No oil pressure after cam, timing chain and oil pump swap NEED HELP
03-19-2008, 05:46 PM
#1
No oil pressure after cam, timing chain and oil pump swap NEED HELP I just got done changing the cam, timing chain, and oil pump in my car. I also changed the valve springs. Everthing went good. I got everything put back together.
I turned the car over for 4-8 seconds to prime the oil pump. I done this with the coil packs unhooked. Then I hooked the them up and started the car. The oil pressure came up barley off the red mark. The engine sounded like hell. The engine got quieter after almost a minute, but the oil pressure was still very low. I raised the rpms up to 1500 and the oil pressure came up to about 40psi. When the rpms come down the oil pressure drops. I let the car get to warm and run for 15-20 minutes raising the rpms and still the oil pressure is low. It hasn't broke the 40psi mark yet. I didn't turn the engine more than 2200 rpm's.
I made sure the o-ring for the pickup was in good shape and it went together good. I don't know what could cause it. Any help will be appreciated.
I put a ported ls-6 pump on it that I bought from a member on here. Any idea on what to do to fix it.
Thanks,
SBP
I turned the car over for 4-8 seconds to prime the oil pump. I done this with the coil packs unhooked. Then I hooked the them up and started the car. The oil pressure came up barley off the red mark. The engine sounded like hell. The engine got quieter after almost a minute, but the oil pressure was still very low. I raised the rpms up to 1500 and the oil pressure came up to about 40psi. When the rpms come down the oil pressure drops. I let the car get to warm and run for 15-20 minutes raising the rpms and still the oil pressure is low. It hasn't broke the 40psi mark yet. I didn't turn the engine more than 2200 rpm's.
I made sure the o-ring for the pickup was in good shape and it went together good. I don't know what could cause it. Any help will be appreciated.
I put a ported ls-6 pump on it that I bought from a member on here. Any idea on what to do to fix it.
Thanks,
SBP
03-19-2008, 05:52 PM
#2
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Not sure but I just did the same thing and started Mine up monday. My oil pressure was up near 65-70 psi with the new oil pump installed.
Sounds like you have some issues or a high milage motor.
Sounds like you have some issues or a high milage motor.
03-19-2008, 06:02 PM
#4
Suspect #1 - o-ring is pinched
Suspect #2 - something is wrong with the oil pump
What timing chain, was it a double? If so, did you correctly install the shim where the oil comes out of the pump? Someone recently installed this wrong and had a similar problem.
Did you check the seal on the cam retainer plate, was it in good shape?
Suspect #2 - something is wrong with the oil pump
What timing chain, was it a double? If so, did you correctly install the shim where the oil comes out of the pump? Someone recently installed this wrong and had a similar problem.
Did you check the seal on the cam retainer plate, was it in good shape?
03-19-2008, 06:17 PM
#5
The car isn't a high mile car. 65,???.
The oil pressure isn't constant. It is up and down. The rpms are at 1000 and the oil pressure is moving constantly. UP and DOWN. But never gets to where it should be. Never over 40psi. And it only goes to that if the rpms are raised to 1500.
I did put a double roller timing set on also. I also put the shims in correctly. I double checked everything. The o-ring appeared to go in perfect.
The seal for the retainer plate was in good shape also. No problems there. It didn't even come out of the plate.
Thanks,
SBP
The oil pressure isn't constant. It is up and down. The rpms are at 1000 and the oil pressure is moving constantly. UP and DOWN. But never gets to where it should be. Never over 40psi. And it only goes to that if the rpms are raised to 1500.
I did put a double roller timing set on also. I also put the shims in correctly. I double checked everything. The o-ring appeared to go in perfect.
The seal for the retainer plate was in good shape also. No problems there. It didn't even come out of the plate.
Thanks,
SBP
03-19-2008, 06:27 PM
#6
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I'm in the same boat! I took it back apart and I don't think I had the pickup tube seated properly in to the oil pump. It looks better now, But I don't know if I'll be able finish it tonight and find out if that was it?
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03-19-2008, 08:08 PM
#8
Hate to think this, but I would suspect the pump. The relief valve sounds like it might have an issue. Pump is a pretty simple thing, if the o-ring is OK and the spacers are correct, the relief may be the culprit. Having bought it used, do you know much about it?
03-19-2008, 08:14 PM
#9
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I just started my 2002 LS1 last week. As we all know there is no way to prime a LS1, but they make what they call leak detector tanks...... It kinda looks like a little air tank. To use it you take out you oil sending unit and screw this hose fitting in where your sender goes, but to do so you have to remove the intake, but you put a qaurt of oil in this tank ans 50psi of air and this sends oil pressuer all thru your motor... I did this and I stated my motor and as soon as i cranked it I had 60 psi of oil pressure.....
You might try that
You might try that
03-19-2008, 08:16 PM
#10
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did you put new bearings in the motor, lifters, did you put your oil galley plug back in it???? What all did you put new in you motor and did you tear it compleatly down...
