President and his number is 1-866-571-7733. I usually assemble my own stuff, but thought it wise this time to let the Pros do it. I went all out, so the price is all out, but there are many different levels to build at. I chose this setup:
MTI Darton resleeved block(LS6 or alum. 5.3, and they will only accept used blocks);
Eagle (instead of Lunati...too much $$$) forged rotating assy., 4" crank throw and 6.125" con rods with 9.2cr.;
AFR 225 heads;
Comp cams valve train with custom cam.
Tom tells me this combo will spin approx. 7400.
This behind a 16psi D-1sc intercooled procharger and backed up by some tasty pieces.
I have heard bad things about going over 408 in the 6.0.
Goodluck.

Karlo

Please correct me if I am wrong. I am kinda new at this. LQ9 6.0 iron block Bore is 4.0 and a crank of 4.250 yields. Bore x Bore x Stroke x 8 x .7854 = Cubic Inch. 4 x 4 x 4.250 x 8 x .7854 = 427.2576. Granted the 4.250 Crank will need some strategic grinding on the bottom of the cyclinder liners in ls1 block. It sounds like it can worked . This information is from some my reading. Any input is encouraged.

Timberwolf

iTrader: (8)

the problem I tihnk you will find is you'd need an incredibly short rod which would side load the heack out of the bores, not to mention you may run into compression height problems. This is why I was trying to go for a bigger bore and less stroke so the rods could be kept longer.

Right now I am looking at a 4.125 bore instead of the 4.060. bvioulsy this will require a resleeved block, but it makes life simpler in the end

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

i was thinkin about a 4" stroke and a 4.060 bore how much would it cost to resleeve an s6 block?

Builder

Darton quotes about $2600 for the process -- you supply the block. For the same process in a new block is about $100 more.

crow2

[QUOTE=Timberwolf]I am thinking of doing a build up to a 427 stroker. My plan is a 6.0 block bored to 4.060 and a 4.125 stroker crank. Which rods and pistons? Will a 6.125 rod work and allow the skirts plenty of clearance? Who offers pistons for this setup?

I'd like to go with a longer rod to reduce angularity, but it seems like that would make for a compression height that's getting into the ring lands a bit much.

what do you think?[/QUOTE We use several diffrerent brands,such as SRP,or JE,EVEN WEISCO,LUNATI,CALLIES,CROWER ECT....Give us a shot!
thanks!

Karlo

Barry Crow

Is there any truth to my earlier post about the 427 stroked?