427 build...advice and where to get the pieces?
427 build...advice and where to get the pieces? I am thinking of doing a build up to a 427 stroker. My plan is a 6.0 block bored to 4.060 and a 4.125 stroker crank. Which rods and pistons? Will a 6.125 rod work and allow the skirts plenty of clearance? Who offers pistons for this setup?
I'd like to go with a longer rod to reduce angularity, but it seems like that would make for a compression height that's getting into the ring lands a bit much.
what do you think?
I'd like to go with a longer rod to reduce angularity, but it seems like that would make for a compression height that's getting into the ring lands a bit much.
what do you think?
TECH Junkie
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,726
Likes: 0
From: Fort Collins, CO
Your best bet is to call a reputable engine builder and let him make the decisions.
I would recommend LME. Great work at great prices. They have a 408 special for the month of January if you're interested!
I would recommend LME. Great work at great prices. They have a 408 special for the month of January if you're interested!
Lunati makes a kit for exactlly what your doing. Actually, my buddy has the exact set-up for sale in the FS section. A 4.060 bore on a 6.0 is very dangerous. The block needs to be sonic tested for it's stregnth, and if it dosen't pass the test, then you've crapped out a block. A 423 would be a better choice. Just reduce the bore to 4.040, that way you have room for a hone if anything were to ever happen. Here is a link to my friends thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...3&page=1&pp=10 He has the kit and the block ready to be assembaled.
Originally Posted by KingCrapBox
Your best bet is to call a reputable engine builder and let him make the decisions.
I would recommend LME. Great work at great prices. They have a 408 special for the month of January if you're interested!
I would recommend LME. Great work at great prices. They have a 408 special for the month of January if you're interested!
I may be new to big inch gen 3 motors, but I am by no means new. Besides, how do these reputable engine builders figure out what to do? they try it. That means if they've done it, the recipes are out there. these motors have been around 8 years now, they aren't magical creatures to be feared.
When you find a good price on a Lunati crank, let me know.
If you plan to put any spray to it, forget the 427. But if you have your mind made up, I would contact Kris @ Scoggins (link to right) and see if they can sonic check some blocks for you until you find the one you want.
I wanted a 427, but I've decided to just put together a stout 402-408 until parts from the new LS7 comes out.
As atated, Lunati puts out a kit that has everything you need. Get the part # & call everyone to the right, (or your favorite parts guy) until you get a good price. Good luck.
If you plan to put any spray to it, forget the 427. But if you have your mind made up, I would contact Kris @ Scoggins (link to right) and see if they can sonic check some blocks for you until you find the one you want.
I wanted a 427, but I've decided to just put together a stout 402-408 until parts from the new LS7 comes out.
As atated, Lunati puts out a kit that has everything you need. Get the part # & call everyone to the right, (or your favorite parts guy) until you get a good price. Good luck.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,726
Likes: 0
From: Fort Collins, CO
Originally Posted by Timberwolf
I'm not spending $10k on a shortblock so someone else can pick the manufacturer. I have built a ton of engines in the last 20 years. All I'm looking for is info on what's out there. What I'm not looking for is someone to tell me that I should let someone else build my engine because I don't know what I am doing.
I may be new to big inch gen 3 motors, but I am by no means new. Besides, how do these reputable engine builders figure out what to do? they try it. That means if they've done it, the recipes are out there. these motors have been around 8 years now, they aren't magical creatures to be feared.
I may be new to big inch gen 3 motors, but I am by no means new. Besides, how do these reputable engine builders figure out what to do? they try it. That means if they've done it, the recipes are out there. these motors have been around 8 years now, they aren't magical creatures to be feared.
Here we go..... 1. Taking a 6.0L block to 4.060 is VERY dangerous. Anybody with LS1 experience knows this.
2. Try 5,200 for a bullet-proof 408CI Short-Block. Lunati crank. Lunati Rods. Wiseco Pistons. Clevite Rod Bearings. Federal Mogul Main Bearings. Precision machining and installation.
3. If you were supremely intelligent you'd be on LS1Tech.com sponsors' websites looking through their stuff to figure out which manufacturers make good parts for these LS1 cars. You'd also be calling manufacturers asking them any specific questions you might have.
4.
Will a 6.125 rod work and allow the skirts plenty of clearance?
5.
Who offers pistons for this setup?
6.
I'd like to go with a longer rod to reduce angularity, but it seems like that would make for a compression height that's getting into the ring lands a bit much.
These are 6 great reasons to go with an experienced engine builder. Not that one can't do it by themselves in a garage. But by the time a machine shop does all of your machining, sets your ring gaps and bearing clearances, it's almost easier just to let them do the assembly. A lot of these engine builders offer some kind of warranty, which isn't something you get when you do it yourself.
Goodluck with whatever you decide to do.
Originally Posted by Timberwolf
I'm not spending $10k on a shortblock so someone else can pick the manufacturer. I have built a ton of engines in the last 20 years.
