i cant win...its pushing water again...
#1
i cant win...its pushing water again...
well i finally decided to go through a bottle over the last 2 days. its the first bottle ive ran thru it except for when we were tuning it on the dyno. well after my last run the low coolant light came on. so i let it cool down over night then checked it this am and sure enough it was down about 20 oz. i dont know why they hell its doing it again. my old motor i had head bolts and way too much timing and just chalked it up to that but this one i did my homework i thought. its got head studs that i torques down 5 lbs more then arp recommends, and the surface of the block and the heads was brand new and very very clean. also used a new gm mls gasket. timing is at 20*, 200 shot with c16 in the dedicated tank. so wtf gives?! im just about fed up with this crap and am ready to yank it all off and say the heck with it.
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93 in the main tank? if so, it just doesnt work that way. you mix large amout on 93 octain to run the car, you spray a small amout of race gas threw a cell, your lucky if your octain is 100 at the very very best. thats no good with 20* now that its pushed water im going to say it wont stop, the gaskets should be changed imo
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Tommy sorry to hear about that. I know what you have been thru, and you work hard to have a very nice ride
Who did the tune on it? Did you tune it for the 200 or something smaller?
Who did the tune on it? Did you tune it for the 200 or something smaller?
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Did you lossen and re tq the heads 3 times then again after a heat cycle? you have 2-3 degrees to much for the 200 but that shouldn't push water like that. We always run our cooland 1/2 qt low the rapid expansion will push that mcuh into the tank. never had any heat issues like that either. somethings not right to push water on the 200 shot. does it do it on the motor?
#10
93 in the main tank? if so, it just doesnt work that way. you mix large amout on 93 octain to run the car, you spray a small amout of race gas threw a cell, your lucky if your octain is 100 at the very very best. thats no good with 20* now that its pushed water im going to say it wont stop, the gaskets should be changed imo
plugs are ngk 7 heat range with the standard gap. compression is at 11.5:1. iw ill back the timing back a couple degrees tomorrow and see what happens from there i guess. i tried it one more time today and it didnt do it but i only hit it once. im also thinking about putting a ngk 8 heat range in there.
no i didnt retorque the heads an i have no plans too. its too much work for the limited amount i use the nitrous. ill just take it off. if it were a race car fine but its just my street car. and no it doesnt do it on the motor.
and yes it was tuned on the 200 shot and everything looked fine on the data logger. ill log it again next time i run it on the street.
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im willing to bet if you put some 104 in the tank with 18* your problem will be soved, and as shiz said, re tq the heads is a big factor, you said you did your home work etc but if you dont do everything by the book, be prepared to have issues
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Did you lossen and re tq the heads 3 times then again after a heat cycle? you have 2-3 degrees to much for the 200 but that shouldn't push water like that. We always run our cooland 1/2 qt low the rapid expansion will push that mcuh into the tank. never had any heat issues like that either. somethings not right to push water on the 200 shot. does it do it on the motor?
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Damn really hoped you wouldn't have anymore problems don't rip everything off though...
I have a question about using the 93 and then C16 in the standalone.
so basically the stand alone is just to make sure you have enough fuel system for the juice, but not the right octane? since it mixes with the main tank.
for a street car running race gas in the main tank + C16 won't that burn up 02 sensors? and won't the tune be affected if he puts race gas in the main tank?
if you tune in speed density it doesn't matter right since your not using the 02 sensors?
also Shiz- what is the proper torquing procedure of the head studs?
Chad
I have a question about using the 93 and then C16 in the standalone.
so basically the stand alone is just to make sure you have enough fuel system for the juice, but not the right octane? since it mixes with the main tank.
for a street car running race gas in the main tank + C16 won't that burn up 02 sensors? and won't the tune be affected if he puts race gas in the main tank?
if you tune in speed density it doesn't matter right since your not using the 02 sensors?
also Shiz- what is the proper torquing procedure of the head studs?
Chad
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Have you thought about feeding the shot in through a progressive unit? That should ease the rapid spike in cylinder pressure created by a full hit right off the bat.
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Been there done this!!!First off i chased my tail with pushing water and went through all off the things mention aboved retorque heads l19 head studs even trying to go with copper head gaskets and was the worst thing i ever did.Some guys seem to have good luck with there setups and some motors like mine seemed like it was just a lost cause.There was a post a while back about what causes these motors to push water.From what i have experanced is that the blocks are weak and some blocks are more than likely thinner than others, That is why some guys will experiance pushing water on lower power levels than others.We took my old 408 motor that was 6.0 iron block pushed water all the time.We took the motor and hard blocked half the water jackets to see if it was a head issue lifting or was it a thin no siamese bore issue.We put the motor back together and through 300 shot at it at the track and never pushed a drop.I never rule out tune ups that were mentioned but i really get a sour taste about all the crap i went through and would never want anyone to deal with what i went through.My cure was the LSX block!!!