Strong Short Block for 300 shot
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Strong Short Block for 300 shot
My current Shortblock is pushing 105,000 miles & I think I am living on Borrowed time.
So I want to start putting a short block together now. Is it better to buy a short block already assembled or buy a Empty block & then buy Rods & Piston's.
My next question is I want to put down 6.80s on motor & then have a 2 stage Nitrous System, I haven't decided on if I want a Direct Port Nitrous System or one that goes through the TB. So is a 408 short block better I know more Cubes is better or just go for a 347 short block filled with strong Rods.
I have no experience when it comes to setting up a car to go this fast. But I do know I want to be a high 5 sec 1/8 mile car & mid 9 sec 1/4 car
So please suggest something that will be street friendly & take 93 pump gas.
I want to run the TFS Heads on the short block along with a FAST Intake & NW 90MM TB
Thanks
Seb
So I want to start putting a short block together now. Is it better to buy a short block already assembled or buy a Empty block & then buy Rods & Piston's.
My next question is I want to put down 6.80s on motor & then have a 2 stage Nitrous System, I haven't decided on if I want a Direct Port Nitrous System or one that goes through the TB. So is a 408 short block better I know more Cubes is better or just go for a 347 short block filled with strong Rods.
I have no experience when it comes to setting up a car to go this fast. But I do know I want to be a high 5 sec 1/8 mile car & mid 9 sec 1/4 car
So please suggest something that will be street friendly & take 93 pump gas.
I want to run the TFS Heads on the short block along with a FAST Intake & NW 90MM TB
Thanks
Seb
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SEB, your best bet would be to call Erik at HKE and talk to him about just building you a stock cubic inch motor with good pistons/rods. or a stroker with the eagle crank and rods and some wiseco nitrous pistons. Call a professional, tell them what you want, and pay them when they're done building it. Just give Daniel at SQR a call and tell him you want the "Phil" setup.
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Originally Posted by skipperbisket
SEB, your best bet would be to call Erik at HKE and talk to him about just building you a stock cubic inch motor with good pistons/rods. or a stroker with the eagle crank and rods and some wiseco nitrous pistons. Call a professional, tell them what you want, and pay them when they're done building it. Just give Daniel at SQR a call and tell him you want the "Phil" setup.
I will call them & ask them what that setup will cost. I think that is going to be my best bet,
Is is possbile to run a 347 short block & still get 6s on motor & hit with a 2 stage nitrous system (150 each stage)
I figure I will have to loose the 4L60 & get a 350 trans with a Neal Chance Converter. I just want to do this right the first time.
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Originally Posted by SEBLS1
I will call them & ask them what that setup will cost. I think that is going to be my best bet,
Is is possbile to run a 347 short block & still get 6s on motor & hit with a 2 stage nitrous system (150 each stage)
I figure I will have to loose the 4L60 & get a 350 trans with a Neal Chance Converter. I just want to do this right the first time.
Is is possbile to run a 347 short block & still get 6s on motor & hit with a 2 stage nitrous system (150 each stage)
I figure I will have to loose the 4L60 & get a 350 trans with a Neal Chance Converter. I just want to do this right the first time.
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Originally Posted by zspot98
6's should be possible assuming the car's been lightened up and it hooks well. I also wouldn't worry too much about the 2 stage 300 shot since you'll never be hitting the car with more than 150 at any one time. Just out of curiosity, what's the point of running a 150 150 shot? Why not just run one 150 all the way thru or do it progressive?
The car is a full wieght car now. But I will have Bogarts on when I run at the track. My goal is to run 5.60s
So I guess my question is. What is a 5 sec combo that I can still run 93 pump gas?
I am gonig to run TFS Heads & FAST Intake. Will I need to go Solid Roller or can I stay Hydralic & can I run 5s with a stock block & alot of spray.
I don't know much about nitrous,
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A 347 will be a bit cheaper since you can stick with the stock crank, all you need is a hone, pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts, and bearings.
A forged 347 on a 300 shot through a 350 trans can run low mid high 9's in the 1/4 if driven well.
BTW 102K miles on a well maintained LS1 isnt anything, its in it middle age.
A forged 347 on a 300 shot through a 350 trans can run low mid high 9's in the 1/4 if driven well.
