Went to the dyno today
#1
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Went to the dyno today
I hate the dyno or the dyno hates me.
391.42 RWHP
373.46 Torque
Its strange, my car runs great, has no valve train noise and my butt dyno felt like I picked up 50 hp. I dont get it, I dont care if its a dyno queen but c'mon. Before anyone rags on the heads, keep in mind how low it has dyno'd already. Wish I would have had a stock baseline number.
First dyno tune with 228/230 .588 .592 on a 112 lsa.
LS6 intake, Patriot gold springs, Comp Hi Tek 7.4 push rods.
Yank SS 3200, LG Streets
367.61 Hp---360.16 Tq (netted me a 12.30@112)
Added 5.3 ported/polished , bigger valved, dual spring, ti retainer, 60 cc's,
Arp head studs
391.42 Hp--- 373.46 Tq
Maybe my valve springs are a little over kill? Tuner did say it was pulling a little vacuum, injectors were at 98% duty cycle, was getting enough fuel. My car is really tough to tune, usually takes hours.
Thoughts?
391.42 RWHP
373.46 Torque
Its strange, my car runs great, has no valve train noise and my butt dyno felt like I picked up 50 hp. I dont get it, I dont care if its a dyno queen but c'mon. Before anyone rags on the heads, keep in mind how low it has dyno'd already. Wish I would have had a stock baseline number.
First dyno tune with 228/230 .588 .592 on a 112 lsa.
LS6 intake, Patriot gold springs, Comp Hi Tek 7.4 push rods.
Yank SS 3200, LG Streets
367.61 Hp---360.16 Tq (netted me a 12.30@112)
Added 5.3 ported/polished , bigger valved, dual spring, ti retainer, 60 cc's,
Arp head studs
391.42 Hp--- 373.46 Tq
Maybe my valve springs are a little over kill? Tuner did say it was pulling a little vacuum, injectors were at 98% duty cycle, was getting enough fuel. My car is really tough to tune, usually takes hours.
Thoughts?
#2
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does not look bad but you need at least a 15% leway on the injectors so you dont burn em up, they are at 98%, think its time for some new ones. Take it to the track and comare the results, the dyno might just read low.
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Don't be so hard on your car bro, my 2000 FRC dyno'd 300/300 bone stock.
You got to remember that stalled auto's don't make the dyno numbers that m6's will with the same mods. However those stalled autos usually kick our *** all day long at the track.
Won't say much on the heads, but I'd definatly have waited until I could spend more money and have went a different direction. Heads are definately the mod to go $$$ on vs $ or $$. Your cam isn't very large so you are not going to make killer PEAK numbers, but your under the curve looks quite strong. The fuel might be an issue, are you still running stock inj's ?? 98% DC is cutting it too close in my opinion. Get a bigger injector so they can actually pulse vs basically staying on and just spraying. (That's the way high DC was explained to me, so correct me if I'm wrong) The ls6 intake is nice, but you have to remember the FAST 90, and 92's are out there for our cars, and with porting you could pick up 15 rwhp easily, and probably quite a bit more. LG streets are a great header, but you could've netted a few more with the lg pros. I don't see a catback listed in your sig, so open that sucker up and let her exhale. No ewp, or ud pully, so that's more power left on the table. Do you have the stock air box ? If so invest in a nice CAI. VaraRam may be crappy looking when it comes to quality, but you can't deny the results at the track. Now take my comments with a grain of salt, I am not saying anything negative, your car makes good power for what you have done so far, and keep in mind its a stalled auto, but if you were to finish it and add everything (Ported FAST 92, 90 or 92mm tb, 30# SVO inj's, EWP, UD Pully, lg pros vs streets, bullets catback <very loud>, and a cai) you'd probably pick up another 40 rwhp and 25 rwtq, maybe a little more. Now the next question is are you willing to pay in the range of 4000 or so (minus whatever you get from selling the lg streets, and ls6 intake) for an additional 40 rwhp and 25 rwtq ?? If so by all means break the bank, but your car sounds like a fun DD with a valvetrain thats going to hold up to the size of the cam for many miles with no worries or issues. Forgot something bro, you add that extra hp and tq, and you might have to upgrade other things too, like a built rear end, and those aren't cheap. If you want to go quicker leave the car as is and change the gears to 3.73's but I see you already have 3.42's so I don't know. Good luck and smile next time you light the tires up !!
You got to remember that stalled auto's don't make the dyno numbers that m6's will with the same mods. However those stalled autos usually kick our *** all day long at the track.
