Breaking in YOUR forged 346.
08-23-2005, 12:34 PM
#1
Breaking in YOUR forged 346. How did you break in your motor when you had it forged? Like you'd break-in a stock engine or much different? Any tricks or tips to breaking one in?
Did you have any problems you feel might be directly related to breaking it in too hard or even not hard enough? What do forged internals like most?
Did you have any problems you feel might be directly related to breaking it in too hard or even not hard enough? What do forged internals like most?
08-23-2005, 01:49 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by y2khawk
up to temp, check fluids, drive it like I stole it 
that's just me though
that's just me though
Quite a few builders recommend that too.
08-23-2005, 02:55 PM
#7
Originally Posted by y2khawk
up to temp, check fluids, drive it like I stole it
that's just me though
that's just me though
yep.....though I say stay out of high RPM area for a few 100 miles/a few heat cycles just to let things seat (probably does not matter but it helps me sleep at night)......
this is pulled from Darton's install guide for their Wets (which is why I use it):
BREAK–IN,TUNING
Fill the engine with a good grade of mineral oil (not synthetic) with viscosity for
your bearing clearance and intended use. Prime the oil system before engine
start with ignition off using the engine or dyno starter. We require break–in and
tuning using an engine dyno or chassis dyno as follows:
∑After initial start up, warm up engine at 2000–2500, at no more than
100–150 ft. pounds of torque for 15–30 minutes. Precaution should be
exercised to prevent excessively rich or lean conditions, which will gall
the cylinders. Monitor oil pressure and temperatures.
∑After initial run, adjust valves if using adjustable valve train and re–torque
heads. Check for leaks.
∑Street engines will require multiple run–ins with increasing rpm and load
up to maximum output.
A street engine should be driven moderately for the first thousand miles, as follows:
NO TES:
• full throttle high torque power usage should be limited and never be used
until the engine has been running for at least 15 minutes.
• from 0–500 miles, do not exceed 4000 rpm.
• from 500–1000, do not exceed 6000 rpm.
• over 1000 miles, no restrictions.
Fill the engine with a good grade of mineral oil (not synthetic) with viscosity for
your bearing clearance and intended use. Prime the oil system before engine
start with ignition off using the engine or dyno starter. We require break–in and
tuning using an engine dyno or chassis dyno as follows:
∑After initial start up, warm up engine at 2000–2500, at no more than
100–150 ft. pounds of torque for 15–30 minutes. Precaution should be
exercised to prevent excessively rich or lean conditions, which will gall
the cylinders. Monitor oil pressure and temperatures.
∑After initial run, adjust valves if using adjustable valve train and re–torque
heads. Check for leaks.
∑Street engines will require multiple run–ins with increasing rpm and load
up to maximum output.
A street engine should be driven moderately for the first thousand miles, as follows:
NO TES:
• full throttle high torque power usage should be limited and never be used
until the engine has been running for at least 15 minutes.
• from 0–500 miles, do not exceed 4000 rpm.
• from 500–1000, do not exceed 6000 rpm.
• over 1000 miles, no restrictions.
We also recommend you do not run synthetic oil until at
least 5000 miles. Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break
in properly if it is used too soon.
least 5000 miles. Synthetics work so well that the engine will never break
in properly if it is used too soon.
Last edited by 2001CamaroGuy; 08-23-2005 at 03:06 PM.
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08-23-2005, 03:29 PM
#9
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Im doing mostly what was stated in the above post. I've taken it easy on the first 500 miles and have barely been taking the rpm's higher than 5000. What I did do already was to change to synthetic oil at 500 miles.
08-23-2005, 05:01 PM
#11
Originally Posted by John02SS
I'm gonna run mine for 15-20 miles and drain the oil, put synthetic in it, retorque head bolts, and beat the brakes off it!
I wouldn't add synthetic that soon. Put some miles on there first.
You want to make sure everything is seated 100% as synthetic is too thin.
I suggest a couple hundred miles or at least one full day of driving before using synthetic.
08-23-2005, 05:03 PM
#12
Originally Posted by stang killer
idle for 30 mins to break in the bearings, strap it on the dyno.
This is what I do as well.
Do a couple of heat cycles if the springs are brand new. After that your ready for tuning and tyno time.
I had 5 miles on my last car before it was on the dyno and 3 full heat cycles.
Runs like a champ.
08-23-2005, 06:42 PM
#14
... good info folks. Thanks a lot. It's gonna' be hard to hold the rpm's down for that first few hundered miles ... or even for the first 5 miles, for that matter. I'm doing a 100 shot, while it's getting forged, as well. This means I can't spray 'til it's broke in, huh!? 
Well, it looks like this calls for a long weekend ride ... with the tops out ... and I just know that damned very first brand new '06 C6 Z06 will come up and mess with me ... probably some smartass rich kid whose daddy bought it for him for an early graduation present. He'll have some skinny little chick with him ... AND I WON'T EVEN BE ABLE TO RACE HIM!!!!!
LOL!!!! 
I ALWAYS have that kind of luck ... 
Well, it looks like this calls for a long weekend ride ... with the tops out ... and I just know that damned very first brand new '06 C6 Z06 will come up and mess with me ... probably some smartass rich kid whose daddy bought it for him for an early graduation present. He'll have some skinny little chick with him ... AND I WON'T EVEN BE ABLE TO RACE HIM!!!!!
LOL!!!! I ALWAYS have that kind of luck ...
08-23-2005, 07:34 PM
#16
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Camaroguy has the closest writeup to what i do. First i warm it up on petrol based oil then dump it, put in more petrol based, and then i drive it varying the rpm but nothing high or full load for 500 miles. Its a load and wash thing especially if the car is new. Load the surfaces then let off and let it wash into the filter, load and wash, load and wash, its like the final machining of the motor. Then i change it again and hit it hard with petrol based for 2000 miles. Then synthetic.
I think all surfaces will last longer progressing into it. There is a lot of microscopic stuff wearing off in the first 500 miles with all new pieces.
I think all surfaces will last longer progressing into it. There is a lot of microscopic stuff wearing off in the first 500 miles with all new pieces.
Last edited by BOONE; 08-24-2005 at 04:25 PM.
08-23-2005, 08:18 PM
#18
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I've always followed the break it in like your gonna run it theory, usually a warm up check the fluids take it for a spin, make sure nothings abnormal retorque and run the **** out of it.. 
Greg
Greg
