





Big vs. Small
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I know they SHOULD be a lot more fun to drive, regardless of track times. But how fun is a fun car when your 402 gets smoked by a 346, right?
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Seeing that you only have a few posts, I will give you some advise...
If you want a mature and educated answer to a question on this board, it helps to phrase your questions and responses in the same way. While there are many members under 20 on this board, there are also a lot of 40+ individuals who are up to speed on the latest engine and drivetrain trends and could really help you. So chill the sarcasm and you'll get far on this board.
In response to the big vs. small question...it depends on whether you're talking N/A or forced induction.
N/A, displacement = torque. More cubes = more torque. More torque = more power. Basically there are two kinds of people...those with big engines and those who want them.
Forced induction is a different animal all-together. Often, a small bore will be less prone to detonation and will allow an FI motor to run more boost. Boost is the almighty equalizer. It's the reason why 3.0 liter Toyota motors can make over 1000 rwhp.

2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
Comparing small engines to big engines to FI engines to big FI engines is more or less meaningless without considering what all that costs....and what it costs to prep the driveline and car to take the power once you start getting serious.
Basic good H/C package: $3,500, more or less.
All-out large FI engine: ten times that, more or less.
Driveline and chassis mods to suit.
Speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go?
Now I'm debating most likely between an aluminum 347 build or an iron 370 build, either of which will be built to handle some serious amounts of spray (300+ at the minimum
). I can get a pretty stout 347 from FLP for right around $3200 or so (stock crank). That price includes Lunati rods, JE pistons, and ARP main studs. I don't want to spend much more than that at all, so I will probably be going with that unless I can get a forged 370 for a couple hundred bucks more.I'd rather get a very high quality 347 than a medium quality 370-402. Better parts will be more reliable and can handle more power in the end.
Advantage of a 347 is that I also don't need to get the car re-tuned for N/A
NOW if i had oh another 7k i would have gone with the FFHP single turbo front mount T88 race kit,of course have the rear end built, low compression pistons of course, a twin disk clutch and run 8-10 psi on the street and make an easy 700whp.
the above option maybe in with in grasp next year though, we will see.
stock LS1 bore, 4.8 crank with 6.125 rods, forged diamond pistons (maybe, might get another manufacturer), some ported LQ9 heads with some nice hefty upgrades, still deciding on turbo size, but maybe somewhere around a T76, running 15+psi As to the real topic at hand, what is this 500CI stroker setup I hear about? It sounds wicked as hell. I forgot who makes it, but its very new I think.




