Strokedcamaroz28

im sure that they do great work but two say that there are only two companies who opinion matters is ridiculous.

Strokedcamaroz28

was the block iron or aluminum, and what sleeves were used?

Millenium Z06

Aluminum LS2 Block with Ductile Iron sleeves

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

Correct on the $2K for sleeving. That includes stress relief of the block, decking, boring within honing range and cutting rod notches in the bottom. Bore size range is 4.125" to 4.185" with max. recommended bore size of 4.155" for boost or nitrous.

I try to keep new 5.3 aluminum castings in stock. These are the strongest of the factory castings. Out at the moment but more on order. Current price is $725 for the casting.

I doubt the sleeves will crack without a gap. The gap is there for ease of installation by folks doing the install without the benefit of CNC which is one of LA sleeves advertising points. Without CNC it would be nearly impossible to hold the +- a half thou tolerance on bore to bore centerline that is what abutting flats require. Another problem is without flood coolant during machining the block expands due to heating of the casting during machining and will contract upon cooling closing up the bore to bore centerline. I have seen blocks six thou out of spec that were machined dry. The flats are jammed against one another forcing the sleeves out of round.

By the way, I have sleeved thousands of blocks going back to the late 1970's. Yes I have been doing this longer than most of you guys have been alive. From Jr Dragster (doing a couple for Antron Brown) to V10 Viper V12 Ferrari and everything in between. Check out Darton's web site on tech data. I wrote most of the installation guides. Check out my web site while you are at it.

The photo I attached was an LS7 aluminum block not iron.

Steve

Millenium Z06

If I did it again I'd probably go with a RED sleeved block for the "wet sleeve" feature. That should allow it to run cooler than the ERL dry sleeve.

03EBZ06

Hey I was racing a 68 Nova in late 70s. Kids today don't know the difference in experience and thd number of posts on a forum.

Now are you saying blocks you sleeve will not end up with oil water mixes ?

You have to admit is much easier today then way back

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

There is a chance of porosity in the casting that is opened up during the sleeving process. I see this more in import blocks. I have been fortunate not to have any problems with come backs due to leaks. Attention to detail, holding tolerance - knowing what that tolerance needs to be and using proper installation techniques to insure the sleeves are seated and won't drop on engine start has everything to do with the success of the installation.

I install the Darton dry liners with a sealer, Loctite 515 on the lower area of the bore to help guard against leaks. The sleeves are made with grooves in the lower body which act as virtual o rings with the Loctite. This also doubles to help keep oil from migrating up between the block and sleeve from the crankcase. Even then I highly recommend three GM coolant system sealing tablets be put in the radiator of any sleeved block as insurance against leaks.

Steve

KiwiKid

Hi SC,

Good question, as you would have observed in my post on finding water in the oil, we hot pressure tested our RSH block, plus the new LSX-LS7 cylinder heads, and we noticed tiny bubbles of water coming up the stud and the nut, which is why we used Loctite's liquid gasket around each head stud.

However, we also noticed beads of water seeping from the gasket interface between the cylinder bores, and if you think about it, the only way that water can come from under the gasket at that particular point is from the crack between the sleeves.

The sleeves sit on a register [step] and obviously, despite the fact that the sleeves is pushed in [or may because of that] there is a potential leak path between the Aluminium bore and the ductile iron sleeve. I say potential because once the sleeves are in you don't know if you have a "leaker" or not until you hot pressure test it, and hands up, who goes to this time and effort?

To eliminate any possible leak we now scrape clean the gap and fill it with 2 pot epoxy, and scrape flat etc, this eliminates any leak path and also gives the gasket full support across the gap. Just as we now "ring seal" every stud.

Yes it is a "Belt and Braces" approach, but better to be safe than sorry least in my book.

Cheers,

Mark.

Vegas02ta

iTrader: (5)

Bravo guys that's how the pros do it .

Strokedcamaroz28

what do you mean?

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

My Sleeved block didn't have any gaps either. Ive been running it since 2008. not from ERL or RED

I would really listen to Red im pretty sure has designed a few sleeves for blocks.
I think i talked to dart in 2007 and they said they were sending him sleeves to check out before they ran a bunch off

Tuskyz28

I really dig when Steve goes into the little details about sleeving blocks

2QWK4RU 06 GOAT

iTrader: (1)

Good info.

Strokedcamaroz28

got the cam in today, we decided to go with a mild cam....

266 275 720/670 112lsa..


very excited

SHovV

iTrader: (1)

Hyd or solid?

Strokedcamaroz28

hydraulic

blackonblacksls

iTrader: (1)

Seems like a waste to use such a big hydraulic cam in a all out race car type build.

Strokedcamaroz28

solid rollers dont make that much more power than modern hydraulic rollers.... this was proven by several companies including gm high tech as well as the shop whos building my motor... gained only 15 hp by switching from hydraulic to solid.... in one test in the first article the hydraulic made pretty much the same power as the solid in their 440

http://www.lsxtv.com/tech-stories/en...f7bc05556a75f4

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/090...ft-comparison/

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

If that was the case, they would stop making them. Solid roller will always make more power, more rpm regardless. Check out the Fastest NA list on the forum. 9 out of 10 they are running SR.

03EBZ06

Piston speed, airflow = hp. Too many don't configure the engines to breathe on top.