MAX12421

My friend and I have been talking about cams the last week and I've decided to do just a cam and then the heads this next winter but.... I have a 2000 z28 with QTP headers and 3.73 gears... my friend has a 2002 firehawk with heads and cam, but he wishes that he would have went bigger. So he suggested a 242/246 590/595 on a 112 with +4.. I just wanted to know what someone elses opinion was, and it is not my daily driver also...
One question I have will I have valve clearance?
thanks

JPH

iTrader: (2)

the cam you guys are talking about is too big, for what you want to do. look into the 230's for duration figures @.050.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

What are you trying to do with your cam? Just arbitrarily picking durations isn't exactly the best method to pick a cam. Consider that similar durations are being used in the cam only record holder, a purpose built 3000 lb race car using 4.56 gears. I would be brutally honest with yourself about what you intend to do and see what others are using to accomplish the same goals.

MAX12421

Well the car will be used to cruise and take to the track, I estimate maybe about 3000 miles a year on it and that is at the very most... okay guys my first choice was the Texas speed cam that is 233/239 595/603 at a 112, but the XE-R lobes are kind of turning me off to get it

PREDATOR-Z

Why would you say that?

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

a set of patriot golds or any decent spring should last quite a while even on xer lobes.something like a t2 which is a 232/234 on xer lobes would be a decent cam i would run,or if you want to trade some tq for hp get something like an ms3.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

do you have a hp goal or maybe a track goal...

but any of the mid 23x cams are great cams...and they all respond well to good heads.

if you really want good power...don't skimp on the heads. there can be a huge difference between budget and well built heads. that can easily make up for going with a slightly smaller cam

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

If u dont have valve cuts in your pistons be carfull how big you go. If you mill for more compression it gets tight fast. All ways bad when mr piston meets mr valve

MAX12421

I've read that the springs need to be replaced more often then others

MAX12421

My goals at the track (Utah which is about 4300 feet) high 11's low 12's (after heads) so I wanted to stay in the 23x region so as far as I know the better it breaths the more I'll put down.. and power I'm not really going to get hung up on..

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

The altitude is what is going to hurt you. A 12.00 @ 113 at 4300 feet is basically an 11.00 @ 124 at sea level. Here's a mod list from the last 10 sec club entry:

1998 camaro Z28 A3 347/ Trex / FTRA/LS6/SLP lid/SLP MAF/bellows/ported -tb/ asp pulley/slp- headers/x-pipe-1 chambers/th350,4000 stall/BMR subframes/lca's/torque arm/ tuned/tnt 150 shot/3:23/ mt Drags/ 1.59 60' 10.94 best mph 125.89

Since it took a 150 shot to get there, I'm guessing that pass is at full weight.

I'm guessing that I'll have to backpedal a little on my previous statement. It probably will take a serious effort to reach your goal at your altitude.

MAX12421

Thats what I figured and I want to do it without any power adders too.. Hey thanks for the info guys

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

I'd say start with your suspension. Its going to take enough power that you simply have to hook to even come reasonably close. Once you get the chassis sorted out, focus on getting your car to run good numbers with stock internals. Use your mph as a good indicator of the power you are producing to see where you'll have to be (how much more HP) to hit your target mph.

IMO, you are better off with excellent heads and a little less cam. Even if you are olny putting 3000 street miles a year on it, they'll be easier without a monster.

Also, if you haven't already, consider shedding some weight.

Good Luck!