b00sted

iTrader: (7)

I'm putting a reverse-manual VB in my th400 soon. Just a few questions...Are any internal modifications needed or can I just bolt it in? It doesn't have a t-brake...I heard there's modifications that need to be made to the drum with trans brakes...But is the standard RMVB a bolt in ordeal?

Also, can I remove the governor completely, or leave it in there, or what? I'm also planning on removing the modulator and installing one of those plugs.


Finally, I need to replace the shifter rod...The piece that the shift lever bolts to. Mine must have stripped at one point, and the current lever was tack welded on by someone. How easily does that rod come out once the valve-body is dropped? I'm guessing I'll have to cut off that lever since it's welded?

FLT

iTrader: (1)

The answer to your questions will really determine the manufacture of the valve body. They seem to have their own ways of doing things and some do more than others. I would strongly following the directions very closely.

As for the shift linkage. With a Th400 the pump normally would be removed in order to do this. Basically there is a finishing nail that holds the linkage in place in the case. You can snip it with a pair of dyke's/side cutters and make it shorter in order to remove it with out removing the pump. Then reinstall what you have left and just bend it a bit so it will stay in place. If your valve body kit requires you to go into the transmissions internals I would just do this repair while the pump is out. Vince

b00sted

iTrader: (7)

I talked to the neighborhood trans guy(Dave Vyhanek if you've heard of him. He basically told me the same thing word for word...Even showed me and actual GM nail. haha.

I also bought the new linkage setup off him so I'll be all set. He said a cotter pin works well too when replacing the nail with the pump still bolted in.


TCI valve body by the way.

b00sted

iTrader: (7)

This TCI valve-body says I need to change the pump's pressure regulator setup to theirs, as well as remove the center cusion seal from the high clutch drum, and remove the second seal from the top of the center support of the second gear clutch pack.

Necessary? The trans is in the car.

b00sted

iTrader: (7)

Well I found out that none of the things I mentioned are necessary to do. My trans guy said it a good idea to do if the trans is o the bench and apart, but not required. The pressure regulator is required in order to up the line pressure and give firmer shifts...But my car already had a worked forward auto valvebody so we figured the regulator spring has already been swapped to the higher pressure one.


I'll never do another valvebody in a vehicle again. Luckily I only had to get one spring and check ball in a hole...I couldn't imagine a valve-body that uses 4 or 5 *****...It was a pain in the *** just keeping the one in there long enough to get the valve body on and lined up.(Oh and I removed the governor tubes...4-5 check ***** plus the governor hard lines? Impossible)

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Actually with a little help from some thick petrolium jelly its not that bad.

b00sted

iTrader: (7)

I tried a little grease after he mentioned that to me. But I was afraid to use too much and the ball wouldn't stick to the spring.

I stuck the gasket to the case, got the spring to stick in the hole, and then put the seperator plate and gasket on the VB and lined it up. I sat the check ball on top of the seperator plate balancing in the hole, and used the jack to raise the VB up slowly and line it up. Worked perfect that way actually...Completely ridiculous method of doing something, but it worked.

Something that took me all day yesterday would have taken about an hour if it was laying upside down on a bench.