F-Body Head Bolt swap
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F-Body Head Bolt swap
I tried searching for in car head bolt swaps and cold not find any threads. Is it possible to swap from the stock heads bolts to a set of ARP head bolts with the engine in the car? Also, does anyone have a link to the torque specs for the ARP's?
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Originally Posted by WS6Drop
I didn't see anything in that link about swapping the stock head bolts to ARP's while engine is in the car with the heads on it. Anyone else?
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take the intake, valve covers, and headers off and you can swap them out pretty easy.
There will be no writeup for what you are asking because people don't typically dive into the engine just to swap head bolts. They will do that with a head or cam swap.
There will be no writeup for what you are asking because people don't typically dive into the engine just to swap head bolts. They will do that with a head or cam swap.
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Originally Posted by 3.4camaro
take the intake, valve covers, and headers off and you can swap them out pretty easy.
There will be no writeup for what you are asking because people don't typically dive into the engine just to swap head bolts. They will do that with a head or cam swap.
There will be no writeup for what you are asking because people don't typically dive into the engine just to swap head bolts. They will do that with a head or cam swap.
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By removing the headbolts you wil compromise the head gaskets. I assume you are installing the ARP bolts to avoid a possible future blown headgasket, by doing it without replacing the head gasket you will most likely be casuing a blown head gasket.
Either pull the heads or wait for the gasket to blow and then do it.
Re'
Either pull the heads or wait for the gasket to blow and then do it.
Re'
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Originally Posted by RE AND CHERYL
By removing the headbolts you wil compromise the head gaskets. I assume you are installing the ARP bolts to avoid a possible future blown headgasket, by doing it without replacing the head gasket you will most likely be casuing a blown head gasket.
Either pull the heads or wait for the gasket to blow and then do it.
Re'
Either pull the heads or wait for the gasket to blow and then do it.
Re'
And you CANNOT put ARP studs on the motor without pulling the head. 2 studs on the rear of the passenger head must go in with the head.
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You can install a set of ARP bolts on the head while the heads are still on and the gasket stays clamped down tight. You need to pull the valve covers, rockers, and unbolt the header from the head only. Then you take one head bolt out and replace it with an arp bolt and TQ to spec, then pull another bolt and replace it. The idea is to do it one at a time so that the gasket stays clamped down. Will this compromise the gasket, possibly, but it likely wont since it is clamped down the entire time.
Be sure you blow each bolt hole out with some compressed air before you put the new bolt in.
Be sure you blow each bolt hole out with some compressed air before you put the new bolt in.
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Originally Posted by 3.4camaro
And you CANNOT put ARP studs on the motor without pulling the head. 2 studs on the rear of the passenger head must go in with the head.
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Originally Posted by brad8266
You can install a set of ARP bolts on the head while the heads are still on and the gasket stays clamped down tight. You need to pull the valve covers, rockers, and unbolt the header from the head only. Then you take one head bolt out and replace it with an arp bolt and TQ to spec, then pull another bolt and replace it. The idea is to do it one at a time so that the gasket stays clamped down. Will this compromise the gasket, possibly, but it likely wont since it is clamped down the entire time.
Be sure you blow each bolt hole out with some compressed air before you put the new bolt in.
Be sure you blow each bolt hole out with some compressed air before you put the new bolt in.
Thanks! I knew you can swap the bolts one at a time. As I have already checked with ARP & AFR and they both gave me the thumbs up, so long as you use the method you described. I just wasn't sure if you could reach them all and if you had to take the exhaust off or not. I'm already going to have a bunch of work in front of me and did not wat to have to remove the exhaust. I'll just have to wait and see how the swap is going and do them if time permits.
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The lower head bolts will be about impossible to get to pull out without unbolting the header from the head. You dont have to completely remove the header, just unbolt it from the head so it has enough play for you to work around to get the head bolts out.You can leave all the exhaust in place, just undo the header to head bolts and youll see what im talking about. Once you unbolt it from the head it will have a bit of play in it to move around.
Be sure to retorque all head bolts after they are all in place.
Be sure to retorque all head bolts after they are all in place.