cam motion or xer lobes???
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The Cammotion lobes are not as aggressive as the XER lobes. It directly affects PTV, since most of the XER cams also have hefty durations, but most cams will still fit in a stock set up. Need to check PTV on the cam once you mill the heads. It also affects spring wear.
The "+" means degress of advance ground into the cam. Increasing the number moves the HP peak and curve earlier and down a little and increases low-end torque. You lose some high end HP, though. I haven't seen any +5 grinds, mostly +2 or +4. Cams can have no advance +0 (usually left off) or be retarded "-x", too.
The "+" means degress of advance ground into the cam. Increasing the number moves the HP peak and curve earlier and down a little and increases low-end torque. You lose some high end HP, though. I haven't seen any +5 grinds, mostly +2 or +4. Cams can have no advance +0 (usually left off) or be retarded "-x", too.
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The XE-R lobes are "bigger" for a givin duration, which means they are a bit more aggressive. The valve will open sooner on the XE-R by a small margin allowing more flow for a givin duration vs. it's competitor. This will directly effect your low end power. On the other hand, were talking about a degree or 2 in duration, it's not like it's alot of HP givin both lobes are the same .050" duration. Advancing the cam will bring the power on sooner in the rpm band, but it will also fall off the same amount on the top end. Advancing should be selected by what you are going to do with the car. Alot of street driving would like more advance for that "off idle" grunt, but the track car would like no advance because you are working in the higher rpm's. The higher the rpm's, the more air you can move, thus making more power.
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
The XE-R lobes are "bigger" for a givin duration, which means they are a bit more aggressive. The valve will open sooner on the XE-R by a small margin allowing more flow for a givin duration vs. it's competitor. This will directly effect your low end power. On the other hand, were talking about a degree or 2 in duration, it's not like it's alot of HP givin both lobes are the same .050" duration. Advancing the cam will bring the power on sooner in the rpm band, but it will also fall off the same amount on the top end. Advancing should be selected by what you are going to do with the car. Alot of street driving would like more advance for that "off idle" grunt, but the track car would like no advance because you are working in the higher rpm's. The higher the rpm's, the more air you can move, thus making more power.
ok so if the car is going to see 50/50 street and track time then would i go for a +2 or keep it retarded???
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Originally Posted by ls1_cam2
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ok so if the car is going to see 50/50 street and track time then would i go for a +2 or keep it retarded???
ok so if the car is going to see 50/50 street and track time then would i go for a +2 or keep it retarded???
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Originally Posted by black_z
What cam are you running? For a larger cam (230+ on I and E) I would go +4. For a smaller cam, +0 or +2. I am more about area under the curve than peak #'s though. I would rather make 390/385 then 400/370. Another factor to consider is how comfortable you are spinning your motor to a higher RPM, what gears (possibly stall) you have.
Also I know that the XER lobes tend to put more wear and tear on the springs, but how often will I have to replace or check???
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#8
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Originally Posted by ls1_cam2
Well i will be purchasing either the F14 or Torquer so i guess for that size cam i would go for a +4 or +5.
Also I know that the XER lobes tend to put more wear and tear on the springs, but how often will I have to replace or check???
Also I know that the XER lobes tend to put more wear and tear on the springs, but how often will I have to replace or check???
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No, off the shelf cams are +0; you have to ask for advance/retard to be ground in. I've noticed the advertised power band of the Comp lobes starts lower for similar sized cams. I assumed it was because the more agressive lobes get the intakes open sooner down low for more power quicker.
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Originally Posted by FUN LS1
No, off the shelf cams are +0; you have to ask for advance/retard to be ground in.
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I say both cams are very similar. If you have 4 degrees of advance ground in (+4) it will help bring the power band down and 6400-6500 shouldn't be a problem.
I did however believe you were looking into a 114LSA.
If so then the +4 will defentially be needed for what your trying to accomplish.
I have seen some go as far as +5 but not too often. Seem like if your wanting 5 degrees built in then a bit smaller cam might be a good idea or a different lobe seperation is needed.
Also the F13 is available like we talked about and as said before the power band isn't always exact. Next time you swing by the shop I will pull up the 232/234 cam only setup on the computer and show you his dyno sheets. This might help you in your decision. That is almost exactly what your combo will be.
Stock heads, all bolt ons, with a ported TB and LS6 intake.
Sorry I didn't think of that before.
I did however believe you were looking into a 114LSA.
If so then the +4 will defentially be needed for what your trying to accomplish.
I have seen some go as far as +5 but not too often. Seem like if your wanting 5 degrees built in then a bit smaller cam might be a good idea or a different lobe seperation is needed.
Also the F13 is available like we talked about and as said before the power band isn't always exact. Next time you swing by the shop I will pull up the 232/234 cam only setup on the computer and show you his dyno sheets. This might help you in your decision. That is almost exactly what your combo will be.
Stock heads, all bolt ons, with a ported TB and LS6 intake.
Sorry I didn't think of that before.
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
112+2 is not the same as 110+0. You've tightened the LSA with the 110, thus changing power band and overlap. Lots of people get that confused, but LSA and advance are two diffrent things.