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How To Remove the Engine From the Bottom
07-21-2005, 11:10 PM
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How To Remove the Engine From the Bottom As simple as it may look, getting the LS1 out of the Camaro and Firebird’s under hood compartment can be an exhilarating task when one has not assumed the position to do it in the past. This thread will be a step-by-step removal and replacement (from now on referred to by R&R). The tips and tricks here are comprised of GM manuals, magazine articles, and just plain old doing it yourself. Some steps can be performed another way and I’m other members will let me and you know what they have done differently and how it has worked for them.
There will be 3 threads, one for F-Body owners, one for Vette owners, and one for GM truck owners.
There will be 3 threads, one for F-Body owners, one for Vette owners, and one for GM truck owners.
07-21-2005, 11:11 PM
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Taking the engine out of a Camaro / Firebird from below is not as much as a haggle as it would seem.
Step 1 – LIFTING THE CAR
There are several ways to go about this, cherry pickers, jack stands, lifts, you name it, and it has been thought of and tried. Even jacking it up with the jacks on tires. For this particular thread, we will assume we have a lift accessible.
Step 2 – DISCONNECT THE BATTERY
Anytime work is being performed on your car, please disconnect the battery. Make sure you have the TheftLock code though or you will be riding around without tunes. This is done to ensure sparks or voltage doesn’t harm your electrical components.
Step 3 – DRAIN THE COOLANT
The coolant is the first fluid drained when removing the engine. If you will be tearing the engine down, you can also drain the oil. To drain the coolant, open the petcock valve on the lower passenger side of the radiator. FYI, GM uses a 50/50 mix of Dexcool and water.
Step 4 – REMOVE THE AIR LID, BELLOW, AND MAF
Unclip the air box clamps at the front end and loosen the last hose clamp, at the throttle body.
Step 5 – UPPER RADIATOR HOSES
Using a set of pliers, squeeze the two “tabs” or together and slide the clamp back towards the center of the hose about 3-4” will normally do. Be careful not to split your hoses when doing this. If you use a screwdriver, be gentle. I use a screwdriver on all 3 of my engine removals and did not damage a hose.
Step 6 – REMOVE THE THROTTLE CABLE
Use the radiator hook tool to push on the locking tan through the hole in the bracket. When the lock is released slide the cable up and out of the bracket.
Step 7 – UN-LOOP THE THROTTLE CABLE
Like the step says, un-loop the throttle cable form around the throttle body arm.
Step 8 – REMOVE THE FUEL LINE
This will require a special tool. Snap-On makes it, GM makes it, and I’m sure there are others. Pull the tool towards the driver’s side of the vehicle to release the “tangs” that hold it in place. Then, while pulling the fuel line, push the feed line to the passenger side but be careful, fuel pressure is on it and it will shoot fuel out,
Step 9 – REMOVE BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE
Simply remove the hose going to the brake booster.
Step 10 – The purge solenoid has a hose connection on it that you can remove by pinching it with your fingers. Wiggle and pull at the same time gently. Remove the coil wiring first to give your self some more time.
Step 1 – LIFTING THE CAR
There are several ways to go about this, cherry pickers, jack stands, lifts, you name it, and it has been thought of and tried. Even jacking it up with the jacks on tires. For this particular thread, we will assume we have a lift accessible.
Step 2 – DISCONNECT THE BATTERY
Anytime work is being performed on your car, please disconnect the battery. Make sure you have the TheftLock code though or you will be riding around without tunes. This is done to ensure sparks or voltage doesn’t harm your electrical components.
Step 3 – DRAIN THE COOLANT
The coolant is the first fluid drained when removing the engine. If you will be tearing the engine down, you can also drain the oil. To drain the coolant, open the petcock valve on the lower passenger side of the radiator. FYI, GM uses a 50/50 mix of Dexcool and water.
Step 4 – REMOVE THE AIR LID, BELLOW, AND MAF
Unclip the air box clamps at the front end and loosen the last hose clamp, at the throttle body.
Step 5 – UPPER RADIATOR HOSES
Using a set of pliers, squeeze the two “tabs” or together and slide the clamp back towards the center of the hose about 3-4” will normally do. Be careful not to split your hoses when doing this. If you use a screwdriver, be gentle. I use a screwdriver on all 3 of my engine removals and did not damage a hose.
