cellulis44

iTrader: (11)

yea.. the 08 stang in my sig is GONE.. OUTTA HERE..

Bought a 2000 trans am with 40,000 on the clock.. for cheap.

specs: not a ws6, 6speed t56, monsoon,leather,ttops.2 owners... bone stock right now..

know nothing of a fbod... what does it weigh? what about my stock 10 bolt... what ratio is it? what is my estimated dyno/quater mile?

what are some of the first things I should change?

already planning on pulling (or lowering...) the motor for a forged 383 tsp sb, prc stage 3 heads, and torquer v.3... and 4.10's on a eaton.

or maybe just slapping some prc 2.5 5.3's on it with a torquer and seeing what I get...

estimates on both setups and suggestions welcome. got plenty out of the mustang to play with it.

oh yea where do I get a ram air hood?

ezzlez28

iTrader: (21)

If you are getting that motor, rip out that 10 bolt before it decides to

Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

3500 or so I believe. Welcome aboard!! Be careful of your heads/cam choice, it can make for a top end ripping no street torque having set up. You'll want a rear end for sure. Check out Midwest Chassis' thread in the drivetrain section. A good clutch/flywheel and slave are in your immediate future along with a Pro 5.0. I have a LS7 clutch kit that seems to be doing ok. Very daily driver friendly. First mods that are easy and inexpensive: SLP lid (on sale in sponsor section $75), Summit UD pulley, Hooker or other good catback ($330 in sponsor section), longtubes- pick your choice. I recommend something that has a matching good quality Y pipe, like ARH. You know how the list goes on and on and on......

teke184

iTrader: (5)

yeah figure the weight is right around 3500 depending on options. stock should run 12.90-13.3 depending on track, traction, and driver.

the 10bolt rear end has 3.42 gears stock...all 6 speeds came with that ratio. the rear ends are notoriously weak, especially when you start putting higer ratio gears in like 4.10s. the teeth get smaller and break much easier. somehow i've managed to keep my stock 3.42s intact with 400rwhp and a race clutch, i even had 315 DRs for 2 yrs. granted i never really drag raced it...just hard on the street. i installed the bearing stud kit and a rear end girdle to help keep it together, seems to have helped.


with those heads and the torquer or similar cam...tuned w/ boltons...you should be sitting pretty at 430-440rwhp and ~400rw torque.

the 383 should be upwards of 475rwhp and 450rw torque depending on how good the heads are

F8L_LS1

iTrader: (5)

do a lot of research. this board is filled with info.
as stated the 383 build will net around 475/450 rwhp/tq and the H/C combo will be around 430/410 (numbers vary).

first off, you need to think of what you are going to do with it. DD? weekend warrior? Track queen? we dont know what your goals are for this car in the OP.

if i could start all over, my first mods would be suspension. wheel hop is your enemy and will make quick work of your 10bolt. check out suspension section for more info.

since this is internal section. look into head/cam choices. what do you want out of it? mid range car or all top end?

f8l