cost to change reluctor
03-10-2010, 05:21 PM
#1
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cost to change reluctor Can someone give me a ballpark figure that would be reasonable for changing the 58 tooth reluctor to a 24 on a L92 crate engine (not in a car)?
How about recommendations for someone to do it in the Denver CO area?
Thanks
How about recommendations for someone to do it in the Denver CO area?
Thanks
03-10-2010, 07:04 PM
#3
FormerVendor
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We have the Ligenfelter boxes in stock. It should be cheaper and safer than having someone tear apart your brand new crate motor and voiding any warranty you might have. PM me if you are interested. I have plenty in stock.
FWIW, I charge $50 to change the reluctor if you walk the crank in the front door to me. It takes a good half an hour to do when you include heating the reluctor to remove it and the new one to install it. I also TIG it in place with a couple of small tacks just for insurance.
Thanks,
Shane
FWIW, I charge $50 to change the reluctor if you walk the crank in the front door to me. It takes a good half an hour to do when you include heating the reluctor to remove it and the new one to install it. I also TIG it in place with a couple of small tacks just for insurance.
Thanks,
Shane
03-11-2010, 11:44 AM
#4
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Reluctor wheel change (for an aircraft) Thanks for the replies. I'll give you a little background for wanting to switch reluctors.
The engine is going on the front of an aircraft. I've asked other questions in the past and this board always has some guys that are both knowledgeable and helpful, so here I am again...
I've thought about the Lingenfelter box, but I don't really know much about it. From the response above, it might be sensitive to heat, which is a deal breaker. I'm trying to eliminate as many potential failure points as I can. If someone can explain how it works, I might still consider it.
I don't want to use a drive by wire throttle simply because it provides another possible failure point....I know it's very reliable, but I also know there have been failures and that some of the results for different problem modes involve essentially having the engine shut down. Not good. If I DID decide the DBW is acceptable, it would solve most of the issues I have in that I could just buy a GMPP controller kit for a LS3 and be done with it. So I haven't completely ruled out the DBW, but I'm looking in other directions.
I understand the MEFI marine type controllers can be used with a cable throttle and retain the 58 tooth wheel, so I'm considering it as well.
Unfortunately, most of the stand alone solutions with cable throttles require either the 28 tooth reluctor or the Lingenfelter box. I guess you could say I haven't made up my mind but am still looking at different ways to go.
The engine is a new L92 crate engine, complete. I've changed the intake to LS3/L76. I don't plan to use the VVT, but probably won't change the cam and will just leave it in the default position, since all the dyno charts comparing VVT with non VVT show nothing really changes until almost 5000 rpm. This engine will never see over 5000rpm, so VVT is irrelevant. The VVT high vol oil pump is good since the reduction drive to the prop is oiled with engine oil and will require a couple of pressurized oil lines. I have a GTO oil pan, but may use a G8 pan for the extra volume. I haven't removed the engine from the wooden crate so I'm not sure what pan it has from the factory. Depending on what pan it has already, I may not change it.
I'd like to keep the truck accessory setup, and it looks like the TB will clear the LS3 intake...good news. All I have to do is figure out what it will take to eliminate the power steering pump and if I'll need an idler where it was. I may end up putting the propeller governor in the PS position, which would solve that problem.
I'd really like to avoid opening up the engine any more than necessary, so if I can avoid changing the reluctor I will. Unfortunately, I have to decide which way is the best as far as not introducing problems while trying to eliminate other problems.
The engine is going on the front of an aircraft. I've asked other questions in the past and this board always has some guys that are both knowledgeable and helpful, so here I am again...
I've thought about the Lingenfelter box, but I don't really know much about it. From the response above, it might be sensitive to heat, which is a deal breaker. I'm trying to eliminate as many potential failure points as I can. If someone can explain how it works, I might still consider it.
I don't want to use a drive by wire throttle simply because it provides another possible failure point....I know it's very reliable, but I also know there have been failures and that some of the results for different problem modes involve essentially having the engine shut down. Not good. If I DID decide the DBW is acceptable, it would solve most of the issues I have in that I could just buy a GMPP controller kit for a LS3 and be done with it. So I haven't completely ruled out the DBW, but I'm looking in other directions.
I understand the MEFI marine type controllers can be used with a cable throttle and retain the 58 tooth wheel, so I'm considering it as well.
Unfortunately, most of the stand alone solutions with cable throttles require either the 28 tooth reluctor or the Lingenfelter box. I guess you could say I haven't made up my mind but am still looking at different ways to go.
The engine is a new L92 crate engine, complete. I've changed the intake to LS3/L76. I don't plan to use the VVT, but probably won't change the cam and will just leave it in the default position, since all the dyno charts comparing VVT with non VVT show nothing really changes until almost 5000 rpm. This engine will never see over 5000rpm, so VVT is irrelevant. The VVT high vol oil pump is good since the reduction drive to the prop is oiled with engine oil and will require a couple of pressurized oil lines. I have a GTO oil pan, but may use a G8 pan for the extra volume. I haven't removed the engine from the wooden crate so I'm not sure what pan it has from the factory. Depending on what pan it has already, I may not change it.
I'd like to keep the truck accessory setup, and it looks like the TB will clear the LS3 intake...good news. All I have to do is figure out what it will take to eliminate the power steering pump and if I'll need an idler where it was. I may end up putting the propeller governor in the PS position, which would solve that problem.
I'd really like to avoid opening up the engine any more than necessary, so if I can avoid changing the reluctor I will. Unfortunately, I have to decide which way is the best as far as not introducing problems while trying to eliminate other problems.
04-18-2010, 11:42 AM
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58 to 24x reluctor wheel Did you ever find anyone to change your reluctor wheel? I am finding more people complaining about using the module.The company claim the problem was fixed(heat break down) but can only give a 1 year warranty on the box!