Step 6 – REMOVE THE THROTTLE CABLE
Use the radiator hook tool to push on the locking tan through the hole in the bracket. When the lock is released slide the cable up and out of the bracket.
Step 7 – UN-LOOP THE THROTTLE CABLE
Like the step says, un-loop the throttle cable form around the throttle body arm.
Step 8 – REMOVE THE FUEL LINE
This will require a special tool. Snap-On makes it, GM makes it, and I’m sure there are others. Pull the tool towards the driver’s side of the vehicle to release the “tangs” that hold it in place. Then, while pulling the fuel line, push the feed line to the passenger side but be careful, fuel pressure is on it and it will shoot fuel out,
Step 9 – REMOVE BRAKE BOOSTER HOSE
Simply remove the hose going to the brake booster.
Step 10 – The purge solenoid has a hose connection on it that you can remove by pinching it with your fingers. Wiggle and pull at the same time gently. Remove the coil wiring first to give your self some more time.
07-21-2005, 11:12 PM
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Step 11 – AIR SYSTEM
The AIR system is electronically actuated so remove the wiring connector by lifting the lock tang and pulling it off with your hand. Also remove the EGR valve control at this point in time as well.
Step 12 – ABS MODULE
A 13mm flare-nut wrench will allow you to remove the two brake lines from the ABS module. Push the lines towards the engine, they will drop with the engine. FYI there are some clips behind the sheetmetal that hold the brake lines to the frame near the exhaust. Remove the shield and pop the lines out of the clip.
Step 13 – BRAKE BOOSTER
Use an extension with a 15mm socket to remove the 2 15mm nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the booster. This allows you to access the 2 Torx 50 shock tower nuts located under the master cylinder. You may also be able to do this without removing the Booster but look at it first. Leave the other shock tower bolts in place until you get ready to lift the car off of the front cradle but do the 2 Torx now.
Step 14 – STEERING SHAFT
Use a 7/16 socket t remove the bolt holding the imtermediate steering shaft in place. There are 2 places to do this, I’ve done both and it hasn’t made much difference.
Step 15 – PLUGS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE
2 PCM Plugs – 2 7mm bolts hold these in place, the bolts won’t come out, they are nested in the PCM.
All of the smaller plugs around this
A/C clutch WOT override
Step 16 – REMOVE THE PCM MOUNT
Just remove the 2 hex-headed bolts that go into the shock towers.
Step 17 – FIREWALL WIRING
There are 2 bundles of wire coming from the interior of the car through a grommet on the lower portion of the firewall behind the passenger-side wheel housing. Remove the grommet carefully, carefully pull the wire into the engine bay, just enough to zip-tie the connectors to the engine bay. Don’t let them fall back in or you will have to start pulling stuff out of the interior.
Step 18 – AC COMPRESSOR
Start with the top two 15mm bolts on the a/c bracket. The bottom 2 15mm can be removed from under the vehicle, then swing the compressor and hoses connected to it towards the front of the car and hang or tie the compressor from a radiator support bracket. If you are using the radiator support bracket to lift the car, you might want to find somewhere else to tie it up.
Step 19 – STARTER
Now you remove the two 13mm hex headed bolts holding the starter into place. Unhook the wiring and try to remember where it all goes. Take a picture if needed.
Step 20 – CRANKSHAFT POSITIONING SENSOR
Slide a pick through the tang on the clip next to the engine then pry open while pulling on it. Remove the ground wire going to the block here and the o2 sensor pigtail going to the exhaust. All of this is in the same area.
The AIR system is electronically actuated so remove the wiring connector by lifting the lock tang and pulling it off with your hand. Also remove the EGR valve control at this point in time as well.
Step 12 – ABS MODULE
A 13mm flare-nut wrench will allow you to remove the two brake lines from the ABS module. Push the lines towards the engine, they will drop with the engine. FYI there are some clips behind the sheetmetal that hold the brake lines to the frame near the exhaust. Remove the shield and pop the lines out of the clip.
Step 13 – BRAKE BOOSTER
Use an extension with a 15mm socket to remove the 2 15mm nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the booster. This allows you to access the 2 Torx 50 shock tower nuts located under the master cylinder. You may also be able to do this without removing the Booster but look at it first. Leave the other shock tower bolts in place until you get ready to lift the car off of the front cradle but do the 2 Torx now.
