LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Here's the deal: My car sits as it says in my sig. Just minor bolt ons and a set of gears. This winter I plan on modding it a bit but I'm kind of curious what the power increase will be. Plans are: LS6 intake W/ ported TB, Pacesetters W/ ORY, and a custom cam, 226/230@.050, .581/.588 lift with a 110+0 LSA using XE-R lobes. From what I have read, the LS6 intake is good for 10-15 HP, the headers anywhere from 15-35 HP, and the cam should be good for 35-50HP. Now, I know that I can't just stack the numbers like ricers do and get a power increase value, but I was thinking - certain mods compliment others. All of these mods benefit the other mods I am doing, so they may in fact give a larger power increase than what is typically seen. What I'm asking is, what kind of power am I looking at for this swap? Someone has to have done it before me and I'd like to hear what was gained. Thanks.

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

Be prepared to make it 4 rearends...LOL

I would imagine you will see 385-395. Maybe more....maybe a little less.

Should run nice though.

pdd

iTrader: (3)

luv the sig

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

+1 on the rearend

I would guess 390 - 400 based on dyno results I've seen. I've looked at several in the 224/228 - 228/232 range. I've seen some 224/224 114lsa cars make 400rwhp with all bolt-ons and a tune.

Good Luck!

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, the rearend is next on the list after the engine stuff. I am going to drive it 90% of the time on the street so I shouldn't need a rear that soon. Those will be great numbers if I can get them. I already know the car is stronger than most I have seen as it sits, most guys with similar mods at my track run 2-3 mph slower than me.

adillhoff

My 224/224 .581"/.581" 110 with 5.3L ported heads made 410/390 at the wheels. I am still running a 10-bolt. As long as you don't launch, and hook it, you won't break it.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

How does your car idle? Have a sound clip? I am hoping this cam will have a nasty idle to go along with great midrange torque.

ArrestMeRed99Z28

iTrader: (1)

I would add a little bit of advance to that cam if you will be sticking with stock heads and gaskets, to make up for the relatively low compression. It'll give you a little more torque in the midrange.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Having a narrow LSA is what will bump up my midrange torque. I specifically designed it to be installed straight up. The reason most people get cams 4 degrees advanced is to make up for choosing too large a cam in the first place. I am pretty sure it will work great as is. If not, I can always advance it.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

With 4.10s, straight up is probably a pretty good choice. IVC = 43 so it will have more grunt in the midrange than some of the big cams.

BayAreaSS

iTrader: (10)

You are going to have a strong running car. I think it will put down 390

ArrestMeRed99Z28

iTrader: (1)

Sorry misread your cam specs, it thought your duration was much higher, why did you decide to go with the reverse split?
I may start a thread or do some deep searching on this subject
AJ

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

390 maybe 400...a good choice for making power under the curve with that cam cam grind...a good set of heads with a nice tight quench will put you in the mid 400s..probably 15-20 HP higher if you add a 90\90 combo to it ..

eamador11

then why choose the 110LSA? your car will shake like mad and that will get old real fast! id consider a 114 so it has great street manners. youll get similar HP numbers only it will be very easy to tune and easier to drive around town.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Unless I missed something, I didn't see a reverse split mentioned in this thread. A reverse split usually has a larger intake duration than exhaust, where traditional splits offer more exhaust duration to help out a restrictive exhaust system.

My apology if I missed it.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

this is somewhat of a misconception, its overlap that makes a car shake real bad and lope hard. Overlap is a byproduct of longer durations and tighter LSA, but a short duration cam with a 110 LSA is a great street cam that builds a lot of low and mid-range torque where you can use it.

a 226/230 110lsa has 8 degrees of overlap
so does a 234/238 114lsa cam

The first cam should close the intake valve much sooner though, making much better average power below the peak. The second cam might make more power from 5000-7000 rpm, at the expense of power everywhere else.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Because I like a rowdy, mean sounding car. My old carbed Monte Carlo had an AFR headed 406 with a 240@.050/110 LSA cam and it ripped. Sounded awesome at idle as well. However, my main reason for using a tighter LSA is that it will maximize power under the curve.

As to why I didn't choose a single pattern cam, I felt as though the exhaust system could use the additional duration to help scavenge the combustion chamber better. Hammertime was correct, my cam design is a traditional split, not a reverse split.

Hawk108

iTrader: (1)

looks like a good setup that will be a strong runner for sure.....and i am really liking the way your cam looks

WeathermanShawn

iTrader: (1)

I like your cam choice. Sounds like you've done your homework.
Your car is already fast. I'll vote ~390-395HP.

You will like that 8 degrees of overlap. No sound clip here..running 9 deg.
You'll get noticed, but not too obnoxious. Idles perfectly at 775rpm.

Good luck..

PREDATOR-Z

You are running 10* overlap