BTW 102K miles on a well maintained LS1 isnt anything, its in it middle age.
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Originally Posted by brad8266
A 347 will be a bit cheaper since you can stick with the stock crank, all you need is a hone, pistons, rings, rods, rod bolts, and bearings.
A forged 347 on a 300 shot through a 350 trans can run low mid high 9's in the 1/4 if driven well.
BTW 102K miles on a well maintained LS1 isnt anything, its in it middle age.
A forged 347 on a 300 shot through a 350 trans can run low mid high 9's in the 1/4 if driven well.
BTW 102K miles on a well maintained LS1 isnt anything, its in it middle age.
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It can be done but keeping the heads down on a 300 shot might take some extra $$$ not to mention a stronger trans than a local 350, something like SFI ready Coan or Rossler th400 and a real good converter (neal chance are amazing but get ready to pay $1k+ for a welded converter or almost 2k for a bolt together) IS the chassis and rearend setup to go 9s it's great to dream but it's an expensive trip to make it down the 1/4....
But Erik, Futural, or W2W can all build you a great setup.
Get ready for make some sacrifices..... pumpgas/9sec times slip/nitrous/reliability/streetalbe are increadibly expensive to put into the same sentence.
But Erik, Futural, or W2W can all build you a great setup.
Get ready for make some sacrifices..... pumpgas/9sec times slip/nitrous/reliability/streetalbe are increadibly expensive to put into the same sentence.
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I must say Seb, your goal of 5.60s is VERY unrealistic to say the least. And good luck anyways...
The questions you are asking aren't those of someone that is going to go run 5.60s. You don't just wake up one day and decide thats what you want to do. The difference between 5.60s and where you are at now is NIGHT AND DAY. You may be looking at it as a 1.x second or whatever difference only and it is soooo much more than that.
Matt
The questions you are asking aren't those of someone that is going to go run 5.60s. You don't just wake up one day and decide thats what you want to do. The difference between 5.60s and where you are at now is NIGHT AND DAY. You may be looking at it as a 1.x second or whatever difference only and it is soooo much more than that.
Matt
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Originally Posted by SEBLS1
I don't know much about nitrous,
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Originally Posted by brad8266
You also dont know much either about nitrous obviously.
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Originally Posted by zspot98
Then please teach me the benifits of running a 150 on top of another 150, assuming they're both wet or dry? Thanks, Mike
The wet/dry part has noting to do with anything.
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Originally Posted by brad8266
150 on top of a 150 is a 300 shot when the second stage turns on. Im not gonna hijack this anymore, if you wanna know the actual advantages go read in the nitrous section. There are quite a few benifits of running 2 stages, go ask robert56.
The wet/dry part has noting to do with anything.
The wet/dry part has noting to do with anything.
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Originally Posted by zspot98
I'm not questioning the benifits of running a dual stage. I'm questioning running a 150 then another 150. I always assumed that the 1st stage turned off when the 2nd came on? Is this where I'm going wrong?
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Originally Posted by brad8266
On a 150/150 it is better to keep the first and second stage on so that you arent spraying a 300 through one nozzle. having both nozzles spraying will help with the dispersion (sp?) of the fuel and nitrous.
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Originally Posted by skipperbisket
I must say Seb, your goal of 5.60s is VERY unrealistic to say the least. And good luck anyways...
The questions you are asking aren't those of someone that is going to go run 5.60s. You don't just wake up one day and decide thats what you want to do. The difference between 5.60s and where you are at now is NIGHT AND DAY. You may be looking at it as a 1.x second or whatever difference only and it is soooo much more than that.
Matt
The questions you are asking aren't those of someone that is going to go run 5.60s. You don't just wake up one day and decide thats what you want to do. The difference between 5.60s and where you are at now is NIGHT AND DAY. You may be looking at it as a 1.x second or whatever difference only and it is soooo much more than that.
Matt
What is unrealistic about it Professor?
That stock block 372 CI motor has a 3.9 bore. It will run deep 5's at ease. I dont think he will get there with out some trick parts if he stays hydraulic but 5.60's in a 347 is very possible. No one has ever done a full all out 3.9 stock stroke setup to do it. If i had unlimited funds, id build a second motor just to prove you wrong. When you have the right people from the start it can happen.