Time for a cam but which one.. ASA or Hotcam
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: kentucky
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Time for a cam but which one.. ASA or Hotcam
well my father has decided to get me a cam package for my christmas gift since all i do is spend time on my car.Well the car is daily driven every day no time off.so i think the magic stick and trex is to much for me ..but i love the sound of the ASA cam and hot cam plus the a lil easier on the valvetrain from what i hear and make decent power.just looking for 360+ hp somewere close to 400 with boltons i have . so what you think is better hot cam or the asa cam .also were can i purchase these cam packages at i cant remember the place that sells them .thanks
#2
ЯєŧąяĐ Єl¡m¡иąŧøя ™
iTrader: (18)
Neither cam. You don't have to be bottom of the barrel or off the spectrum in cam choices. Just something tasteful that will work well with your mods. The hotcam is proven, and yes makes good power, but I have a feeling you will want more eventually. The ASA cam is like the hotcam. Low lift and high duration. Sure it is nice on the springs, but you don't want the ASA cam. It is a road race tailored cam. You will find that you will make better power with this reversed. .630 lift cam with a 230 duration will go miles over 400rwhp in an M6 car. I can tell that you must have been looking on SDPC's page. Which don't rule them out at all for parts and supplies. You can get a better bang for your buck if you piece it together outside of a 1,500$ kit though. I think that you would look at a mid 220 cam like the 224/224 or the 222/226 or 228r cams. You are going to need to replace springs regardless. Go to Thunder Racing or TSP for purchase. They can price out a packaged deal that doesnt have ls6 springs, and can take more of a beating and make some good power.
you are going to want Springs and Hardened/Chromoly pushords for sure. Retainers are up to you. I would suggest the titanium retainers though. I run them with both of my setups.
you are going to want Springs and Hardened/Chromoly pushords for sure. Retainers are up to you. I would suggest the titanium retainers though. I run them with both of my setups.
#3
ЯєŧąяĐ Єl¡m¡иąŧøя ™
iTrader: (18)
After the install, ditch that Power Programmer and have a dyno tune performed. You will have a regular power house. Make sure you do your research before you jump into anything though. You can end up a greyhound with a 300 pound collar and just drag *** everywhere if you are not careful in selection. I see you already have gears for a bigger cam, so why not? You need springs anyway remember?
Make sure that you get more than just a few suggestions and tips from different people. Lots of knowledgeable people on this board. You can find the answers you need here. I don't claim to know much about cars, but I can definitely tell you what you want to stay away from from my own personal experiences with it.
Make sure that you get more than just a few suggestions and tips from different people. Lots of knowledgeable people on this board. You can find the answers you need here. I don't claim to know much about cars, but I can definitely tell you what you want to stay away from from my own personal experiences with it.
Trending Topics
#8
On The Tree
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For a daily driver you aren't limited to an ASA or hotcam. You'd be surprised at how a good tune can make a bigger cam very driveable. A cam swap isn't the hardest thing in the world, but I'd rather do it once than twice. Do it once, do it right, otherwise you'll end up like me wishing you would've gone bigger.
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Orange Park/ Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,075
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WOW! Didnt know there were so many ASA cam haters out there. If you're looking for #'s, I put down 392rwhp & 373rwtq with mods in my sig. Here's a link to my dyno thread(CLICK HERE!) . FWIW, these guys are right, youre not limited to these 2 cams, there are plenty of good cams to choose from, just do your homework (took me 2 yrs. to decide on this one).
P.S. my car is daily driven 50-75mi. per day
P.S. my car is daily driven 50-75mi. per day
Last edited by JBIRD02; 12-03-2006 at 10:21 AM.
#15
Launching!
you people, hennytime included, must love changing springs , i dont want to put that kinda load on my valvetrain I want a low maintainence spring setup. ASA or Hot make good turque, are cheap, and easy on springs. I know we will be leaving power on the table so to speak, but do it once and forget about it
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Originally Posted by 35thUCF
you people, hennytime included, must love changing springs , i dont want to put that kinda load on my valvetrain I want a low maintainence spring setup. ASA or Hot make good turque, are cheap, and easy on springs. I know we will be leaving power on the table so to speak, but do it once and forget about it
#17
Super Hulk Smash
iTrader: (7)
How many people really keep their cars for 150k miles anymore? Really? The XE-R lobe and similar lobes don't usually kill a good double spring even after 25-35k miles. Even if you drive 12-15k miles a year, you're looking at a two year interval to check the springs. You'll change your oil more than that. If you don't want to check that, then maybe you should just do bolt-ons or leave the car stock. Modding is a hobby and a responsibility. If you feel it's a hassle, then I don't know what to tell you. Checking your car once or twice every year is something you should do even with it stock, just to avoid problems. After all, it is a mechanical and things wear down and break.
Horsepower for me is a nice by-product of wrenching on the car. Go with the F13 from Futral or the Comp XE-R 224/228. Those are very good overall power cams I recommend to anyone who wants to really wake up the car but keep it livable. The F13 will be easier on the springs than the XE-R, and could probably last 50k miles on Comp 921s or 40k on PRCs.
Horsepower for me is a nice by-product of wrenching on the car. Go with the F13 from Futral or the Comp XE-R 224/228. Those are very good overall power cams I recommend to anyone who wants to really wake up the car but keep it livable. The F13 will be easier on the springs than the XE-R, and could probably last 50k miles on Comp 921s or 40k on PRCs.
#18
Originally Posted by orangeapeel
Neither cam. I think that you would look at a mid 220 cam like the 224/224 or the 222/226 or 228r cams. .
TR224@114 is what you should get! great street cam.
#19
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
I had an eastside cam that worked out very well when I had the stock motor in the car... it was a 224/228 581/588 lift cam, 113 lsa +2. With the 4.10's and the m6 it was very drivable, and made good power, 403 rwhp.387 tq thru the M6, with a steel driveshaft and a 12 bolt/4.10 setup.
Any cam in that area will work good for what you are looking for, just make sure you get someone to tune it that knows what they are doing, and the drivability will be great.
Any cam in that area will work good for what you are looking for, just make sure you get someone to tune it that knows what they are doing, and the drivability will be great.
#20
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by 35thUCF
you people, hennytime included, must love changing springs , i dont want to put that kinda load on my valvetrain I want a low maintainence spring setup. ASA or Hot make good turque, are cheap, and easy on springs. I know we will be leaving power on the table so to speak, but do it once and forget about it
I agree with Jake, if you're modding then this is a hobby. Check the springs. Even with the GM cams, you're spinning to 6600, you still want to check the springs?