Step 14 – STEERING SHAFT
Use a 7/16 socket t remove the bolt holding the imtermediate steering shaft in place. There are 2 places to do this, I’ve done both and it hasn’t made much difference.
Step 15 – PLUGS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE
2 PCM Plugs – 2 7mm bolts hold these in place, the bolts won’t come out, they are nested in the PCM.
All of the smaller plugs around this
A/C clutch WOT override
Step 16 – REMOVE THE PCM MOUNT
Just remove the 2 hex-headed bolts that go into the shock towers.
Step 17 – FIREWALL WIRING
There are 2 bundles of wire coming from the interior of the car through a grommet on the lower portion of the firewall behind the passenger-side wheel housing. Remove the grommet carefully, carefully pull the wire into the engine bay, just enough to zip-tie the connectors to the engine bay. Don’t let them fall back in or you will have to start pulling stuff out of the interior.
Step 18 – AC COMPRESSOR
Start with the top two 15mm bolts on the a/c bracket. The bottom 2 15mm can be removed from under the vehicle, then swing the compressor and hoses connected to it towards the front of the car and hang or tie the compressor from a radiator support bracket. If you are using the radiator support bracket to lift the car, you might want to find somewhere else to tie it up.
Step 19 – STARTER
Now you remove the two 13mm hex headed bolts holding the starter into place. Unhook the wiring and try to remember where it all goes. Take a picture if needed.
Step 20 – CRANKSHAFT POSITIONING SENSOR
Slide a pick through the tang on the clip next to the engine then pry open while pulling on it. Remove the ground wire going to the block here and the o2 sensor pigtail going to the exhaust. All of this is in the same area.
07-21-2005, 11:12 PM
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Step 21 – OIL LEVEL SENSOR
Lift the tang on the oil level sensor and pull it off.
Step 22 – FRONT SWAY BAR
Some people may have already done this, but, unbolt the 4 13mm bolts holding the sway bar onto place. Let the sway bar hang on the engine cradle.
Step 23 – GROUND STRAPS
I cannot stress this enough. WATCH OUT for the many ground straps. Keep a lookout and make sure you don’t forget them or you will tear them while you drop the engine or lift the body.
Step 24 – ALTERNATOR
Use a 13mm socket to remove the “constant power” nut on the back of the alternator.
Step 25 –HYDRAULIC THROWOUT BEARING
The throw-out bearing has a quick-connect at the tranny. Use a radiator hook to push in on the Teflon release sleeve and pull to disconnect it from the transmission.
Step 26 – AUTO’S ONLY!!! SHIFTER CABLE
Now you remove the shifter cable from the transmission shift arm and the mount for it. Use the radiator hook to pull up on the lock pin in the cable housing to release the lock it has mounted. Also on the Auto’s, take the 3 15mm torque converter bolts accessible through the opening where the starter used to be.
Step 27 – Y-PIPE
If you have an ORY, simply unhook it and go. If you have a catted y, the exhaust on the back of the cats will need to be removed as well.
Step 28 – DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL
Remove the U-joint bolt-on caps and slide the driveshaft forward slightly to release it from the pinion. If the rear-end is hanging at full droop clearance may be an issue. Pull it out. Simple.
Step 29 – TORQUE ARM BRACKET
Take the top bolt out on the trans-mounted torque-arm bracket and bend it so the bushing will barely clear the bracket. Time to earn it now. Work the torque arm towards the driver’s side of the vehicle. It is a “picky” deal, you will have to play with it for a little while but if you do it once, the next time won’t be as hard.
Step 30 – OIL PRESSURE SENDER
Now we disconnect the oil pressure sender at the back of the intake on top of the valley plate, Also disconnect the hose plugged into the manifold just below that.
Lift the tang on the oil level sensor and pull it off.
Step 22 – FRONT SWAY BAR
Some people may have already done this, but, unbolt the 4 13mm bolts holding the sway bar onto place. Let the sway bar hang on the engine cradle.
Step 23 – GROUND STRAPS
I cannot stress this enough. WATCH OUT for the many ground straps. Keep a lookout and make sure you don’t forget them or you will tear them while you drop the engine or lift the body.
