Scrappy

Ok guys I have a 00 SS M6 Lid, LT Headers and SLP Loudmouth. I would like to be supercharged in the future (long time from now). Will this cam be good N/A until I can afford a blower in about 2 yrs?

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

This will work just fine. You'll make plenty of power N/A , and even more when S/CH.
Just make sure you get that cam with LSA 114 or higher

Dave D

why would you want 114 lsa or higher?? Just wondering.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Less overlap.

112, 110, etc. have more overlap, which will blow boost right through the cylinder and out the exhaust.

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

Yup, just like digitalsolo said. Nothing wrong with LSA112, but you're just gonna lose power.... you need less overlap for forced iduction, hence 114+ (I'd suggest 115)

Dave D

Wow thanks everyone! I was wondering what LSA figured into the equasion- i thought it dealt with how choppy it sounded only.

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

Read the "sticky" cam guide.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/327734-cam-guide.html

There is a hell lot more to LSA than just "choppiness"

But for the lazy ones, here you go:


LSA is defined as spread in camshaft degrees between the intake centerline and the exhaust centerline.

- Overlap is the number of crankshaft degrees that both the intake and exhaust valves are open as the cylinder transitions through the end of the exhaust stroke and into the intake stroke

- LSA is ground into the cam and cannot be changed without grinding a new cam

- Bigger duration cams will have more overlap then a smaller duration cam even if both are on the same LSA.

- The key to making overlap work is maximizing the power in the rpm band where you want it.

- Long overlap periods work best for high-rpm power. For the street, a long overlap period combined with long-duration profiles combine to kill low-speed torque

- Reducing overlap on a long-duration cam will often increase midrange torque at the expense of peak power, but if the average torque improves, that’s probably a change worth making.

- Many enthusiasts purchase a camshaft strictly on the basis of how it sounds. A cam with generous overlap creates that distinctive choppy idle that just sounds cool.

- While doing my research on the T1 I cam across this dyno in which if I recall Tony (Nineball) stated that the blue graph was a T1 (112 lsa) and the other 2 where a B1 (114) lsa. 112 vs. 114

- What really affects where the cam makes the most power is the intake timing events. What affects drivability most is the exhaust-closing event.

Scrappy

How much HP should I expect from it NA? I dyno'd at 350 HP 353 TQ with what I have now.

00RedWs6

Id be curious as to what to expect to as I am looking into this cam. I dont think I could run the 918s with the bigger 230/236 cam from TR

blkZ28spt

Just to make sure, you do have a manual, correct?

I wouldn't worry about how the cam will act with boost if you don't even plan to get the blower for two more years. Considering how many other mods you will want before that time and how much a blower costs I'd just get a great NA cam for your current application and swap cams with the blower.

Scrappy

Yes I have a manual. Also does anyone have a dyno sheet showing this cam with mods similar to mine?

blkZ28spt

Search dyno results and comparisons. You should be just as interested in how much power people are picking up as what they are making in the end. All power is essentially relative to where you start.

00RedWs6

Would this cam yield solid power out of a bolton A4? I have a 98 Z28 A4, 3800 Stall,Longtubes,Y pipe,Catback,3.42s.

LS1_Disciple

iTrader: (1)

I can't help with the question at hand, but I just had to point out that you mention 2 years is a long time. I've been laughing at that for a while now.

Sorry for the disruption. Good luck with the cam.