ABS inop and brake light on after rear swap
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ABS inop and brake light on after rear swap
OK I did a search and found no help. I just put a complete rear from a 2002 in my 1998. My old set up was 3.42 and new rear has Richmond 4.10s. Both are 3 channel. We programmed it for the gears with HP tuners and the lights are still on. I used the sensor and all brakes and backing plates from the old rear, so anything related to the ABS should have been swapped over.
The abs inop light comes on imediately when I start the car up and never goes out. I have reset it 3 times and it comes on immediately after starting it up again.
Any ideas? Not effecting any driving that I can tell, but I havent had to lock em up yet either.
Any help is appreciated.
The abs inop light comes on imediately when I start the car up and never goes out. I have reset it 3 times and it comes on immediately after starting it up again.
Any ideas? Not effecting any driving that I can tell, but I havent had to lock em up yet either.
Any help is appreciated.
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Stupid question but when you take the back off the rear is the wheel bolted to the ring gear? And how does the magnet pickup look? I thought 4 channel was the 2 wheels on either rear axle tube and 3 channel was the toothed wheel inside the rear.
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The relucter wheel is in the pumpkin. The sensor mounts on top and there is only one and it plugs right into the same plug cluster as the fuel pump and all. I allready took that out and made sure it was clean and was not damaged during the swap, and it looks like new.
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Alright when you said you used the brakes and backing plates that told me you had a 4 channel since it really doesn't matter besides the placement of the e-brake since the brakelines still reach to either a 3 - 4 channel. If the only things you touched were from the connection cluster back I'd say that either you have a bad connection, bad magnetic pickup, or messed up ring inside the pumpkin. Ohm the wiring harnes out and check the ring inside the pumpkin. If those both look good then I'd say you have a bad pickup magnet or you don't have it sitting flush on the top of the pumpkin.
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Alright when you said you used the brakes and backing plates that told me you had a 4 channel since it really doesn't matter besides the placement of the e-brake since the brakelines still reach to either a 3 - 4 channel. If the only things you touched were from the connection cluster back I'd say that either you have a bad connection, bad magnetic pickup, or messed up ring inside the pumpkin. Ohm the wiring harnes out and check the ring inside the pumpkin. If those both look good then I'd say you have a bad pickup magnet or you don't have it sitting flush on the top of the pumpkin.
I think it is the pickup magnet not being right or been damaged in install, but John says it looks like new.
If I can pull the codes with HPTuners, I will stop by his house tonite and do that......
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Alright when you said you used the brakes and backing plates that told me you had a 4 channel since it really doesn't matter besides the placement of the e-brake since the brakelines still reach to either a 3 - 4 channel. If the only things you touched were from the connection cluster back I'd say that either you have a bad connection, bad magnetic pickup, or messed up ring inside the pumpkin. Ohm the wiring harnes out and check the ring inside the pumpkin. If those both look good then I'd say you have a bad pickup magnet or you don't have it sitting flush on the top of the pumpkin.
I mentioned it was a 3 channel in the first post, cause it doesnt make much sense to me. Not much to go bad here. I pulled out the sensor and cleaned it, the harness is only about 12" long and only 2 plugs, one on each end. It is flush on top of the pumpkin. The pickup looks perfect, as does the ring. It cant be the ring, or it would only come on after I drove it. It comes on immediately on starting it up.
Could I have triggered something by starting it up without hooking that up? I wanted to make sure the fuel pump worked before I installed the rear(I put a Racetronix pump in while I had the rear out). If so would this have triggered something that cant be cleared by disconnecting the battery??? If that is the case, how do I clear it??
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The first thing I would do would be to measure resistance on that sensor. If you don't have one, just swing by tomorrow. The second thing would be to take the car to AutoZone and let them read the codes, and then clear them. We need to get an OBD2 code reader. I may do that.....
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i had a similar prob after doing a dyno run at a dyno day. check teh wiring harness connections every where. i unplugged and plugge dmine in and SHAZAAAAAM fixed. yes u can scan with HPT. go to teh scanner module. it steh lil lightening bolt looking guy on there as far as an icon wil look for it.