Step 24 – ALTERNATOR
Use a 13mm socket to remove the “constant power” nut on the back of the alternator.
Step 25 –HYDRAULIC THROWOUT BEARING
The throw-out bearing has a quick-connect at the tranny. Use a radiator hook to push in on the Teflon release sleeve and pull to disconnect it from the transmission.
Step 26 – AUTO’S ONLY!!! SHIFTER CABLE
Now you remove the shifter cable from the transmission shift arm and the mount for it. Use the radiator hook to pull up on the lock pin in the cable housing to release the lock it has mounted. Also on the Auto’s, take the 3 15mm torque converter bolts accessible through the opening where the starter used to be.
Step 27 – Y-PIPE
If you have an ORY, simply unhook it and go. If you have a catted y, the exhaust on the back of the cats will need to be removed as well.
Step 28 – DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL
Remove the U-joint bolt-on caps and slide the driveshaft forward slightly to release it from the pinion. If the rear-end is hanging at full droop clearance may be an issue. Pull it out. Simple.
Step 29 – TORQUE ARM BRACKET
Take the top bolt out on the trans-mounted torque-arm bracket and bend it so the bushing will barely clear the bracket. Time to earn it now. Work the torque arm towards the driver’s side of the vehicle. It is a “picky” deal, you will have to play with it for a little while but if you do it once, the next time won’t be as hard.
Step 30 – OIL PRESSURE SENDER
Now we disconnect the oil pressure sender at the back of the intake on top of the valley plate, Also disconnect the hose plugged into the manifold just below that.
07-21-2005, 11:13 PM
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Step 31 – SPEED SENSORS
Now we can remove the front wheel speed sensors. They are on the A-Arms frame mount for both front wheels.
Step 32 - MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY REMOVING THE SHIFTER
Un-snap the boot around the shifter, remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the shifter, and slide it on out. Afetrmarket shifters, you know what you gotta do.
Step – 33 LAST SHOCK TOWER BOLTS
Get whatever you are going to put the engine on under the car now, and put the suspension mounts down out of the wheelwells.
Step 34 – TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER
Remove the 4 15mm bolts holding the cross member.
Step 35 – START SLOWLY, EXPRESS SLOWLY, JACKING
Do this slowly so we can check it all out and not mess anything up.
Step 36 – STEERING ARM
As the cradle is being separated, wiggle the steering arm to separate the u-joint.
Step 37 - WATCH
Well, watch very closely. We don’t want to damage anything.
Step 38 – ENGINE CRADLE
Lower the vehicle down on the lift and remove the 3 18mm bolts from both sides of the cradle. 6 bolts in all..
Step 39 – LIFT
Lift the car over the engine.
This is what we are shooting for.
Step 40 – YEA ONE MORE STEP
DRINK YOUR *** OFF AND CONGRATS ON YOUR PULL. BEER IS NOT A GOOD IDEAL DURING THE PULL, JUST AFTERWARDS.
Last but not least, this instruction may or may not be a complete list of what needs to be done and in no way will I take responsibility for it or you trying to remove the engine. This is just to be used as a guide-line, nothing more. I have only done this 3 times and this works for me, maybe a few other people will add a faster way or other “shortcuts” to save time. I will definitely be checking up to see.
Also, GM truck removal and Corvette removal threads will be coming soon if this one doesn’t get bashed too hard. I’m sure I forgot something, a plug, a this a that, you just have to play it by ear a little. Another thing will be installation coming soon as well. Assuming this doesn’t get bashed too hard.
Now we can remove the front wheel speed sensors. They are on the A-Arms frame mount for both front wheels.
Step 32 - MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY REMOVING THE SHIFTER
Un-snap the boot around the shifter, remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the shifter, and slide it on out. Afetrmarket shifters, you know what you gotta do.
Step – 33 LAST SHOCK TOWER BOLTS
Get whatever you are going to put the engine on under the car now, and put the suspension mounts down out of the wheelwells.
Step 34 – TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER
Remove the 4 15mm bolts holding the cross member.
Step 35 – START SLOWLY, EXPRESS SLOWLY, JACKING
Do this slowly so we can check it all out and not mess anything up.
Step 36 – STEERING ARM
As the cradle is being separated, wiggle the steering arm to separate the u-joint.
