JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Is it generally acceptable to torque the stock rockers to 22 ft/lbs ... then turn the motor over a couple, of times and then recheck them for 22 ft/lbs?

I'm pulling the valve covers today, in hopes of quietening the sewing-machine-effect down. It's gotten progressively worse ovet the past few weeks.

Wicked_Hugger99

iTrader: (1)

torqing them to 22lb/ft is right. Have u already re-checked them after startin the car up and letting it warm up?
I dunno why the "sew machine noise" would be worsening?
im stumped to!

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I am removing the valve covers now. My car only has 38,000 miles and doesn't make enough power to hurt the internals, so, I'm pretty sure I have rocker arm or two loose. It smokes a little more than it should when it orangelines ... maybe due to fuel glazing of the cylinders, so, the rings aren't sealing well or something else maybe.

I'm hoping it's nothing serious. So, for now, the first thing I wanted to do is check the rocker arms. Guess I better get back to it. Thanks for helping me out.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Got 'em off, but, there were only 3 or 4 rockers that even moved and only slightly ... I'm taking the opportunity to powdercoat the valve covers. If I go over 22 ft/lbs will do damage to my car? ****, once the covers were removed, it's like 5 times quieter. At least now I'll be satisfied that the rocker arms are tight.

Any suggestions before I put it all back together?

Black Z/28

Funny, when I first put my valve covers back on I tightened them down a little too much so a couple of my Harland Sharps were tapping the inside top of the valve covers. Made a pretty good racket. Anyway, I rotated my engine over 4 times and re-torqued each time. I don't think this was really necessary but I wanted to be sure. I certainly didn't want to over-torque cause I didn't want to snap a bolt.

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Don't over torque them as you can snap bolts. I noticed you have a different cam in it. I believe the base circle is .030 under stock. If you are still using 7.4" pushrods you may not be getting enough preload on the lifters. To check this rotate the motor with a wrench on the crank bolt so that the rocker you are checking has the valve fully closed. Loosen the bolt on it. Tighten it now until there is zero lash. No gap between the rocker and pushrod. Now use your torque wrench and tighten down to 22 lb/ft. Count how many rotations it takes to get to 22. If it takes 1.5-2 turns on stock lifters then it is correct. If it isn't then you probably need shorter pushrods with shims to get the preload right. You can buy .015 and .030 shims from crane and comp which go under the rocker rail on the rocker bolts. If you have to do this you need to go through all the rockers with the same procedure and shim them as needed. With correct preload you shouldn't have the sewing machine effect that many complain about.