icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

just got the car together friday, started up right off, ran great with good oil pressure and such. did 4 exhibitions saturday and the car was amazing to drive, but after the first one sunday i developed rod knock and low oil pressure. i'm sure i've spun a bearing so a rebuild is in order, but i need suggestions on what i can do to keep the motor happy at sustained high rpm use. the car is used for drifting so my foot is on the floor for extended periods of time and i'm thinking the stock pump either didn't like it or was cavitating somehow.

my real questions:
-what oil pump should i get my hands on?
-what type of oil would you recommend (i was running mobil1 10w-30)?
-an oil cooler is surely in order, recommendations there?
-should i run an accusump for extra safety?
-what about valvetrain so i can run the limiter up closer to 7k? (right now it's at stock 6200)

edit: my engine is an LS1 from a 2002 WS6 if it helps.

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

my real questions:
-what oil pump should i get my hands on? = ported LS6
-what type of oil would you recommend (i was running mobil1 10w-30)? = i use the same oil and i spin it to 7k almost every day.
-an oil cooler is surely in order, recommendations there? for continuous high RMP's its definately a must.
-should i run an accusump for extra safety? if you have big bux then knock yourself out..
-what about valvetrain so i can run the limiter up closer to 7k? (right now it's at stock 6200) shaft mount rockers, new lifters, and while your in there might as well do a cam.

thats my "easy" answer to your question

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

ported LS6 pump is what you should use... oil cooler isnt really nessecary, and your valvetrain could use springs and hardned pushrods.

what happend to your motor is that it starved for oil. the oil in the pan actualy moved away from the pickup tube and it couldnt get it. there are diffrent solutions to that problem. if you can use a vette oil pan with the wings it helps, but most of the time it wont fit becuase its huge. the simplest solution is to do what most the road racing guys do. run an extra quart of oil in the motor. it keeps enough oil around the pickup tube so it dosent starve the motor. the correct way to fix this problem is to switch to a dry sump oil system which is expensive

Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

Exactly what these guys said.

You did the same exact thing I did. I ran it hard on Woodward for a good half hour at high RPMs and heard a rod knock afterwards. I limped it home and tore it down that weekend and I spun cylinder 1 and 2 rod bearings. Since you are drifting and staying in extended high RPM use I would suggest you buy the Clevite77 "H" series bearings. I have P series in mine but the H series are for engines that plan on staying in high RPM. You can pick those up cheap anywhere but I would recommend SDPC. Like cop car said you should be running a quart extra just so it doesnt starve your bearings but real way to fix that is with a dry sump. Be prepared to spend thousands on it. I would invest into a ported LS6 pump, Stiffer springs (personally I am going to use the Patriot Golds, you cant beat the price) hardened push rods and those Clevite H bearings. You would definately want to upgrade Rollmaster Double roller since the car will be drifting. You will be clutch kicking and heal toe shifting like crazy and you dont want the chain to snap on a hard clutch kick. I am rebuilding my engine right now so if you need pointers you can AIM me. Good Luck!

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the answers everyone. i guess i'll start ordering parts now so i can get it done in the next few weeks. i'll wait on the bearings until i can inspect the real damage and pray that the crank is ok.

slo, you'll likely be hearing from me.

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

another question... what cam would everyone suggest for a mild power boost and slightly better top end flow? i'm not planning on doing heads, maybe some mild porting to the stockers. again, my target rev limit is around 7k on a pretty stock motor.

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

For cam, I'd go w/ something that doesn't have harsh lobes for longevity's sake, talk to someone like EDC and get a custom grind.
If you're serious about doing this, go dry sump.

matula11

iTrader: (2)

has anyone tried the canton road race pan, that might be something to look into. also what about the stock rod bolts, will they hold past 7000 reliably?

Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

He wont be able to use the Road race pan, Since 240's are rear steer we have to you a front sump oil pan. I dont believe they make one for a GTO. Rod bolts are a MUST. Those things are made of asparugus and chocolate. Get the ARP pro bolts, 90 bucks. I actually called ARP today and had to get 2 bolts... I wont explain.

As for the cam you'll def want a custom cam. Usually the cams that make power higher in the power band have real agressive lobes. I wouldnt worry about power just torque right where you want it. Call TSP they hook you up.

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

does anyone know of a GTO pan that has trap door baffles in it? dry sump would be cool just terribly expensive.