Mod Newb asking for next mods recomendation
#1
Mod Newb asking for next mods recomendation
I've pretty much racked my brain to figure out what mod to do next. I want to do something easy while i save up for headers. Mostly i want to stick to bolt on's no heads or cams.
Right now i figure im pushing 350rwhp in a 2000 M6 Camaro Z28 LS1 with Lid, Cold air intake, Bellows, MAF, and Loudmouth exhaust 3.5 Tips.
Next mods are Handheld Tune, Headers, throttle body, then Procharger any advice on the order or other mods i should do?
Right now i figure im pushing 350rwhp in a 2000 M6 Camaro Z28 LS1 with Lid, Cold air intake, Bellows, MAF, and Loudmouth exhaust 3.5 Tips.
Next mods are Handheld Tune, Headers, throttle body, then Procharger any advice on the order or other mods i should do?
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Originally Posted by Z28CJ
I've pretty much racked my brain to figure out what mod to do next. I want to do something easy while i save up for headers. Mostly i want to stick to bolt on's no heads or cams.
Right now i figure im pushing 350rwhp in a 2000 M6 Camaro Z28 LS1 with Lid, Cold air intake, Bellows, MAF, and Loudmouth exhaust 3.5 Tips.
Next mods are Handheld Tune, Headers, throttle body, then Procharger any advice on the order or other mods i should do?
Right now i figure im pushing 350rwhp in a 2000 M6 Camaro Z28 LS1 with Lid, Cold air intake, Bellows, MAF, and Loudmouth exhaust 3.5 Tips.
Next mods are Handheld Tune, Headers, throttle body, then Procharger any advice on the order or other mods i should do?
First of all welcome to the site. Be careful not to catalog calculate you rwhp. What I mean is don't figure "with a lid I can get 15 hp, with a CAI I can get 15 hp so that is 30 and SLP said I would get 20 hp from a LM cat back so that is 50 hp with 3 mods". Trust me it doesn't work like that. If it did we would all be driving 500+ hp cars. 350rwhp from the mods you listed does not happen.
Now with that out of the way you need to let your enging breath. I'd say LS6 intake, LT's, Then dyno tune. With your M6 I would go with 4:10 gears.
Remember your goals could change so don't rule out C/H combo. Just my .02
Jason
#6
Originally Posted by firedog02z28
Now with that out of the way you need to let your enging breath. I'd say LS6 intake, LT's, Then dyno tune. With your M6 I would go with 4:10 gears.
Remember your goals could change so don't rule out C/H combo. Just my .02
Jason
Remember your goals could change so don't rule out C/H combo. Just my .02
Jason
now the tech stuff
Not to sound like a total newb but what are LT's? Also would i run a huge chance of blowing the rear if i run a 4:10 gear?
#7
Originally Posted by Tainted
1. how much $$ do you want to spend?
2. do you gotta pass emissions
3. what are your REALISTIC goals for the car
4. What is the cars main purpose (drag, autoX)
2. do you gotta pass emissions
3. what are your REALISTIC goals for the car
4. What is the cars main purpose (drag, autoX)
2. It is also a daily so i do have to pass emissions
3. Realisitically i want to beat my buddies ls2 GTO with LM exhaust
4. Main purpose is Drag
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I would start working on your suspension first and motor last.
-Rear lower control arms
-Sub-frame connectors
-larger rear sway bar
-poly bushings were needed in the rear suspension
-Adjustable Pan hard bar for the twisties
-rear springs w/air bag
-Rear lower control arms
-Sub-frame connectors
-larger rear sway bar
-poly bushings were needed in the rear suspension
-Adjustable Pan hard bar for the twisties
-rear springs w/air bag
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Originally Posted by Z28CJ
First thanks for the welcome to the fourms!
now the tech stuff
Not to sound like a total newb but what are LT's? Also would i run a huge chance of blowing the rear if i run a 4:10 gear?
now the tech stuff
Not to sound like a total newb but what are LT's? Also would i run a huge chance of blowing the rear if i run a 4:10 gear?
