Word to the Wise: Don't just let anyone put your new motor in!
01-27-2009, 09:53 PM
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Word to the Wise: Don't just let anyone put your new motor in! Well, I finally discovered why my engine was losing timing and firing out of order at 5200-5600rpm on almost every pull or run on the street. The crank thrust bearing was scarred pretty nicely and the crank had a bit of wear from the crank moving back and forth. After the motor was pulled out from under the car and the shop put it on a engine stand you could easily see that by grabbing the crank pulley or flex plate and pulling/pushing it was seriously moving more than a few thousandths.
fyi, the new motor has about 1000-2000 miles on it.
Causes of this were either a faulty engine builder not checking the end play before shipping the motor, which was not the case since it is well known that my engine builder checks that and this problem took a bit of time to come into question. The most likely cause is a flexplate or torque converter being installed too tight to the crank and putting additional stress on the thrust bearing. The last potential cause aside from abnormal bearing wear or faulty building is related to shipping or the engine being on the floor. Improper lubrication after installation...not likely.
My issue was likely the improper installation of a torque converter and an error of not putting a new rear main seal in and a different tech pulling the flex plate and converter/trans off and replacing the rear cover seal then putting things on incorrectly. The shop is no longer in business, but this has cost me a bit of $$ to fix.
Just wanted to share my story so that some folks realize that working with experience is of much greater importance than working with price. Live and learn... and the wallet is the hardest way to learn a lesson, but one you never forget!
fyi, the new motor has about 1000-2000 miles on it.
Causes of this were either a faulty engine builder not checking the end play before shipping the motor, which was not the case since it is well known that my engine builder checks that and this problem took a bit of time to come into question. The most likely cause is a flexplate or torque converter being installed too tight to the crank and putting additional stress on the thrust bearing. The last potential cause aside from abnormal bearing wear or faulty building is related to shipping or the engine being on the floor. Improper lubrication after installation...not likely.
My issue was likely the improper installation of a torque converter and an error of not putting a new rear main seal in and a different tech pulling the flex plate and converter/trans off and replacing the rear cover seal then putting things on incorrectly. The shop is no longer in business, but this has cost me a bit of $$ to fix.
Just wanted to share my story so that some folks realize that working with experience is of much greater importance than working with price. Live and learn... and the wallet is the hardest way to learn a lesson, but one you never forget!
01-27-2009, 11:30 PM
#5
Seen that happen before...
I built an SR20 for a SEMA car last year, the owner of the car and my boss came to me with a chunk of the thrust bearing. It felt like I got punched in the gut! Luckily my boss watched me measure thrust at .006".
Turned out upon installation, the crankshaft was thrust forward against the thrust bearing, tearing it up in a matter of minutes...
I built an SR20 for a SEMA car last year, the owner of the car and my boss came to me with a chunk of the thrust bearing. It felt like I got punched in the gut! Luckily my boss watched me measure thrust at .006".
Turned out upon installation, the crankshaft was thrust forward against the thrust bearing, tearing it up in a matter of minutes...
01-28-2009, 08:37 AM
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Thank goodness the C5 & C6 have the torque converter in the back of the car so you don't typically see this problem unless you end up with a bad clutch install.
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01-28-2009, 06:08 PM
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If the converter is not fully seated or clearance checked prior to installation, this can and will in all likelyhood happen as the bellhousing bolts are tightened. As stated above, the only other real chance of this happening is a ballooned converter.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck...
Shane
Sorry to hear about your bad luck...
Shane
01-31-2009, 11:15 AM
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starting the car with the converter not installed properly or even the added pressure that causes wear on the pump and also the thrust bearing is what happened.
It is obvious as HKE checks the end play on every engine it makes.
Due to the fact that there was a problem with the rear seal and the transmission was removed, I have a feeling as well as someone from the shop working on the car that the pump went out in the tranny in the process and they had to replace it. If not there can only be two people to blame, the shop or the builder...... and what could the builder have done wrong? Not likely the builder as much as the installation.
Who else has had end play issues from crank walk?
It is obvious as HKE checks the end play on every engine it makes.
Due to the fact that there was a problem with the rear seal and the transmission was removed, I have a feeling as well as someone from the shop working on the car that the pump went out in the tranny in the process and they had to replace it. If not there can only be two people to blame, the shop or the builder...... and what could the builder have done wrong? Not likely the builder as much as the installation.
Who else has had end play issues from crank walk?
02-01-2009, 08:57 PM
#14
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i also have installed a ton of transmissions and torque convertors and i would have to say that you would know if there was a problem when installing, the torque convertor would be hard against the flywheel and unable to spin free if it was too far forward. ive never seen or heard of a problem like that from installation of the engine or torque convertor. i would lean more on the builder than the installer. even though its a big name builder doesnt mean they dont make mistakes.
02-01-2009, 09:15 PM
#16
I agree that even builder make mistakes. But you can also tell if this was the builder or install error. Also if the installer had an aprentice working with him and trusted him with a easy task. The person probley didnt know that aftermarket convertors have tighter tolerances. And thought it was on when transmission went on. Or the trans tiped foward allowing the vertor shift foward and didnt give it a second thout. One question should also be asked is how does the flexplate look? Runout? and the input and frontpump assy look? If installed wrong on the trans wouldnt the inside of the convertor be messed up?
02-02-2009, 01:56 PM
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My friend did it on his s10 but I caught it before he went to fire it up he wasn't very happy about pulling the trans on the ground after we were almost done. If the converter is not installed correctly the engine will feel rough when turned over by hand or wont turn at all by hand which most would notice before completing an engine install.
02-03-2009, 12:43 PM
#19
I too have been part of an improper converter install, not my doing but I helped lift trans in place. He didnt make sure the converter was fully seated and back as far as it would go on the splines of the input shaft. When it was installed it bound up and was very tight against the flex plate. He made it as far as trying to drive the car away, but car found out quick he had smashed the pump in the trans when he tightened down the bell housing bolts on the install. Make sure you always turn that converter on the trans and check more then once that that thing is fully seated. I'd deff be talking with the installer as they are to blame in this not the engine builder.