BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

Is it a 3.750 Crank, 5.7 rod, and a .030 piston?
The cranks in these motors are the same as the late model sbc's right? 1 piece real main seal. rods and pistons are the same as well right?

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

383's yes for the most part are what you described..... however there are some other details yiou left out...

The block is like you said done with a .030 overbore. So the piston you will run will be a 4.030" piston. Stock is 4.000".

A 383 can be done with 5.7", 5.85" or a 6" rod depending on what piston design you select. Usually you go with the longest rod you can get away with and still satisfy your particular desire for a piston (dome height, ring land thickness, etc).

The 383 is done with a 1 piece real main seal crank that has a 3.75" stroke. Stock stroke is a 3.48" stroke. with the added stroke you'll need block clearancing done to some of the bottoms of the cylinders to clear the rod bolts when the crank is swinging around...

But the rods and pistons technically aren't the same since no stock piston in a 4th gen is a 4.030" diameter..... they are all 4.000" stock.... rods are 5.7" from the factory but like I said above you can go with any of the three lengths...

BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

Cool. Pretty much everything I thought.

My next question.
My goal is to get 400rwhp N/A, and spray a 200~250 shot. I know I need forged pistons, and I was going to go with forged rods as well. What should I do about my crank? I know forged is always good, but I'm building it on a budget and forged cranks are a bit pricey.
Would I be able to get away with a cast steel crank at around 600rwhp? Or should I bite the bullet and go for a forged crank?

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

If your gonna do that big of a shot, go with a forged crank. No point of getting a cast crank with that big of a shot. and pick up a forged kit, no point of having ur rods, and pistons forged and ur crank no. If u dont wanna spend the extra cash on a forged crank go with the AI 355budget kit. I myself will be purchasing a kit from AI when the money comes through.
http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiP...sCompStar.html

BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

Thats what I figured.
I was going to buy each piece indivually tho.
Save up some cash...buy the crank
Save up some cash...buy the rods
Save up some cash...buy the pistons
and so on...

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

its a PITA to buy it all like that, just save some cash and buy it all at once...

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

yeah look for some deals on a complete rotating assy from one company. you can save a bunch of money doing it like that..... go forged.... you don't have to get like a callies or a lunati crank, nor oliver rods or carillo's etc....

you can get some JE pistons, eagle h-beams and like a Scat crank or eagle crank for some moderate amount and it'll be way stronger than stock.... should easily handle that 400RWHP and an additional 200-250 hp on spray....

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

cast cranks are actually fairly strong, atleast the stocker is

many have hit 600-700 hp on them in 355s

the main weakpoint is the hyperneutic pistons. depending on goals a basic 383 kit (cast crank, basic forged rods, hyperneutic pistons) can satisfy needs, your goals I say could warantee atleast forged pistons. when looking at a kit you need to decide whether or not you're willing to run a small basic circle cam due to some aftermarket rods not clearing a standard base circle cam.

my basic Eagle Kit actually cleared the block and standard base circle cam with zero clearancing

like outlaw said a balanced kit can actually save you alot of hassle, since mallory slugs can be very pricey along with balancing the RT. plus there is no fear of getting a wrong part some where down the road and being stuck with it. when shopping for a kit make sure you look for look one that is 1 piece and internal balance

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

OK, so I didn't think about it till now, but is the reason for going with a stock crank and longer rods so you can rev faster? Because I figure with a longer stroke crank you have a bigger rotation due to the increased stroke. Or am I way off? Here's just a quick M$Paint to better explain my thoughts.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I'm not sure I understand your question...a 383 has to utilize a 3.75" stroke crank. You can one of the three different rod lengths but each will require a different piston configuration. As Outlaw said, you want to go with as long of a rod as you can get away with.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Apparently the pic didn't help :\ I assume that with a longer stroke crank that the distance that the rod's crank end has to travel in a circle is much wider compared to the stock crank. With a smaller circle to travel, the stock crank can rev up faster compared to that of the stroker. But that's just again my theory and that is my question, if what I'm assuming is right.

I suppose my next Q then is why is a longer rod important? From what every has been saying in other threads, is the length of the rod doesn't play a factor in the stroke of the motor, whcih didn't make sense ot me till more recently heh

SickSixSpeed

longer rod=less compression height(piston should be a little lighter because its shorter)

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

longer rods generally lend themselves to better piston to rod ratio. a 6" rod 355 actually has one of the best piston/rod ratio in the business...

the piston/rod ratio being good translates to less side loading of the pistons thereby less friction thereby lower oil temps and better revs.... also the longer the rod the longer the dwell time at top dead center which gives you better complete burn and an overall more efficient motor. the air and fuel is burned more completely cause the piston stays at TDC for a bit longer wiht a longer rod.... make sense???

not to want to send you to a ford site but here is a stroker motors explained site since the above stuff was off the top of my head. this website explains it MUCH more completely with pictures.....

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ker/index2.php

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Just going to say that, the rest is new to me, thanks.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Outlaw answered your second question.

As for your first one, I don't know if this helps...

The more cubes you have, the more power you make, but also, when you change your displacement, you also change where the power is made in your power curve. So while you may not rev your stroker as high as a stock cube motor, you shift your power curve down...so you still make more power.
You also have to understand that hp/cu.in. decreases as displacement increases. With stroker motors, you have increased friction due to increased piston travel due to longer stroke, and the power loss from heavier components (longer crank, longer rods, bigger pistons, etc) that require more power to accelerate. But the idea is that the additional cubes will more than make up for the lower hp/cu.in. ratio and the end result is more hp and gobs of additional torque.

"There is no replacement for displacement"
"When in doubt, punch it out"

riceburnerZ28

iTrader: (20)

bump for great info !

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Actually Outlaw answered my Q, which was really the only Q I had heh I already knew all you had explained since highschool I appreciate it anyways though! As I'm sure someone else may not.

Also, thanks Outlaw for that bit of info

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

No problem homie.....

BlackTA96

iTrader: (3)

Found this combo on strokermotor.com
says it was meant for a sbc but it will work in my LT1 right?
If this kits has a 9.8:1cr on a 68cc chamber, what would it be on a 54cc chamber?

Internal Balanced Part #IB3833

Crank: Eagle 4340 Forged Steel 3.750 Stroke
Pistons: SRP Forged dish 9.8:1 CR w/64cc
Rods: 6.0 4340 Forged Steel H-Beam w/ARP cap bolts
Bearings/Rods & Mains: Clevite 77 'H' bearing
Balancer: SFI approved steel 6 3/4" diameter
Flexplate: SFI approved, 168 teeth
Balance: High performance street/strip,
Piston and rods matched +- 1 gram
This kit will take 200HP of nitrous
11.0 or 12.9 cr pistons available, no extra charge
$1,650.00

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Sounds like a nice package, good price too. Swap the dished pistons for flat tops w/ valve reliefs. The balancer is not compatible and I don't think the flexplate is either, but I'm not sure. If the flexplate is not compatible, you need to find out if it is an internally or externally balanced system, if the former, you need a neutral balanced flexplate, if the latter, you need to get you rotating assembly balanced with your flexplate you are going to use.