Step 37 - WATCH
Well, watch very closely. We don’t want to damage anything.
Step 38 – ENGINE CRADLE
Lower the vehicle down on the lift and remove the 3 18mm bolts from both sides of the cradle. 6 bolts in all..
Step 39 – LIFT
Lift the car over the engine.
This is what we are shooting for.
Step 40 – YEA ONE MORE STEP
DRINK YOUR *** OFF AND CONGRATS ON YOUR PULL. BEER IS NOT A GOOD IDEAL DURING THE PULL, JUST AFTERWARDS.
Last but not least, this instruction may or may not be a complete list of what needs to be done and in no way will I take responsibility for it or you trying to remove the engine. This is just to be used as a guide-line, nothing more. I have only done this 3 times and this works for me, maybe a few other people will add a faster way or other “shortcuts” to save time. I will definitely be checking up to see.
Also, GM truck removal and Corvette removal threads will be coming soon if this one doesn’t get bashed too hard. I’m sure I forgot something, a plug, a this a that, you just have to play it by ear a little. Another thing will be installation coming soon as well. Assuming this doesn’t get bashed too hard.
Last edited by 2000_LS1; 07-24-2005 at 07:49 PM.
07-22-2005, 08:33 AM
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Excellent write up... nominate for a sticky! I have been asking myself this question for a while now.
Need's to go into a howto section, or be submitted to install university
Need's to go into a howto section, or be submitted to install university
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07-22-2005, 08:43 AM
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Thanks, I am looking for people to provide pics, I cannot resize mine, and add the arrows to point out particular bolts/nuts and stuff.
Also like said, truck, and Vette coming soon, by the end of next week. The installation guide as well.
Also like said, truck, and Vette coming soon, by the end of next week. The installation guide as well.
07-22-2005, 07:30 PM
#13
Do a search under my past posts I have pics of the way I do it with out a lift. The one thing I would like to add to your write. You removed a lot of stuff that I leave and remove with motor and trany as it is way easier to remove when you have the whole thing out I take the wiring harness starter trany and even the Ypipe depending one what kind they are and just a few things and way that it can be done differently and achieve the same results without takeing as much off while it is in the car I have been removeing them from the bottom for a long time since the 80's. So if I can shine any light on the subject feel free to ask I'd be glad to help I have given instructions over the phone numerous times. I have a lot of pictures and can usually tell you the tools and size of the bolt to get you 100% there with confidince if a write up doesn't cut it for some of you feel free to pm me or what ever. Good information.
07-22-2005, 11:51 PM
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Alright, will do. Also the truck and Corvette will be coming soon. Working on the Vette now, I have the shifter removal in the thansmission forum already done, https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/354491-step-step-shifter-removal-corvette-owners.html, I will need pics of the engine areas described above.
Inspector, I do take it out with the y-pipe, I just disonnect at the back of teh y, I'll fix the thread and make it a little more understandable/readable. Also, ls1_2000@yahoo.com is the email, feel free to send me some pics, anyone for that matter, of detailed areas. Would especially like the Steering shaft, Quick Connect at the trans,and the wiring harness in and out of the car.
As far as the starter goes I do that to get to the Converter bolts on Auto's, on Manuals I don't personally do it.
Inspector, I do take it out with the y-pipe, I just disonnect at the back of teh y, I'll fix the thread and make it a little more understandable/readable. Also, ls1_2000@yahoo.com is the email, feel free to send me some pics, anyone for that matter, of detailed areas. Would especially like the Steering shaft, Quick Connect at the trans,and the wiring harness in and out of the car.
As far as the starter goes I do that to get to the Converter bolts on Auto's, on Manuals I don't personally do it.
07-23-2005, 12:23 AM
#16
I am just reading what you have listed in your write up and that is why I pointed out those few items as I wasn't sure what you were doing it for etc... I saw where you said you were unpluging the crank position sensor etc... Not sure why? I am just giving you a few things to elaborate on etc... I have pics of all the stuff you are looking for it is just on my computere and I am between houses so the computer is stored etc... That is why I was telling you to look it up from my post history I know a few of them are there for sure it was a while back. Looks promissing I had some one ask me to do it a while back it is a lot of work I didn't want to take the time for it so keep up the good work.