As you can tell with the responses to your post, you can start with just about anything. You need an action plan with a goal in mind. If you start with suspension as mentioned, you will improve your ride quality and traction.
You didn't mention anything about handling in your origional post so that may not be important now. I started with this order: 1) lid 2) Catback 3) headers
4)cam, under drive pulley. I had a goal of 400rwhp
Hope this helps
Jason
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well pacesetter long tubes are about as much as an ls6 intake money wise....the headers will net you more power...then save your money again and get the ls6 ontake or an equivelent...the intake is way simpler to do though and will net you an easy 10-15rwhp....and a ported throttle body....a tune is a good mod as well probably the best....with an m6 handhelds are useless....
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Originally Posted by firedog02z28
If you start with suspension as mentioned, you will improve your ride quality and traction.
-rear lower control arms-$98-Jegs
-subframe connectors- $140-Ebaymotors.com
-rear sway bar-$123-Jegs
-poly sway bar end link bushings-$30-Jegs
-Panhard bar-$120-Jegs
-rear springs from a 1979 Chevy Monza V8 have a softer spring rate and fit
into the stock location-$40-local auto parts store
-rear air bag kit-$78-Jegs
-poly TQ arm bushing-$12-Jegs
-HAL/QA1 front 12 way adj. shocks-$520-BMR Fabrication good for 3/10 of a
second in the 1/4 mile
-HAL/QA1 rear 12 way adj. shocks-$360-BMR Fabrication
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Originally Posted by 1997bird
You can usually have a faster car from working on your suspension than you can with bolt ons. If you can get the car to transfer the HP to the wheels, your stock car will be faster than most all bolt on cars. If you can't hook the HP properly then it doesn't do you any good to have more HP, that just creates a bigger problem. If he starts buying the suspension parts one at a time his money will stretch a little bit farther for him, as most of the parts are not real high dollar at first.
-rear lower control arms-$98-Jegs
-subframe connectors- $140-Ebaymotors.com
-rear sway bar-$123-Jegs
-poly sway bar end link bushings-$30-Jegs
-Panhard bar-$120-Jegs
-rear springs from a 1979 Chevy Monza V8 have a softer spring rate and fit
into the stock location-$40-local auto parts store
-rear air bag kit-$78-Jegs
-poly TQ arm bushing-$12-Jegs
-HAL/QA1 front 12 way adj. shocks-$520-BMR Fabrication good for 3/10 of a
second in the 1/4 mile
-HAL/QA1 rear 12 way adj. shocks-$360-BMR Fabrication
-rear lower control arms-$98-Jegs
-subframe connectors- $140-Ebaymotors.com
-rear sway bar-$123-Jegs
-poly sway bar end link bushings-$30-Jegs
-Panhard bar-$120-Jegs
-rear springs from a 1979 Chevy Monza V8 have a softer spring rate and fit
into the stock location-$40-local auto parts store
-rear air bag kit-$78-Jegs
-poly TQ arm bushing-$12-Jegs
-HAL/QA1 front 12 way adj. shocks-$520-BMR Fabrication good for 3/10 of a
second in the 1/4 mile
-HAL/QA1 rear 12 way adj. shocks-$360-BMR Fabrication
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From what you have (with just a moderate E/T for drag racing from the sounds of what you want) I'd go:
- Lower Control Arms
- Relocation Brackets
- LS6 Intake
- Long Tube Headers
- tune (handhelds are worthless once you start modding)
- some higher traction street tires
You should be smoking your friend's GTO all day w/ that and it isn't that much work or money (LTs and intake are a bit, tires could be too)
If you get the mod bug after that start saving for a rear end and forget the final gears 'till after that. Then just go wherever on mods... I'd finish the suspension before heads and cam though...
- Lower Control Arms
- Relocation Brackets
- LS6 Intake
- Long Tube Headers
- tune (handhelds are worthless once you start modding)
- some higher traction street tires
You should be smoking your friend's GTO all day w/ that and it isn't that much work or money (LTs and intake are a bit, tires could be too)
If you get the mod bug after that start saving for a rear end and forget the final gears 'till after that. Then just go wherever on mods... I'd finish the suspension before heads and cam though...