(new what tire should I use) M-6
#1
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(new what tire should I use) M-6
I am buying them today and could some help.
MT D/R 275/40R/17 25.7" tall
MT D/R 295/45R/17 27.2 " tall
MT street ET 26X11.50 26.5" tall
All are in stock, and a I am running a stock 10 bolt (for now) with 3.42's
I have been running Nitto 555's But cant cut a good 60' 1.9 the best. 2.2 and 2.3 avg. Wheels are stock 17x9 10 spokes.
Pleases help.
Thanks
MT D/R 275/40R/17 25.7" tall
MT D/R 295/45R/17 27.2 " tall
MT street ET 26X11.50 26.5" tall
All are in stock, and a I am running a stock 10 bolt (for now) with 3.42's
I have been running Nitto 555's But cant cut a good 60' 1.9 the best. 2.2 and 2.3 avg. Wheels are stock 17x9 10 spokes.
Pleases help.
Thanks
Last edited by slow ride 02; 03-24-2009 at 01:52 PM.
#2
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All three of them will break your stock 10 bolt. With 3.42's you'll have to leave off the rev limiter to keep from bogging on it's face. The rpm's will kill a d stock 10 bolt, and leaving to low of RPM would result in complete hook, which would once again break the stock 10 bolt.
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All three of them will break your stock 10 bolt. With 3.42's you'll have to leave off the rev limiter to keep from bogging on it's face. The rpm's will kill a d stock 10 bolt, and leaving to low of RPM would result in complete hook, which would once again break the stock 10 bolt.
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Yeah, any of those with a decent burnout and launch are going to break the 10-bolt pretty quickly. And I agree about the car bogging with the 3.42s unless you really slip the clutch bad (in which case you'll be buying a new clutch very soon). If you're serious about cutting the 60' down, gear the car and work out some suspension. What is your current setup with everything on the car (power mods, suspension mods, etc)? There's no reason you shouldn't be able to cut a 1.7 or at least 1.8 60' with those Nittos.
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Yeah, any of those with a decent burnout and launch are going to break the 10-bolt pretty quickly. And I agree about the car bogging with the 3.42s unless you really slip the clutch bad (in which case you'll be buying a new clutch very soon). If you're serious about cutting the 60' down, gear the car and work out some suspension. What is your current setup with everything on the car (power mods, suspension mods, etc)? There's no reason you shouldn't be able to cut a 1.7 or at least 1.8 60' with those Nittos.
Thanks.
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I understand it all. I have know since the day I bought the car I will need to put a rearend in it sometime. that was 27,000 miles ago. It cant last much longer....LOL
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I'd go M&H tires with a stick car... do a search and you'll find that the M&H will provide a better short time over the MT.
Also, I'd stay away from a DR at the track... you'll need a bias ply... so go with a M&H cheater slick or drag slick. Or if you're dead set on MT go with the ET street or drag (preferebly).
Good luck.
Also, I'd stay away from a DR at the track... you'll need a bias ply... so go with a M&H cheater slick or drag slick. Or if you're dead set on MT go with the ET street or drag (preferebly).
Good luck.
#11
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Ok, here is the deal. If the car never sees cam or head work, a Drag radial (Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial) will work great. I actually bogged using it on a 3.42 rear (12 bolt) witha 5k clutch dump. I was on bolt on power, a Untuned intake, headers, cat back making about 326 rwhp.
I put a cam in with tune and now I am making 380-390 and went up to a 4.10 ratio in the 12 bolt and both my same M/T and Nitto (street use) either bog or blow the tire off.
In the end your going to want to use a Biasply slick. A Street ET is not quite as good as a ET drag but something is better then nothing.
Ultimately your going to break that rear. I just know that two things will happen.
1) a soft launch riding the clutch will eventually fry it but will get a ok 60' and save the rear
2) a 5k clutch dump on the biasply and the rear has a very good chance of breaking, if it doesnt your going to have a awesome 60'
Ultimately it is your money in what you do with it. I would start saving your pennies. Beefed up Ford 8.8's are sometimes a good compromise to a 2300.00 Moser 12 bolt swap.
I put a cam in with tune and now I am making 380-390 and went up to a 4.10 ratio in the 12 bolt and both my same M/T and Nitto (street use) either bog or blow the tire off.
In the end your going to want to use a Biasply slick. A Street ET is not quite as good as a ET drag but something is better then nothing.
Ultimately your going to break that rear. I just know that two things will happen.
1) a soft launch riding the clutch will eventually fry it but will get a ok 60' and save the rear
2) a 5k clutch dump on the biasply and the rear has a very good chance of breaking, if it doesnt your going to have a awesome 60'
Ultimately it is your money in what you do with it. I would start saving your pennies. Beefed up Ford 8.8's are sometimes a good compromise to a 2300.00 Moser 12 bolt swap.
#12
MT 275/40/17. With 3.42's u defn want to keep the smaller tire. Also with the 10 bolt I most certainly would stick with a DR over a bias ply. This will still allow u to be conservative to buy some time for your rear and have a streetable tire with a 1.7-1.8 60ft.
#13
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the et street bias ply will be more forgiving on your rear then the drag radial since it is less likely to get wheel hop.
I have been 1.6's on my stock rear. I upgraded to a 12 bolt since I knew it was a ticking time bomb but never broke the stock 1o bolt with 4.11 gears.
I have been 1.6's on my stock rear. I upgraded to a 12 bolt since I knew it was a ticking time bomb but never broke the stock 1o bolt with 4.11 gears.