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iTrader: (24)

as yall know, i've been playing (well more like suffering with the MS4) with the car's tune. i've read the sticky at the top but am not being able to get the car to drive around in. i'm wanting to know what you guys had to do, example drill a hole in the TB. i bumped the set stop screw to open the blade alittle more but still have SUPER high IAC readings in the 310's when in gear. and my brake pedal is hard like a rock, as iff i had lost my brake booster's vacuum tube. what did yall do to get to the tuning shop? just raise the idle and hope you didnt kill over while you drove there? or just hooked up the trailer and went to town? i'm just wondering basicallly what all the big cam ppl did to get their car to run without a tune to get to the shop. thanks in advance!!

rob2269

I had to take my computer off and send it to get tuned first before I was able to drive it around...once I got it back i was then able to drive it to the shop and get it properly tuned...i also had the same problems you are having with the MS4...

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iTrader: (24)

did the stiff brake pedal get cured with the tune or did you have to get a vacuum resivor?

side question, what numbers did you get? i'm going to have basically the same minuse the UD Pully. thanks

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

Jason loaded a rough idle tune, then I spent a long time street tuning it. Eventually ended up going to speed density and it starts on the first click and finds idle within 6 seconds now.

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

I'm still also working with my tune mostly fine tuning my idle and such. I'll need to take it to the dyno to go for another round of WOT tune after I'm done. As far as the brake that doesn't sounds right I did you check all your vacuum hoses. I did lost a bit of the Power brakes vacuum. After turning off the car of I get about one an a a quater pumps before my brake pedal becomes stiff if I remember correctly, before I would get about 2 full pumps.

Are you using HP tuners?
I can post my work in progress tune you can use it as a reference.

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iTrader: (24)

yeah i'm using HPTuners, are u having to run SD? did u have to drill the TB? TIA

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

No on both questions. I adjusted the throttle screw unitl it read 3% then I disconnected the throttle sensors turn the key to the on position and off again, reconnected the cables and turn the key back to the on possition to verify that HPTuners read the throttle as 0%. Then started tuning my raf tables. When the engine is warm I get around 63 iac at 900rpms. I'm currently have my idle set at 1000rpms so my iac are 78. I'm going to upload another tune on my car as it is running a bit rich and I'll see where I am. I'm really hoping to be able to set my idle at 900-950 rpms as I love the lope but at 1000rpms it is still sounds good.

yellowbird1232

iTrader: (3)

Jeremy Formato from fasterproms did the tune. After I installed th MS4 I never had a problem with the brakes, just the idle. Did not drill the throttle body just tuned it. I can drive it around like a daily driver, which I do.

h.o.ls1

iTrader: (2)

huh...i had no problems getting mine to the tune shop it like idled and everything then my buddy put hp tunings on it so it was a little easier but no really big prob. mine also is an m6 though so maybe thats why

turbo'd stang

That is actually a pretty easy cam to tune. That cam should idle very easily at 900.

Have you messed with the VE table?
Are you using a WB...if not, then you are not going to get a good tune.
Make sure you don't have a vacuum leak. No matter how good you are, if you have a vacuum leak, the car will not idle consistently and it will throw the whole tune off.

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

I uploaded a new tune that a guy at the HPTuners Board help me with. It is a lot better. Still having some minor startup idle issues when the engine is warm. But it is close.

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iTrader: (24)

do you mind puttin it up here? the car idles, real nice...in park lol, then once i stick it to Drive it try's to take off, i still havnt messed with the VE yet, i'm trying to get it to idle "nice" so i can get some more accurate readings. i'm going to reinstall the WB tommorw (superbowl sunday, non my teams no care lol) and hoping to get some readings to log

Beasst8

iTrader: (1)

I have an M6 but I drove my computer up to the tuner, he put in a base tune. The car cranked right up, no probs. Then drove the car up there for the dyno tune. Never had a problem!!

Killer_Bluebird

iTrader: (23)

Here you can use this for comparison. It should at least get you closer to where you want to be.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

It has been determined by people that know more than me (I think that Keith at HPTuners did a write up on their forum) that the set screw should not be opened except to get the car to run and then it should be closed again (even though you are zeroing out the TPS). Do a search for a full explanation on the HPtuners.com/forums as to why this should not be done..

Also, the bigger the cam the lower you will want your warm idle IAC count. The IAC motor is simply too slow to keep up with the idle fluctuation on a big cam. I have mine at like 30 (by drilling the hole bigger) and it still stumbles some times. I think I am going to go a little bigger. The idle spark over/under speed is where you want the PCM to look for corrections. Also, from reading and experiance, I have found that you want minimal spark corrections for over speed (negative spark). Basically you want the PCM to add spark as it starts to stumble below desired idle rpm. If it goes over, the IAC will close and it should bring it back down. IF you start pulling a bunch of spark, then it will start to overcompensate and surge while it hunts for the idle.