Mean87SS

iTrader: (21)

Since I'm really too lazy to find everything, and its really hard to find when the search only works half...

On a 1998 Z28: What is needed to get a FAST 90MM to work?

1 : Can Stock bolts be used, or must you use other bolts, if so what kind?

2 : Can stock intake gaskets be used? or must you use other gaskets, if so what kind?

3 : Can stock fuel rails be used with stock injectors, or must you use others?

4 : Is the stock fuel pressure regulator fine or need to upgrade to something else?

Thanks.

69TA

iTrader: (263)

it's a bolt and go with all the stock stuff you asked about

only thing you need is the round button head bolts for the valley pan.

and o-ring for the tb needs to be a 90mm one unless you got an LS2

Mean87SS

iTrader: (21)

^why are they needed?

where can one get those bolts?

69TA

iTrader: (263)

hardware store they are not expensive.

you need them because the stock ones are square and tall and

could possible crack the bottom of the Fast intake if you tighten it down

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

the FAST comes with everything you need. just buy it and bolt it on the button-head screws for the valley cover are included. the new 92mm FAST's come with all stainless hardware too.

Chris10an

iTrader: (1)

if your going to keep everything else original, you can keep the intake original to. You want feel any dif.

bonestock99

iTrader: (1)

I would buy new gaskets only because they are $26 and cheap insurance! One thing you DO need are the coolant x-over and plugs. TSP sells a kit for around 50. If you go to fast webpage and pull up the instructions you will see what I am talking about.

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

what do you do about the fuel regulator on the drivers side. There is not a bracket mounted on the fast 92mm for it to slide into like on the ls6 intake. Any ideas or can i buy something to install it instead of just letting it lay loose and move around.

Corday

Its not a fuel regulator. Its a Purge solenoid valve for evaporated fuel. The pipe is coming from the fuel-tank and going from the solenoid to the intake manifold. Just strap it to something or use stiff hoses and it wont move anywhere.. It also has an electric connector that is pretty tight, so it wont move that easily.

Smokin00WS6

iTrader: (4)

Do you mean a whole new coolant pipe system, like if you were to upgrade to a LS6 manifold?

Mean87SS

iTrader: (21)

TTT.... are new coolant tubes a MUST?

I would like to get the FAST on this weekend... but dont have the lines.

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

You can use your factory lines. Just have to modify it a little. You can cut the rear section to where its just two little plugs, then have them welded shut. The on the front you have to make a cut on the pipe that connect the front to the rear. Kind of hard to explain, I dont have any pictures but if you search you should find some.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

"if your going to keep everything else original, you can keep the intake original to. You want feel any dif."

if he's gonna run a cam in the future he'll def feel a difference.

i picked up 18hp and 12# on my FAST 90/90


while you can modify the coolant lines as stated above....you're better off using the new ones, just like you use on the LS6 intake.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

For the lines here is what I did because I'm cheap.

On the rear I cut off each of the parts that bolt to the block and flipped them over. Put some silicone and tightened them down. Bam instant block off plates.

On the front I cut it at the pipe that runs under the intake, hammered it closed and soldered it for good measure. Works great.

And bullshit about not feeling a difference. When my car is weighed I can tell you how much I gained, but let's just say if my car weighed 3500 with me in it I gained 20rwhp. I bet the car is closer to 3650 with me in it. Of course I had the ls1 before, but above 4500rpm the car comes alive all over a gain just like it does when the cam builds torque around 3000rpm.

Mean87SS

iTrader: (21)

Thunderstruck, do you have any pictures of what you did? Any better write up?

What are the lines for anyway?

Thanks.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

coolant/steam passages to keep a hot spot or air pocket from collecting in the heads if I'm correct

The tube has 4 corner pieces that bolt to the block. Then tubes that run under the intake. On the back I cut the line that connects the left and right side blocks off of them. I flipped the blocks upside down. This means instead of the hole in the blocks being open to the coolant passage below (on the engine block), the flat top surface now blocks this coolant flow. Now no lines connect the left and right coolant holes in the engine block to each other or the front coolant holes.

On the front the line needs to be there to balance between the heads. There is a line connecting them into each other and y pipes to go under the intake to the rear. I cut the line that runs under the intake about an inch after this Y right before it would enter underneath the intake. To seal this tube so no coolant leaks, I used a hammer to close it well, then used a handheld torch and some solder on this area just to make sure the coolant couldn't seap from the pipe where I smashed it together. You could also use epoxy or jb weld I'm sure, but I was in a hurry and had solder.

Once this is done you have what basically looks like the ls6 crossover pipe but it has a 1 inch Y in the middle that points towards the intake manifold instead of just being straight across.

Sorry I don't have any pictures, but it's pretty simple. I knew there had to be a way so my cheap *** wouldn't have to pay for a ls6 tube. I was going to use a rubber line to connect left to right and delete the Y from the front and back pipes but the tubes are different sizes left to right. I think the way I did it will be lower maintenance and have less chance for leaks anyway though.

Hope this makes it more clear

outlaw012

i put a fast 90mm tb and intake manifold on my 98 camaro and now it idles higher(1200rpm) i have the idle screw turned down is this normal or do i need to get a tuner and program it?

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

it will likely need a tune

1) pull the blade shut and see if its sticking, mine was
2) check for vacuum leaks everywhere
3) does the blade have a hole drilled in it? mine did...plugged it and adjusted the blade screw to let in a touch of air
4) did you use the button head bolts on the valley cover?
5) check around the MAP sensor for leaks, it fits loose

driftpin

I was doing some reading in one of my books and it said there was a way to run them to help cool the #7 cyclinder, which is prone to overheating for some reason unknown to me.

I just bought an LS6 intake and am looking for a complete install guide. The one on ls1howto.com seems to be a bit incomplete.

A lot of posters on here seems to contradict each other statement when it comes to whats what.

Many of the threads I weed through seems I have to go with the majority of answers and hope for the best. Why is it that guys who have absolutely no idea what they are talking about when asked a question feel they need to chime in and take a wild guess. Why not just sit back and wait for the folks knowledgable in the subject asked pipe up, boy it would save a ton of confusion.

Sorry in advance because I know this will **** off some of the people I'm talking about?

Is that the only ls6 intake install guide out there?

Do anyone have a good picture of this Fuel PSI Sending unit that breaks on even the guys who know it breaks easy? I don't want to break mine because I have a dyno tune coming up and don't want to have to cancel it due to breaking it?

Mean87SS

iTrader: (21)

driftpin, maybe your talking about the oil pressure sender? I havent heard of the fp sender breaking...