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FormerVendor
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,065
Likes: 6
From: Houston, Tx.
Originally Posted by Timberwolf
I am thinking of doing a build up to a 427 stroker. My plan is a 6.0 block bored to 4.060 and a 4.125 stroker crank. Which rods and pistons? Will a 6.125 rod work and allow the skirts plenty of clearance? Who offers pistons for this setup?
I'd like to go with a longer rod to reduce angularity, but it seems like that would make for a compression height that's getting into the ring lands a bit much.
what do you think?
I'd like to go with a longer rod to reduce angularity, but it seems like that would make for a compression height that's getting into the ring lands a bit much.
what do you think?
I think the problem here is people that have never tried to do this combo. I have a 4.060 bore iron block that I have put plenty of nitrous through with no issues. It took me two blocks of sonic testing, but with an offset bore on a couple cylinders I am still at .100 thickness minimum. My only problem is keeping a tranny running long enough to enjoy it. With a 4.125 stroke you are stuck with the 6.125 rods. If you are going to run a big power adder then I agree that a 30 or 40 over would be a better idea. I would still sonic test and offset bore either way to maintain the thickest sides. I put my motor together and it was a great experience. This way when something breaks I only need to point the finger at myself. Sponsors are still great for info and parts.
the best 427 stroker setup seen yet. I have Speed Inc. outside of Chicago assembling my Stroker. Tom is the President and his number is 1-866-571-7733. I usually assemble my own stuff, but thought it wise this time to let the Pros do it. I went all out, so the price is all out, but there are many different levels to build at. I chose this setup:
MTI Darton resleeved block(LS6 or alum. 5.3, and they will only accept used blocks);
Eagle (instead of Lunati...too much $$$) forged rotating assy., 4" crank throw and 6.125" con rods with 9.2cr.;
AFR 225 heads;
Comp cams valve train with custom cam.
Tom tells me this combo will spin approx. 7400.
This behind a 16psi D-1sc intercooled procharger and backed up by some tasty pieces.
I have heard bad things about going over 408 in the 6.0.
Goodluck.
MTI Darton resleeved block(LS6 or alum. 5.3, and they will only accept used blocks);
Eagle (instead of Lunati...too much $$$) forged rotating assy., 4" crank throw and 6.125" con rods with 9.2cr.;
AFR 225 heads;
Comp cams valve train with custom cam.
Tom tells me this combo will spin approx. 7400.
This behind a 16psi D-1sc intercooled procharger and backed up by some tasty pieces.
I have heard bad things about going over 408 in the 6.0.
Goodluck.
Last edited by onebad427; Jan 27, 2005 at 06:50 AM. Reason: more info
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Boise, Idaho
427 figures Please correct me if I am wrong. I am kinda new at this. LQ9 6.0 iron block Bore is 4.0 and a crank of 4.250 yields. Bore x Bore x Stroke x 8 x .7854 = Cubic Inch. 4 x 4 x 4.250 x 8 x .7854 = 427.2576. Granted the 4.250 Crank will need some strategic grinding on the bottom of the cyclinder liners in ls1 block. It sounds like it can worked . This information is from some my reading. Any input is encouraged.
Originally Posted by Karlo
Please correct me if I am wrong. I am kinda new at this. LQ9 6.0 iron block Bore is 4.0 and a crank of 4.250 yields. Bore x Bore x Stroke x 8 x .7854 = Cubic Inch. 4 x 4 x 4.250 x 8 x .7854 = 427.2576. Granted the 4.250 Crank will need some strategic grinding on the bottom of the cyclinder liners in ls1 block. It sounds like it can worked . This information is from some my reading. Any input is encouraged.
Right now I am looking at a 4.125 bore instead of the 4.060. bvioulsy this will require a resleeved block, but it makes life simpler in the end
TECH Regular
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by ddnspider
i was thinkin about a 4" stroke and a 4.060 bore how much would it cost to resleeve an s6 block?
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
[QUOTE=Timberwolf]I am thinking of doing a build up to a 427 stroker. My plan is a 6.0 block bored to 4.060 and a 4.125 stroker crank. Which rods and pistons? Will a 6.125 rod work and allow the skirts plenty of clearance? Who offers pistons for this setup?
I'd like to go with a longer rod to reduce angularity, but it seems like that would make for a compression height that's getting into the ring lands a bit much.
what do you think?[/QUOTE We use several diffrerent brands,such as SRP,or JE,EVEN WEISCO,LUNATI,CALLIES,CROWER ECT....Give us a shot!
thanks!
I'd like to go with a longer rod to reduce angularity, but it seems like that would make for a compression height that's getting into the ring lands a bit much.
what do you think?[/QUOTE We use several diffrerent brands,such as SRP,or JE,EVEN WEISCO,LUNATI,CALLIES,CROWER ECT....Give us a shot!
thanks!