chris-m

i have a slight oil weep at the rear of the sump (around the spot where sealant is advised to be used). this is with a brand new sump gasket and rtv sealant used (engine was on stand and faces clean/dry). sump itself is an ARE alloy dry sump -brand new. everything tightened down nice and easy and i used recommended torque settings. all the faces were clean and looked true.
i'm going to remove the sump and have a look , anyone got any suggestions or had similar weep in that region? maybe i didnt use enough rtv, but it was left to dry fully.
wondering if there is a specific sequence of the bolts also, i worked from middle out for tightening up.
any help appreciated
thanks

chris-m

gonna pull the sump tonight so any advice appreciated?

chris-m

can anyone shed any light on if there is a torque pattern for retightening those sump pan bolts?

DaddySS

The only thing of note is that when installing the rear cover, you snug the bolts, don't use any lubricant on the seal ID, install the oil pan to cover bolts and the tighten the cover bolts so that the cover and block are flush to the pan. As far as sequence for the pan bolts, there is no refernec but center out like did is a good approach.

chris-m

cheers for that. had a look last night and only thing i did find is one of the m8s toward the rear wasnt tight, turned out it stripped a thread despite being torqued correctly first time out. i helicoiled it and re-fitted the sump gasket so fingers crossed. leak was coming from rear corner rather than anywhere else, faces looked ok etc

chris-m

was also going to ask, can i change the rear crank seal without removing the rear oil cover? i havent disturbed that cover as yet, i did the front cover gasket and crank seal when i did the cam but havent as yet moved the rear one. i have a new seal and a new flywheel to fit, it looks like the rear seal will prize out ?
thanks