Snyper

iTrader: (27)

Ok well to make a long story short im putting an LS1 into my 93 RX7 and I want it to go fast. Now, Im buying a block from a good friend of mine whos 5 and 7 ring lands went on his 18k mile 2001 WS6 shortblock. the #5(possibly #7 I cant remember which) has a fairly noticable grove from where the ring land went..you can feel it with your finger tip but its not HORRIBLE...hopefully wont need more than .010 Now I have no clue when it comes to LS1s since ive only owned LT1/4s. Ive found 2 pistons(hoping the groove isnt too big to where these wouldnt work)

JE LS1 Forged Flat Top Piston Set -2cc Valve Reliefs 3.905" bore x 3.622" stroke, for 6.098" Rods (stock length) 1.340" Comp Height, .945 x 2.500 Wrist Pins Included (for stock rods)

or

Mahle Motorsport Forged 347 cid LS1 Flat-Top Piston Set: 3.908" Bore, 3.622" Stroke, 6.098" Rod Length, .945" Wrist Pins, 1.314" CH, -4cc Dish; Wrist Pins and Piston Rings Included


I see the Mahles are a litttttle bit bigger not really sure if it would make a difference. If the scratch in the wall is too big...is there a piston I can go with thats maybe .020 over and have the cyls bored out that much?(again .030 was easy on my LT1)

Next question..I plan on putting stock 241 or 243 heads on it and a 224/224 cam and then spraying with a 150-175 shot...my question is will these pistons cut it? And what about the rods? Can I get away with the stock rods/arp pro bolts along with the stock crank or would I be safter going with something like a scat I-beam??(again I dont need to go crazy..550-600rw in a 2600lbs car is going to be enough)...any suggestions on this stuff would be nice. Thanks-Mark

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Well, the first thing I can tell you is be careful about over-boring an ls1. I'm not sure on the spec, but I beleive all you can do is a cleanup because of the thickness of the liners. That's the big difference between an ls1 and lt1/4 is that the lt1/4 were iron blocks and the ls series of motors are aluminum with a cast iron sleeve that can't be bored out much. Before going much further, I'd have the block looked at and see how deep that scratch is and find out if a clean up will be enough to eliminate it. If not, you are better buying a different short block that doesn't have any issues because it may cost you more to fix this one than a good block would cost.

Best of luck.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

thanks..its definatly a noticable "gouge"..it doest take your nail to feel it...im looking on texas speed at one of the new blocks for 1000$ and that seems like it might be a way to go as well..wont need any machine work..just get the rotating assembly balanced and put in..

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

if you can feel it, .10 is not going to happen, I would guess if you can really fell it, it might take over .70 to clean it, considering that is material removed in circumference, I would start thinking about a new block.

Snyper

iTrader: (27)

well i didnt pay for it yet.. I can get it checked out first.