Won't say much on the heads, but I'd definatly have waited until I could spend more money and have went a different direction. Heads are definately the mod to go $$$ on vs $ or $$. Your cam isn't very large so you are not going to make killer PEAK numbers, but your under the curve looks quite strong. The fuel might be an issue, are you still running stock inj's ?? 98% DC is cutting it too close in my opinion. Get a bigger injector so they can actually pulse vs basically staying on and just spraying. (That's the way high DC was explained to me, so correct me if I'm wrong) The ls6 intake is nice, but you have to remember the FAST 90, and 92's are out there for our cars, and with porting you could pick up 15 rwhp easily, and probably quite a bit more. LG streets are a great header, but you could've netted a few more with the lg pros. I don't see a catback listed in your sig, so open that sucker up and let her exhale. No ewp, or ud pully, so that's more power left on the table. Do you have the stock air box ? If so invest in a nice CAI. VaraRam may be crappy looking when it comes to quality, but you can't deny the results at the track. Now take my comments with a grain of salt, I am not saying anything negative, your car makes good power for what you have done so far, and keep in mind its a stalled auto, but if you were to finish it and add everything (Ported FAST 92, 90 or 92mm tb, 30# SVO inj's, EWP, UD Pully, lg pros vs streets, bullets catback <very loud>, and a cai) you'd probably pick up another 40 rwhp and 25 rwtq, maybe a little more. Now the next question is are you willing to pay in the range of 4000 or so (minus whatever you get from selling the lg streets, and ls6 intake) for an additional 40 rwhp and 25 rwtq ?? If so by all means break the bank, but your car sounds like a fun DD with a valvetrain thats going to hold up to the size of the cam for many miles with no worries or issues. Forgot something bro, you add that extra hp and tq, and you might have to upgrade other things too, like a built rear end, and those aren't cheap. If you want to go quicker leave the car as is and change the gears to 3.73's but I see you already have 3.42's so I don't know. Good luck and smile next time you light the tires up !!
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It looks like the injectors are a little close to being maxed. My cat back is basically wide open, I have a Vararam in the basement ready for install. No, I dont want to spend 4k more for a little gain. Autos are weird, when it dyno'd 367 Hp I was disappointed until it clicked off a 12.30 pass with shitty 60' and heavy *** wheels. I think its a 12.0-12.01 car prior to heads if I could have launched better. The other issue is cash, I have every mod paid for and never wanted to "charge up" mods. I know its money down the drain if I ever have to sell the car.
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Cheap mod for quickness, get some sticky tires son !!! That will put you into the 11's easy. The VaraRam you got in the basement adds 2-3 mph and cuts a couple tenths too.
You got a good reliable setup man, don't trade reliability for more peak hp.
You got a good reliable setup man, don't trade reliability for more peak hp.
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I had nitto dr's and I spun like hell at the track, but on the street they launch beautifully. All I could say is WTF !!
Ask around, especially the guys cutting 1.4x's what tire they are running.
Ask around, especially the guys cutting 1.4x's what tire they are running.
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Yeah, get rid of those things. They're great for the street as they last forever compared to some other DRs, but if you're tracking the car much they can't compare with MTs and some others out there.
Your car should hit mid-11s if it's full weight with good tires without too much issue. Take a look at my car for comparison of power, ET/trap, and 60'. Mine is also a full-weight, wussy H/C car but I'm an M6 with a heavy drivetrain (12-bolt, 4.10s, MN12 trans, and a 3.5" driveshaft). Power output is probably reading similar on our cars considering, and with your auto/stall you should have no problem putting my track numbers to shame. Autos are just quicker at the track.
My 1/8 numbers are 7.5 @ 92, by the way.
And x3 on getting those injectors swapped out. I wish I knew what the duty cycle on mine were but never got it tested. I'm planning to upgrade the heads/cam down the road and it will require a fuel system upgrade anyways.
Your car should hit mid-11s if it's full weight with good tires without too much issue. Take a look at my car for comparison of power, ET/trap, and 60'. Mine is also a full-weight, wussy H/C car but I'm an M6 with a heavy drivetrain (12-bolt, 4.10s, MN12 trans, and a 3.5" driveshaft). Power output is probably reading similar on our cars considering, and with your auto/stall you should have no problem putting my track numbers to shame. Autos are just quicker at the track.
My 1/8 numbers are 7.5 @ 92, by the way.
And x3 on getting those injectors swapped out. I wish I knew what the duty cycle on mine were but never got it tested. I'm planning to upgrade the heads/cam down the road and it will require a fuel system upgrade anyways.
Last edited by PewterScreaminMach; 03-12-2009 at 11:06 AM.
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Were 1200' above sea level here, I know it doesn't sound like much but it really makes a difference. We had a bunch of guys come down from Jersey for a meet, they couldn't believe how much slower their cars were.
What head/cam are you running?
What head/cam are you running?