myfast70

iTrader: (38)

I tried searching for in car head bolt swaps and cold not find any threads. Is it possible to swap from the stock heads bolts to a set of ARP head bolts with the engine in the car? Also, does anyone have a link to the torque specs for the ARP's?

WS6Drop

iTrader: (10)

http://www.ls1howto.com/

Shows everything you need to know.

myfast70

iTrader: (38)

I didn't see anything in that link about swapping the stock head bolts to ARP's while engine is in the car with the heads on it. Anyone else?

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

take the intake, valve covers, and headers off and you can swap them out pretty easy.

There will be no writeup for what you are asking because people don't typically dive into the engine just to swap head bolts. They will do that with a head or cam swap.

myfast70

iTrader: (38)

I was going to do it with my cam swap next weekend and just wanted to know how in depth it was. I did not want to have to remove the exhaust if possible. Also, I wasn't sure if you could actually get all of the bolts out from under the cowl with everything still in car.

Viper

iTrader: (6)

You will have to remove the exhaust, those are some of the toughest to reach even with the exhaust removed. You can get to all the bolts from under the cowl.

g-ryde1

iTrader: (3)

to answer your question yes it is possible to swap in arp studs with the engine in the bay but you still wanna take the heads off

RE AND CHERYL

iTrader: (31)

By removing the headbolts you wil compromise the head gaskets. I assume you are installing the ARP bolts to avoid a possible future blown headgasket, by doing it without replacing the head gasket you will most likely be casuing a blown head gasket.

Either pull the heads or wait for the gasket to blow and then do it.

Re'

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

He is right.

And you CANNOT put ARP studs on the motor without pulling the head. 2 studs on the rear of the passenger head must go in with the head.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

You can install a set of ARP bolts on the head while the heads are still on and the gasket stays clamped down tight. You need to pull the valve covers, rockers, and unbolt the header from the head only. Then you take one head bolt out and replace it with an arp bolt and TQ to spec, then pull another bolt and replace it. The idea is to do it one at a time so that the gasket stays clamped down. Will this compromise the gasket, possibly, but it likely wont since it is clamped down the entire time.

Be sure you blow each bolt hole out with some compressed air before you put the new bolt in.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Studs can to be put in without pulling the head and the head can go on with the rear studs already in place.

myfast70

iTrader: (38)

Thanks! I knew you can swap the bolts one at a time. As I have already checked with ARP & AFR and they both gave me the thumbs up, so long as you use the method you described. I just wasn't sure if you could reach them all and if you had to take the exhaust off or not. I'm already going to have a bunch of work in front of me and did not wat to have to remove the exhaust. I'll just have to wait and see how the swap is going and do them if time permits.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

The lower head bolts will be about impossible to get to pull out without unbolting the header from the head. You dont have to completely remove the header, just unbolt it from the head so it has enough play for you to work around to get the head bolts out.You can leave all the exhaust in place, just undo the header to head bolts and youll see what im talking about. Once you unbolt it from the head it will have a bit of play in it to move around.

Be sure to retorque all head bolts after they are all in place.