03-19-2008, 08:18 PM
#11
Is it possible the sending unit is just bad? When I did my cam swap I spun the motor over for about 10 seconds, but it never made any oil pressure, so I just hooked up the coil packs, said a prayer, fired it, and it shot right up to 60psi. Also I would never want to buy a used oil pump. Thats one of those things that I would just rather spend the money on new.
03-19-2008, 08:43 PM
#12
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I would recommend rechecking the pickup tube o-ring. That thing is very easily mispositioned or pinched upon installation. If that's OK, I would suspect the pump. I replaced the cam retainer plate (comes with seal...you can't get separately from GM) too as I didn't want to leave anything to chance.
03-19-2008, 09:05 PM
#13
I got the pump from a board member. I was told it had less than 10k miles on it. The pump was very clean when I got it.
I don't think that the sending unit would be bad. It worked fine before the cam change.
I didn't rebuild the whole engine. I only changed what was stated above.
I guess I will check the o-ring again. And if that isn't it, I will order a new pump.
Thanks,
SBP
I don't think that the sending unit would be bad. It worked fine before the cam change.
I didn't rebuild the whole engine. I only changed what was stated above.
I guess I will check the o-ring again. And if that isn't it, I will order a new pump.
Thanks,
SBP
03-19-2008, 11:43 PM
#14
Suspect #1 - o-ring is pinched
Suspect #2 - something is wrong with the oil pump
What timing chain, was it a double? If so, did you correctly install the shim where the oil comes out of the pump? Someone recently installed this wrong and had a similar problem.
Did you check the seal on the cam retainer plate, was it in good shape?
Suspect #2 - something is wrong with the oil pump
What timing chain, was it a double? If so, did you correctly install the shim where the oil comes out of the pump? Someone recently installed this wrong and had a similar problem.
Did you check the seal on the cam retainer plate, was it in good shape?
03-20-2008, 05:03 AM
#16
I got the pump from a board member. I was told it had less than 10k miles on it. The pump was very clean when I got it.
I don't think that the sending unit would be bad. It worked fine before the cam change.
I didn't rebuild the whole engine. I only changed what was stated above.
I guess I will check the o-ring again. And if that isn't it, I will order a new pump.
Thanks,
SBP
I don't think that the sending unit would be bad. It worked fine before the cam change.
I didn't rebuild the whole engine. I only changed what was stated above.
I guess I will check the o-ring again. And if that isn't it, I will order a new pump.
Thanks,
SBP
04-02-2008, 06:35 PM
#17
Well got my car back going. I guess it was a bad O-ring. Put a new one in and finally got it together and started it today and all was good.
The harmonic balancer was a bitch. I ended up buying a bolt about 10 inches long, a nut, and some washers. It worked just like the tool that is advertised on here but was only about 8 bucks for all the stuff.
When installing a double roller timing set, you have to be extra careful with the O-ring to be sure it stays on the bottom of the tube. Or you can be like me and taking it apart again. I have a Procharger and a lot more has to come off than normal.
But Go figure, the O-ring. Now I can answer questions on doing this. Not that bad other than the balancer and the pickup tube.
SBP
The harmonic balancer was a bitch. I ended up buying a bolt about 10 inches long, a nut, and some washers. It worked just like the tool that is advertised on here but was only about 8 bucks for all the stuff.
When installing a double roller timing set, you have to be extra careful with the O-ring to be sure it stays on the bottom of the tube. Or you can be like me and taking it apart again. I have a Procharger and a lot more has to come off than normal.
But Go figure, the O-ring. Now I can answer questions on doing this. Not that bad other than the balancer and the pickup tube.
SBP
04-02-2008, 11:30 PM
#18
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Well got my car back going. I guess it was a bad O-ring. Put a new one in and finally got it together and started it today and all was good.
The harmonic balancer was a bitch. I ended up buying a bolt about 10 inches long, a nut, and some washers. It worked just like the tool that is advertised on here but was only about 8 bucks for all the stuff.
When installing a double roller timing set, you have to be extra careful with the O-ring to be sure it stays on the bottom of the tube. Or you can be like me and taking it apart again. I have a Procharger and a lot more has to come off than normal.
But Go figure, the O-ring. Now I can answer questions on doing this. Not that bad other than the balancer and the pickup tube.
SBP
The harmonic balancer was a bitch. I ended up buying a bolt about 10 inches long, a nut, and some washers. It worked just like the tool that is advertised on here but was only about 8 bucks for all the stuff.
When installing a double roller timing set, you have to be extra careful with the O-ring to be sure it stays on the bottom of the tube. Or you can be like me and taking it apart again. I have a Procharger and a lot more has to come off than normal.
But Go figure, the O-ring. Now I can answer questions on doing this. Not that bad other than the balancer and the pickup tube.
SBP
04-03-2008, 05:12 PM
#19
The bolt I used serves the same purpose as the tool you can buy on here. It is the same as the tool you can buy for installing harmonic balancers. Except it is a bolt, washers, and a nut. No bearing. It worked out pretty good. I did use a actual crank bolt to hold the pullies though. The bolt I purchased would stick out almost to the fans. LOL.
SBP
SBP
