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What valvetrain

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Old 01-20-2006, 01:25 PM
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Default What valvetrain

I posted this in the Forced Induction section but wanted to see what the cam experts have to say.
I just ordered the D1SC kit and want to swap out the factory cam while doing the blower install.
I think I am going to order the FM7 unless you guys have some better suggestions.
What type of springs should I go with? I have been searching all night and have not found anyone running the Manley duels in the Futral kit.
Does anyone have any input on these?
My goals are 550 rwhp.
How do aftermarket springs sound, loud?
Will the valvetrain be more audible?
I will get TI retainers, pushrods ect...I just want to do this only once.
How long do springs last, would it be safe to assume that if I go with a spring capable of more lift (.650) vs. a set of 918 at (.600) on the same cam that the .650 lift springs will last longer due to not being pushed as hard (to its limits)?

The car has 9,400 miles, I dont need a timing chain, oil pump, or anything else do I?

Thanks
Old 01-21-2006, 11:40 AM
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Does anyone have any input, not getting anything from the FI guys.
Thanks
Old 01-21-2006, 11:51 AM
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I'd go with the 921's. I have the 918's with my baby cam and when it's time to swap, i'm going with the 921's.
Old 01-21-2006, 03:11 PM
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if ur goin with forced induction be sure to replace the pistons with pistons made for forced induction or you'll torch em
Old 01-21-2006, 09:16 PM
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Any other suggestions. What about the oil pump and timing chain?
No one uses the Manleys huh?
Old 01-21-2006, 11:01 PM
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Manleys are fine. If it were me, I'd get the patriot gold kit. Very economical and a good spring.

Pat gold kit = 230ish
921 kit = 560ish
Old 01-22-2006, 05:21 AM
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921's are good insurance, but you could get away with 918's with no problems. lots of people run them well into .600 lift.
Old 01-22-2006, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
921's are good insurance, but you could get away with 918's with no problems. lots of people run them well into .600 lift.
I agree. I'm doing slightly over .600" with 918's and have had no problems, but I would also recommend the double roller timing chain and if it is an LS1, getting the SLP kit for your oil pump. If you are keeping the stock bottom end, you will have to limit your boost to 6psi.

Last edited by zo6vetteman2003; 01-22-2006 at 05:50 AM.
Old 01-22-2006, 05:47 AM
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I would say that the LS2 set is just as good for what you are going to be using the car for. I have said this before too. "If the LS2 timing set is good enough for the C5-R, it is good enough for your strip/DD car" Plus all the shims and the tight chain. It is like doing twice the work for the same assurance virtually.
Old 01-22-2006, 07:36 AM
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With boost spring pressures become a concern. Even if you were not gonna swap cams, I would still swap springs.
Old 01-22-2006, 10:17 AM
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All right, this is what I am leaning towards.
Patriot duel kit
Comp pushrods
FM7 cam or a custom from Speed Inc. with relitively close specs.
224/230 .588/.595 114 LSA
Does this look like it will all work well together and be reliable?

Also I am a little confused, do I need to upgrade the oil pump and timing chain or am I ok.

Thanks again,
Old 01-22-2006, 10:25 AM
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I would lean more towards softer lobes:
224/230 duration, .568"/.573", 114lsa +0

No need for pump and chain change at this moment IMO, but if you insist just chain (LS2)
Old 01-22-2006, 04:59 PM
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OK, how come though, is it to hard on the springs with that much lift?

Thanks
Old 01-22-2006, 05:00 PM
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remember it is getting blown if that makes any difference.
Old 01-22-2006, 05:17 PM
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With a blown car, instead of vacuum on one side of the motor (which helps suck the valves shut), you have boost.
Old 01-22-2006, 05:38 PM
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With those low miles I would not worry much about the chain or oil pump. I swapped out the stock cam at 4K miles and left the stock pump and chain and everything is fine at 30K. Although if you swap cams you might as well throw an LS2 chain on as their very cheap. Stock oil pump should be fine with those low miles.




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