KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Here's the story:
Installed a Monster level III, with a new slave, pilot bearing, lightened F/W, and I had my T56 rebuilt. I blead the slave via my hole in the floor once after installation for about 10 minutes. Not knowing what it should feel like, I drove it for about 1k miles. The petal would engage fairly low to the floor, and I would have trouble getting it into 5th gear while moving (always a grind unless you double clutch), and lots of trouble with reverse at a stop. All the other gears just felt notchy. The petal also had some play in it at the top. So, being curious, I blead it some more and viola! It felt great! It felt like a stock clutch, engaging closer to the top, gears shifting like butter! It lasted a day. Next day, same story. Blead it again and nothing.
So, I picked up a mity vac. When I first started the mity vac process I got all excited about some decent sized bubbles that would surface when my wife slowly pressed the clutch in and out. My excitement lasted about 10 minutes, because I was still getting big bubbles and the petal would go from feeling firm, to squishy at the top... back and forth. After I found a spot where the petal felt firm, I took it for a ride and nothing has really changed.

I feel like I've got a freakin leak in it somewhere, and since I've got a stock 98 master cylinder of 135k miles I am pointing the finger at that. Could it be anything else? I havent put the car in the air lately because I moved away from all of my tools.

Is it tick time?.. or time to just keep power bleeding it for an hour strait? I really don't want to drop the cash on a new master, but if thats my problem then thats what I gotta do. It would be nice to have the better shifting charicteristics associated with the tick master cylinder.

bearcatt

iTrader: (41)

The Tick is really the way to go, it just works and pushes way more fluid.

Or you can get a new upgraded GM prebled m/c for about half.

Another cheaper way to go is to get a new non-prebled m/c and bench bleed it. Truthfully it just seems the stock GM m/c's can't really keep up with anything more than a stock LS1, LS6 clutch.


With all the new equipment you've installed and still using the stock 1998 m/c... quite frankly I'm suprised your setup even works at all.



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KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Really? I knew the 98 mc was a but I thought it would at least be up to the task for daily driving. I supose if I've got the mac daddy of clutches then I might as well just make the whole hydraulic assy built like a beast. When I was first pricing clutches I made a big deal over how I couldnt see dropping the extra $ for a master... but I see the difference now. Eh, well I guess I better start saving for a Tick then, huh? Damn it! One more thing to get in the way of my Midwest Rear.

Any more comments?

bearcatt

iTrader: (41)

The general concenses is that 2001+ the hydraulics were updated.
The 2001+ F-bodys also used the C5 Z06 clutches. A little more stout than the pre 2001 F-bodies.

Even current brand new F-body GM hydraulics have a hard time pushing the heavier OEM LS7/LS2 clutches, let alone a clutch like your Monster Stage III.

I know it sucks having to cut into your Midwest Rear budget ... But what's the use of getting a super built rear end if you can't get the power to that super built rear end ?



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KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Because my 10 bolts carrier has about as many teeth as a pirate

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Update: Installed a Tick Master, and it shifts great. No more notchy shifting, easy reverse & 1st from a stand still, firm shifting, powerful engagement. Should finish off my 10 bolt properly

Install was easy. You get what you pay for!