Casey98Z

i have a 98 z28 and i'm thinking about putting a new cam in, nothing wild, just for the street with racing every so often, wanna hit 12's if possible, probably getting pacesetter LTs and ORY with Hooker cat back, other mod will prob be a converter, most likely 3000-3300........the question is which cam would be ideal for this set-up with no other mods...no tune or head work.........converter suggestions are welcome too......car is a DD

Crazy Man

iTrader: (6)

Please refer to the cam sticky jrps cam guide at top of page...

titaniumSS

iTrader: (1)

You'll probably want a tune just so your car doesn't surge from adjusting to the new cam. Just to make it smooth. What year car? 98 Z i'm guessing? If so then you could hit 12's on bolt ons alone. How deep in the 12's are you looking to go? Texas Speed has a 225/225 cam that might work for you, or even the 220 if you don't wanna go 225. They're both relatively small cams. Futral has the FM12 that isn't too bad. I'd just look at something in the 220-226 range, those cams won't be too hard on your car and they'll give you decent power gains and you'll hit 12's with them.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Let's see...A4 with headers, ORY, catback, lid, pulley & 3000+ converter with a goal of 12s. To acheive that, leave the stock cam in the car. Seriously, that is a mid 12 second car with a set of DRs on the back. Low 12s in good air.

If you are not getting a tune; don't touch the cam. Sure you can put in a 212/218 114 and not worry, but even a good small street cam like a 220/220 112 will drive and run much better tuned.

Casey98Z

i did hear one thing about running a converter without a cam tho.......i hear there was a lot of lag in the tranny, thats really the main reason for the cam idea

PREDATOR-Z

I ran 3500 TCI on stock cam, even before headers, no issues. Just need to tune for TC though.
A tune is amust for the majority of mods to get their full potential.
Most good Dyno tuners will charge 500 initial fee and then to update, it is just Dyno time.
May I recomment a VIG 3200. I've had it for over a year and I love it.
(BTW, the TCI went South on me after 1 year, slipping and chatering)

fastbasser

iTrader: (1)

If you are doing a cam, get it tuned. There are several "mail order tunes" that can get close. Only good way is on a dyno.

If at all possible, drive a car (or cars) with different stall convertors. One mans "streetable" is anothers nightmare. My buddy has a Yank ss3600, another has a ss3200. Both feel they are a little too loose. I have a SY3500.. Wish it was a tad bigger. Go figure!!

A convertor alone will make a noticable difference! If you put in a cam, do a convertor.

Casey98Z

thanks guys for all the input, read alot about this stuff, but nothing like askin a veteran! appreciate it

dudas35

iTrader: (4)

Just to piggy-back on this thread if it is ok. What is the max lift without being hard on the valvetrain that you would use on a stock 241 head casting. I know you can go above .600 lift but on stock heads what is the use. Would you really gain anymore out of it? If your stock heads (i don't know the exact numbers) doesn't flow anymore above .550 why go any bigger? So what i am looking for is a good cam without going to the max lift for the heads. Any ideas?

Casey98Z

piggy-back all you want, thats a good quest., curious too???

dudas35

iTrader: (4)

Anyone?

s346k

iTrader: (4)

putting a bigger cam in now would save you from having to do so if you were to change heads down the road. also, i think the same cam with .6 lift vs .550 lift would show a difference in power, like it would be in the .6 lift cam's favor. if that was the case, all of the big cams would have .550 lift and mad duration.

titaniumSS

iTrader: (1)

You want the biggest cam you can use on stock heads and pistons? Sounds like you want the Magic Stick cam from TSP, its the one i'm getting but you'll also need 3.73's and its not exactly the best for a DD. 237/242 .603/.609 113 lsa. Go with a 226 or something and if its not enough add a small shot of nitrous, say 100 shot and it'll still be pretty good for a DD.

BlackZCamaro

iTrader: (1)

Casey98Z, I have to ask, what's your altitude? That is one thing to consider when doing mods. sometimes it takes a lot more than a person thinks because of the thinner air, other times, conditions are very optimal for people. Look at it this way, for every 1000 feet above sealevel, that's -roughly- .2 you will lose to Density Altitude. Modded auto cars without cams are hella fast, but depending on where you are, you may need more mods than others. Just a little something to chew on before you dive into modding head-first. Good luck with whatever you do though!

CaptUSA

iTrader: (5)

Definately plan on a tune. Even if you have to suck it up and save for another couple of months, you'll be glad you did. Headers can be tunes, the TC should be tunes, the cam Needs to be tuned.... etc.... The TR224 from thunderracing is an everyday favorite for a lot of guys on site here. It's small enough to give you a 'stockish' ride for your DD, but large enough to make some serious HP when you want it. There is a cam called the "Old Man Cam" also from TR that does not NEED to be tuned in an A4 car. It's a 215/220 with .600 lift on a 115 LSA. The lift scares a lot of people, but those that have done it love it.

Good luck on your build up!!

dudas35

iTrader: (4)

That is exactly why people buy big cams because they think that they will get much more power from a high lift. You are right if you may in the future buy heads. If you know you were never going to buy new heads what would the optimal lift for stock heads be?

Casey98Z

for BlackZCamaro, good question....altitude is awesome, from NJ........track of choice is an east coast legend for E.T records and MPH....Englishtown and second track i use is Atco, not too bad either.........not exactly sure but i think both are very close to sea level, so hoping the mods will step up good with the good air