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pistons/rods install write-up

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Old 08-10-2007, 10:41 AM
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Default pistons/rods install write-up

I've done everything so far, cam, heads, procharger and everything else. Now I'm looking to take it to the next level. I would like to install stronger pistons and rods. Does anyone have a good write-up for this? I think I can handle it but I like having a guide line. Everything else I've done with write-ups I've found here with no problems but I can't find anything on the pistons and rods. I'm just looking to put in some stronger parts so I can up the boost a little. I'm not looking to have any machine work done so I can keep costs down. I want to stay 346 and just put some stronger parts in. Anyone know of anything that could be helpful?
Old 08-10-2007, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rufretic
I've done everything so far, cam, heads, procharger and everything else. Now I'm looking to take it to the next level. I would like to install stronger pistons and rods. Does anyone have a good write-up for this? I think I can handle it but I like having a guide line. Everything else I've done with write-ups I've found here with no problems but I can't find anything on the pistons and rods. I'm just looking to put in some stronger parts so I can up the boost a little. I'm not looking to have any machine work done so I can keep costs down. I want to stay 346 and just put some stronger parts in. Anyone know of anything that could be helpful?
You are gonna need machine work done, or else you could end up wasting your money or possibly spending more in the long run when the engine pukes its guts out. You are gonna want to hone the cylinders, balance the crank, pin fit the rods and pistons, and deck the block and heads to make sure they are flat for a good seal. You may need more machine work depending on if there are any other inconsistencies in any clearances. Anything else you need to know you can find in books like Rick Voeglins book on building engines or Will Handzels LS1/LS6 book.
Old 08-10-2007, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by KCS
You are gonna need machine work done, or else you could end up wasting your money or possibly spending more in the long run when the engine pukes its guts out. You are gonna want to hone the cylinders, balance the crank, pin fit the rods and pistons, and deck the block and heads to make sure they are flat for a good seal. You may need more machine work depending on if there are any other inconsistencies in any clearances. Anything else you need to know you can find in books like Rick Voeglins book on building engines or Will Handzels LS1/LS6 book.

So you can't just swap stronger pistons and rods to make it a stronger set-up? No wonder there are no write-ups, no one does it on thier own. That sucks, I hate letting other people work on my car.
Old 08-10-2007, 01:33 PM
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People do it on their own, but they get the bock check out and honed and decked beforehand.

Then when you get it back you can start on your assembly.
Old 08-10-2007, 01:54 PM
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yep, better get it done right the first time. Nothing worse than doing **** twice.
Old 08-10-2007, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TheLS1Kid
People do it on their own, but they get the bock check out and honed and decked beforehand.

Then when you get it back you can start on your assembly.
That might be the way I go, I love working on my car so I want to do as much as possible. When you get the block machined does it change the cubes like when people say they have a 347? How do you determine what size pistons you need after they machine the block? I have a ton more questions but that is why I was hoping to find some type of write-up so I wouldn't have to bother asking. I'm having a hard time finding what I need with the search but I know this info has to be on here somewhere.
Old 08-10-2007, 02:10 PM
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When you get the block machined it doesn't have to change the cubes.

If I were you, I'd get the blocked bored to a 3.905 bore. That way you will have a forged 347. I actually think with our LS1 blocks, you can get it honed to a 347 since it is such a small difference.

You determine the piston size by the size of the bore. The machine shop will tell you what the bore size is.




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